Below is a reply sent to mbangeek about two months ago. It’s not specific to the 8"
Fresnel but should be readily adaptable.:
For starters, the 65Q is only rated for 750w, that could be part of the problem besides just time and age. If you need the output and or want the fake
color temperature, and or want to compete with modern Lekos, get the BTH lamp though the lamp life is not that great - more in
line with a high output
Leko at 300hr, or bring them back down to the BTN 750w lamp.
Not aware of any 250c cable on the market that will have been used on a
Altman fixture. Normally single
conductor 250c
wire type TGGT is a lot less flexible even as an individual
conductor stranded
wire and should not be used for a
fixture whip. Inside a
fixture, fine use it a lot but almost never as a
fixture whip.
More likely it’s a 200c
wire, and if original would have been type SF-2 inside a #0 fiberglass sleeving. If multi-conductor, it’s a replacement
whip. 15years old I still consider new by the way "TYPE=PICT;ALT="At least that’s post
asbestos and they should be grounded.
Ok, here starts the tacks of what you would want to do/look for.
First look at the lamps. If really a 1Kw. BTR, they need to be removed and only used on say 10"
Altman beam projectors. Otherwise if the theater doesn’t have any of them, see if anyone around has them or on-line has them because they are probably not safe to keep at the school or they will find their way back into the fixtures. Obviously let the TD know this intent. Get them out of the school or destroy the lamps.
If giving them away, note the condition of the center contact on the lamp. If corroded either clean it by way of a silicone based fiber grinder wheel, nylon based dremmel wheel (below) or buffing wheel w/o compounds to bring it back to bright brass and get it back to
flat or rounded instead of arched and or overall pitted. Than treat the center contact with electrical contact cleaner (below). Probably won’t be a problem with the rest of the
pre-focus outer (
neutral) part of the shell but you could shine it up some also especially with a brass dremmel wheel also (below). Clean the lamp with
denatured alcohol - put the alcohol in a small spritz spray
bottle, spray on and use a lint free tissue - can probably get a box of it from the photo department or from any camera shop, otherwise raid a first aid kit for some isopropyl alcohol tissues. Wrap the lamp in a second clean tissue tightly once clean and tape it. Than sandwitch or zip lock bag the lamp,
mark the bag as clean. Note while cleaning any other condition problems that might necessitate trashing the lamp.
Next, loosen the
cord grip strain relief two screw
strain relief. Note while doing so if the
strain relief nut loose for later working on it. Unscrew the focus knob and get the lamp/
reflector assembly out of the
fixture.
Take off at least a sampling of the plugs to be aware of how sufficiently or scary the wiring in the plugs is. If one or a few bad, remove all, otherwise if good, tight and in good condition, just observe the rest of the plugs and pull to take apart anything that makes you suspicious.
Plug operations a different part of the to do list and won’t be covered.
Lamp out, first check the inside of the
socket. Any discoloration - probably? Arching, pitting
etc? Check the center spring, should spring as if a spring is retaining it but not a loose spring or a sticky spring. Broken
porcelain or really bad gizzards make for spare parts, don’t
throw them out yet.
Take note of the orientation of the
pre-focus base. Two cut outs for the
pre-focus fins. Is the smaller one towards the
reflector or towards the front? Also note the approximate
conductor lengths outside of the outer
jacket/away from the
strain relief. Most likely you will want to reproduce it.
Next remove the lamp
socket from its
base - probably stuck, ‘Liquid Wrench spray might help - don’t get it inside the lamp
socket, just under the head of the round head 4-40 screw. Could be 6-32 screw but doubtful.
Note as you remove the screw not so much the screw - unless in really good shape you will be replacing it anyway, brass screws, even normal steel ones don’t like heat than torque and will normally break upon re-install. If in great shape and especially if brass or stainless steel fine. Believe it’s a 4-40x3/8" round head screw (list below) verify the length under the head. Otherwise it’s a new part to buy as with internal tooth lock washers and Locktite #266 or 272 high temp.
thread locker. Good idea to take a red sharpee and make the cap of the
bottle red so you know which one it is and what specific to use it on or people will use it on stupid stuff.
Note if the captive
nut in the lamp
socket is moving about in an other than screw moving type of way as you remove it. Could be a square or even hex
nut inside the
socket but most likely a nutset inside the
porcelain. Cracks to the
porcelain about this is bad no matter what type of
nut. Cracks anywhere on the
porcelain lamp
base other than in very few places near where the wiring enters from the bottom would be bad. If near the bottom, can dremmel it smooth again so no sharp edges later. Theoretically possible but not sure what wheel to use. Would need a normal dremmel tool grinding wheel to do so & it will get hot but should work sufficient to get rid of sharp edges.
Remove the wiring from the
socket. Don’t yet attempt to remove the screws completely from it unless the
wire is attached by ring terminals, some older lamp sockets don’t have removable screws. If stuck could use electrical contact cleaner on this to help lube it up. Only after the
wire is removed, carefully determine by touchy feely if the screw will come completely off the
terminal. Many of the older sockets had non-removable screws, remove them and they don’t go back on properly or strip the plate. Most likely yours will come off given the age. If corroded and in bad condition it’s possibly a
socket to replace with spare parts, resurface or replace as a
socket. Should be a brass 6-32x1/4" slotted pan-head screw but could be the same but 8-32 by up to 5/16" as possible. Again the same thing about breaking easily otherwise in
porcelain, screw
etc., be careful when removing the screws. If the screw breaks, the plate its attached to possibly can be removed than the screw vise gripped out from the opposing direction, (might want to dremmel grind off the deformed part of the thread on the broken side if this is the case so as to ensure your hole doesn’t get stripped - an on-site determination). Otherwise replaced as a standardized part
etc. these plates with spare lamp sockets if removable. Judgement
call, extracting by way of drilling out and re-tapping isn’t the best idea overall. Re-tapping once screws are out if they come out if coming out cleanly without going off center or without breaking is a should do on the other
hand. Don’t be surprised if the plates these screws are in move about a
bit - they normally do. More concerned about the
wire to plate screw at the moment and there will be some
play.
Lamp
socket free, have a look at the center contact for pitting, arching, corrosion
etc. as with the shell for discoloration and worse. Center contact should push in and out as said and also might screw tighter or looser the tension on the center contact - dependant on which brand. Could also screw tighter to the bottom hot contact plate. Should rotate some and push in and come back without a problem.
Next step assuming a
socket that is not cracked in a bad way would be to clean it up - assuming not too much else wrong with it. 15 years old, it will probably be good for servicing and won’t have as many difficulties really old Bryant or especially GE bases would. Take a 1/8" tip slotted screw
driver and screw down tight the outer
neutral shell. Don’t attempt to take apart the lamp
socket - normally it’s mechanically fine and don’t go back together that well. If you want you can add ht
thread locker to the non-contact plate threaded side of the shell but other than that don’t take it apart unless scrapping it for spare parts. First the brass
wire dremmel wheel on the outer shell. Get under the ridges of the
pre-focus and as deep as reasonable without having to get all the way down. Should clean it up well short of some stain or pitting that might need a nylon fiber wheel or possibly can be ignored. Next the center contact that’s normally the worst. Judgement
call if it can be serviced or not. Depends on how thin the material is and how much material has welded to it, or how pitted it is. Normally a combination of nylon fiber wheels between coarse and fine should be able to resurface the center contact without a problem. Smooth and
flat or smooth with a center recess. Limited pits - don’t try to grind down too hard on them, just
level them out and determine if the pits are too deep or for good electrical contact or not. Very much a judgement
call on when to replace the
socket. Flip over and surface as needed with
wire wheel and fiber tip the
wire / screw contact plates. Once all clean, all screws possible (normally center contact plate screw not possible to tighten) tight, spray down all surfaces with electrical contact cleaner and let drip dry. No, not persay rated for the heat but I have been using it on 5Kw Fresnels and larger for years with out a problem, it will take the heat.
If you need to replace the
socket, keep in mind that many brands of modern sockets are a
bit larger. Should still fit in the bracket and holes should align but it’s going to be bigger & you might have to move the grounding screw.. Also, some brands won’t have side wireway holes cut out in them and should be returned if not. Good option if replacing sockets would be ones with say 30" or 42" whips already on them in saving time and money plus effort. Still should follow the silicone coated fiberglass over sleeving note below on them and other attachment notes but otherwise highly recommended.
Under the
socket should have been some type of
insulator padding. Trash it its’ going to be bad. Next check the
ground wire connection that should be on the lamp
socket carriage.
Rivet loose in
wire being able to move?
Wire in good shape? Often this will be a type FEP w/o fiberglass
insulation on it. If loose, could pound the
rivet tight again or cut the
ground, drill out and replace with #10
ring terminal (doesn’t have to be high temp. but should not be insulated - pull the
insulation off if needed), 10-32x1/2" slotted hex washer head green
ground screw, external tooth lock washer and #10-32 top lock 18-8 stainless steel top lock
nut. Good combination for doing a
ground. Often I’ll use one lock washer under the
nut and one bet. Screw and
ring terminal or under it if painted surface.
For above
wire, most cable distribution companies should have it or theater suppliers or email McMaster Carr or others and they can get it or define further what they have in part number for compliance. Need black and white 200c fiberglass insulated Teflon or silicone 19
strand SF-2 and green the same or 200c to 150c FEP / type K insulated
wire.
Than fiberglass sleeving - either normal #0 size fiberglass or vinyl coated #0 fiberglass sleeving for more abrasion resistance. Again, above types of suppliers or McMaster Carr.
Ready to
crimp? Need a tooth Klien/Stakon #1005 single jaw type
crimp tool especially on high-temp
crimp terminals to properly
crimp them, than give them a hard tug to ensure it’s tight enough. This is the proper tool for this
gauge of
wire. Don’t forget to put the saddle of the
crimp tool into the seam of the
crimp part of the
ring terminal. Jaw of the tool goes into somewhere that ain’t a seam or it won’t be a proper
crimp. Below is the high temp
crimp terminal type, make sure the
ring terminal matches up with the size of screw on the lamp
socket. Possible it’s a 8-32 instead which would require a different size
ring terminal. Parts list below. First before buying
wire, normally on
wire what gets melted or burned up is only the first inch or so, cut it off and re-use the
whip possible? Might need to replace the fiberglass over sleeving if stranded conductors inside but otherwise might only be necessary to replace a inch or so of the told about multi-conductor wiring as long as otherwise in good shape. Look for a high temp.
wire SF-2 that’s fiberglass sleeved on each of the conductors if doing replacement. The other high temp stuff even if called SF-2 (teflon/silicone don’t matter) without the sleeving is rated for as much and you could use it but it don’t last as well near the source of heat. You mention 14/3 type, multi
conductor. Is it “rockbestos” brand name? Normally 200c. Good as gold in also cutting a
bit, stripping a
bit of the outer
jacket and re-crimping. If silicone especially by Lex, be suspicious - silicone euro style heat
wire don’t take well to nuthing and cuts down to copper with a finger
nail. That’s what
Altman switched to a few years ago. Could still use it and it’s
UL listed, just be careful of DF-50 fluid exposure to it and cuts. TMB makes a better silicone multi-conductor and even a better jacketed version much like the famed “Rockbestos” now discontinued..
So either individual conductors in fiberglass or vinyl coated sleeving- this especially if new lamp sockets with whips already on them, or if servicable the multi-conductor or sleeved whips already on them cut back some, or the TMB stuff.
Crimp the high temp. ring terminals on the conductors. Don’t have to do high temp for the
ground and also note it’s a different stud/screw size. Really can just go to the store and buy a insulated 14-16ga #10 vinyl insulated (blue)
ring terminal and pull off the vinyl
insulation. Note the hot / black center from the shell
neutral / white. If the conductors are not marked, sharpee in a black stripe to the black - it matters. If Euro, blue is
neutral, brown is hot.
On the
barrel of the
crimp do three layers of #27 Scotch fiberglass electrical tape with some overlap onto the
wire and sleeve the first at least 3" of the
wire near the
crimp with #12 silicone coated fiberglass sleeving.
Cover your
crimp also with it if possible. Don’t need to tape the sleeving in place, should stay where it is but if you do, do so near the top not under the
socket at the
crimp or it would now become too much stuff under the
socket and probably break the
porcelain as you tighten it, just slide it all the way down. This will provide some extra
insulation against abrasion, sharp edges and heat.
Following treating the resurfaced or replaced and re-tapped for
terminal base, get the new brass screws or re-use the old ones dependant on oxidation on them as an indication of what kind of shape and conductivity they are in. Add a silicone bronze lock washer to them. Screw the
wire to the
base, add some high temp. threadlocker to the 4-40 screws, (no
thread locker on any screws that conduct electricity) add a internal tooth lock washer and re-attach to the
base slide assembly. Before doing so, you need to add a
ceramic fiber
insulator pad between the
socket and slide plate. Cut some 1/16" fiber padding a little bigger than the
socket or use a 1/16" Teflon pad cut and drilled to match the silicone
circuit board like ones that come with new sockets if the
fixture might get moist. Never used a Teflon
insulator pad other than for 2K scoops, but it should work fine.
Ceramic fiber pads otherwise work well. If courtous, write on the
ceramic fiber pad “not
asbestos” so those in the future don’t worry. Mounting screws should break their way
thru the
insulator padding - very important. Can use the padding plate that comes with a new lamp
socket otherwise but they don’t take heat as well. Very important this
insulator.
Take off the
reflector, judge it’s condition. If cloudy, it’s possible with some work to clean it. If crackly, probably needs replacement. If cloudy get out some felt or cotton pads for the Dremmel tool and with rubbing compound if really bad or just Maaz metal polish (can provide mcmaster part number later if needed) proceed to buff the heck out of the
reflector. Should get the clouds out. If not too bad, can just dish washer it and or use a good window washing compound. Follow up by another cleaning with polish and rag as needed, than window washing compound, than a spraying and cleaning with
denatured alcohol and rag to remove any residue. Should get a nice and clean
reflector. Re-attach as normal, perhaps add lock washer and or replace screws on it. Make sure the
reflector is perpendicular to the
base of the slide plate. If other than and older than
Altman 65Q some reflectors will have a deeper
concave than others, and also some will be blackened around the flange of the
reflector so as to better control stray light. Touching up the black with high temp. paint can be useful, what brand or type
reflector in the end is used most likely won’t matter, not efficient enough. Clean the rear of the
reflector also and while around the back of it, if you see a matt or whitened part of it often bubbling up, time to replace the
reflector in the heat melting
thru it.
Clean the front
lens - carful not to chip it as you remove the front
lens. Dish washers with Jet Dry works great, especially industrial dish washers. Also works for reflectors if not cloudy. Don’t worry about coatings, not on it or the anodized coating on the
reflector won’t wear off by washing. Otherwise the window cleaning solution followed by the
denatured alcohol.
Pay attention to the
lens retaining ring. Possibly a good time to
send it
thru a
wire wheel than get a wipe down with a rag soaked with say WD-40. Careful again not to chip the
lens while working with a confounded
lens retaining ring - especially if old style without the fingers to it. Check the tension on the ring - should be tight enough that if you can remove it with your fingers, it should be really hard to do so otherwise replace it.
Next the slide plate(s) under the lamp
base assembly. Clean it up well with a general surface cleaner or window
wash cleaner first. Than judge if paint peeling bent
edge, center concaving out
etc. needing to be pounded back to shape or paint scraped off if paint on it. Once clean,
denatured alcohol off the residue from the cleaner and I like to use spray graphite to treat this surface for heat and glide. Dri Slide is good as spray graphite but anything will work including the spray graphite designed for key locks. Different than the powder stuff in how it gets applied/sticks. Wipe off the excess after the
vehicle has dripped or dried off it.
Also like to remove all screws/bolts/knobs at this
point and tap/die them at this
point, replace what’s warn or rusting and oil them up or thead locker them up. If the lamp assembly focus knob is missing its washer, good time to add one also. Not always on them but a good thing to add if not. This service/replacement also for the
cord grip strain relief with threadlocker and tightening. If old style knob w/o clutch ring or thermoplastic handle, pay special attention to it. If your
cord grip strain relief is loose, remove it and add
thread locker to its
nut. Also if your
strain relief seems to be rough cast in having sharp edges to the strap or cating
wire wheel them some before re-installing. Be careful when re-installing not to break it - easily done. Of your
yoke knobs, if old style - before
yoke clutches, run them
thru a die in removing any excess cast aluminum getting in the way of properly screwing it down
etc, or replace with a new handle if the set screw inside the casting looks like its ready to pop.
Cone washers should also be in good shape - normally are or replaced. As with plugs the
C-Clamp service
call is another project in itself but normally I check for bent clamps, re-tap and oil it up
etc.
Check the
fixture, paint in good shape? Spot welds not rusting out or popping? Re-paint needed after a sand blasting or chipping and
wire brushing?
Yoke need some paint/pounding? Make sure if you paint to blue
masking tape over any factory stickers or plates, than promptly remove the tape. Very important to keep the labeling on the
fixture.
Feed the
fixture whip back into the
strain relief, focus the
fixture in flood, allow a wee
bit of slack and
mark where the
whip wants to sit in the
strain relief. Focus/spot the
fixture a few times in excercising the
wire feeding the lamp
socket and bring back to spot position.
Mark on the outside of the
fixture whip where the cable is at, pull out the slack and add three or a few more layers of fiberglass electrical tape 1" outside the
strain relief and directly under where it will want to clamp. This will serve two purposes. First at the
strain relief, help to prevent the clamp from cutting into the cable. Second prevent too much flex directly at the clamp for the cable which could harm the cable and
jacket. Bring back to flood and adjust the
whip, tighten down the
strain relief screws and go back to flood/spot adjustments to ensure it’s working right and the
wire is trained to fold without fouling.
Button up and dog down screws,
play with the focus more, - might take some pushing on the
reflector assembly to train the
wire in focus assembly going from spot to focus.
Fixture might not want to go full absolute spot focus which is ok in some cases, or an adjustment might be needed. Take a flash light and make sure your conductors are not going to get hung up on anything, rub against surfaces as they focus
etc. No glide plates snagging the wires, housing bottom rubbing wires as they slide
etc.
Finally, good time to
stencil the theater’s letters on the
yoke and make sure the
safety cable is there if not slung around the
yoke and in good condition.
Think that about covers it. The 6-32 screw up front that holds the
lens assembly on and acts like a hinge. Forget... 6-32 or 8-32. Darned acorn nuts. Too tight they are binding the metal? Too loose and need
thread locker? Rusted solid? Can replace with normal screw and nylock
nut if needed - a wee
bit long one but normal, perhaps stainless steel would be a better hinge
point otherwise but them acorn nuts - make sure they are in good shape if not replaced with nylock. Top
lens retainer screwd in and not coming loose from its spring plate? Not bent out of shape
etc? Service
call.
Blow out the
fixture really well before putting the lamp in. Perhaps clean it with the window washing compound as needed.
Below McMaster Carr part numbers if of help: (verify description above and below matches part number before ordering. Could be off a part number / size or two at times and probably am in some instances - done quickly but should get you into the proper chart)
single jaw
crimp tool #7289k1
nylon mesh
flat or round tip abrasive tip 4630a14 or 4630a19 - specify fine and course tip
nylon mesh
cone abrasive tip 4630a13 - specify fine and course tips
1" brass
wire wheel 4792a22
1/4" brass
wire wheel 4792a32 (that’s not correct, check 2 pages before) 1/8" shank like 3/8" bristle.
3M Scotch #27 fiberglass electrical tape, ½" 76455a17
High temp 14-16ga #6 stud
ring terminal 69405k15
#12 silicone coated fiberglass sleeving 7453k83
10-32x3/8"
ground screw 92597a400
10-32 s.steel top lock
nut 90045a18
#10 external tooth lock washer, zinc 91114a011
#6 silicone bronze external tooth washer 92164a009
#4 s.steel internal tooth lock washer 91757a101
2x 4-40x3/8" slotted 18-8 s.steel round head screw 91810a108
1x Locktite #266 high temp. (red)
thread locker
1x Electrical Contact Cleaner w. Lubricant Skotchkote Electrical Coating, 15oz. can #7437k15
2x 6-32x1/4" brass pan-head screw 92446a1441/32"x3"x50'
Ceramic Fiber Strip 87575K83 (use the 1/16" size)
Graphite Dry Lubricant Aerosol 20F-+850F, 10oz Aerosol 13725k12
Dry Slide Moly Lubricant 5.1/2oz Aerosol, Corrosion
Resistor 1163k12
Rust-Stopper Aerosol Paint Self-Priming, Gloss Black, 12 oz Net Wt 77025T731
Flat Black Tough-Coat Rust-Stopper Aerosol Paint 15 Ounce Net Weight 7891T3
Engine Aerosol Paint Gloss Universal Black, 11 Ounce Net Weight 7614T418
High-Temperature Aerosol Paint
Flat Black,, 12 oz 7832T19
Polyester/Cellulose Clean Room Wipe 4" X 4", Packs of 300 7089T31