As I am several thousand miles away I am not going to be much help when it comes to an online shop that will be beneficial to your location. However, I would suggest looking at the accessories and cases the SKB produce
http://www.skbcases.com/home/index.html
I tend to
build my own rack mounted shelves and drawers as I find it much more cost effective and not all that difficult. Besides, there are some instances where you can never find exactly what it is that you want.
In many cases you can get the materials free from metal fabrication workshops as the off cuts that they
throw away are ideal for what is needed. I am not sure what the situation is in the US but here you can get almost anything done for a case of beer. I often get things bent up and pressed at a local fabricator and the most he has ever charged was a case of beer.
FWIW – I usually remove the screw on feet of non-rack mounted equipment and then screw thee equipment to the shelf via these existing holes. This saves on having to drill holes (in which you have to be very careful as the metal filings can cause shorts if you don’t clean out the case properly), or messing about with adhesive backed
Velcro.
For drawers – I do is
bend up 2
flat strips of metal strap so that it forms a very wide U shape.
The length of the two upright sections of the U will be the same width as a standard rack mounting tag and the length of the bottom section of the U will be the same as the distance between the outer faces of the rack-mounting strip (front and rear).
This then gives you a
flat section of metal that sits flush with the wall of your rack (as most racks have walls that are not
flat, you can use the ‘pockets’ created by the extrusion as the space for the screws, bolts, rivets to poke through).
The next step is to fix the runners directly to the
flat section and make the draw as you normally would.
For a shelf – I make the same metal strip that I have described above but instead of bending both ends upwards; I
bend one up and one down.
The next step it to cut a length of angle the same width as the rack MINUS 2x the
thickness of the metal you are using and any distance that your metal strap sits away from the wall of the rack. Fix this to the 2 strips of metal to form the back support of the shelf.
The next step will vary depending on what you want to do and what materials you have. Sometimes I will a piece of sheet metal bent up to form the
base of the shelf, in which cases the two sides (the are bunt up at 90 degrees to the
base) will be fixed to the metal strip and the rear
edge fixed to the angle. Some times I have use a thin piece of plywood as the
base, in this case I would put a couple of off-cuts of angle on to the metal strip to make supports/mounts. There are a couple of ways to do it and it really does come down to what you want to achieve and the materials you have at your disposal.
Some tips:
1. Do as much of the drilling that you can do before the material is cut/bent as this will make it easier.
2. Use Aluminium angle as much as possible as this will reduce the weight and doesn’t rust – you can often
pick up off-cuts and short lengths from window/shower
screen manufacturers for free.
3. If using plywood for the bases, you can cut sections out to reduce the weight and improve airflow. I tend to use a 2” hole saw for this.
Hope that this is helpful. It may sound like a lot of messing around but for what we have to pay here for shelves and drawers – it is well worth it!