athletics director

i don't mean to sound rude but it sounds like you have cause a lot of the damage, a bit like me really know i think bout it.

if anyone in england here watched party in the park and noticed the two blown bulbs on the 8xpar36 blocks - thats me

the "lost" supercycs - thats me (and the damn truck driver)

oh well we all have to learn one way - blow it up!

PS. ALWAYS CLEAN THE OPTOS ON ML's
 
ship said:
Source4Spike said:
Par LAMP. Get it right foo'
-Nick

Actually it's PAR lamp, get it also right fool, or do I need to get into what PAR stands for?

DYS ray light kits are easily replaced by the standard PAR lamp. The teacher could have installed the lamp into the fixture by removing the "Ray Light" kit from the fixture. Most modern ray light kits use the same lamp base (GX-16d) as the PAR lamp they replace thus it's an easy lamp swap.

A bulb is the glass, the Lamp is the machine. Both are acceptable in certain situations. On Ray Lights, there is a 300w version usable in the fixtures, the proper DYS 600w version and the 800w version being used by the Kid Rock tour as probably the first use of such even higher output Ray Light lamp I specificified for use in their show. Ray Lights are nice and it has the future in technology in them given they as opposed to your HPL lamps actually do have a dichroic coating to them in making the filament burn hotter thus a more efficient lamp for a given wattage.

Dimming a halogen lamp is just fine at 120v. The caution specifically is about low voltage such as 12v halogen lamps when under dimming conditions. The 120v lamp will have sufficient voltage present for the halogen effect to take place as will all Stage and Studio - for the most part ANSI coded lamps have this correction/improvement applied to them. Also it's still in question about operation in series such as in a Cyc light on the effects of halogen gas in making them hot enough in general. Given series operation of a number of lamps as opposed to a single one such as in the kitchen lights at home directly controlled by the transformer. After that, a theater wave form chopping of the voltage verses a variable resistance dimmer would not matter much in low voltage lamps. Both will not get hot enough by specification to activate the halogen gas given the low voltage.

Stage and Studio lamps specifically are noise resistant and under line voltage will have the same and boosted extended life. Low voltalge stage and studio lamps even if low voltage are also in general supposted to worl properly. This is more a household dimming problem than one of the stage in general.

Hope that educates and allievates the fears some. Unless the lamp you replace has problems, normally you won't have to replace the lamp soon no matter what the voltage. Given repat visits to the same fixture this than is something suspect.

Personally I question whether the "foo" as even necessary. After reading a post as to why people don't post and that others are concerned about this fact because they want to establish an on-line family, why the need to call names?
 
No offense on my part either in being one big or at least happy dis-functional tech family. I saw the "get it right foo" and the lack of also getting it right much less respect and I pounced. Sorry but I did not know you guys were busm buddies such as Wolf and I would be thus we might publically slam each other in calling names, but I would not expect others to do so to either of us. Otherwise without the "get it right" I will have not brought up proper spelling of anything. By the way it's two words PAR and Can, not Parcan. This would be as opposed to Ceiling Can or any other can type lighting instrument on the market. Leko verses leko, Fresnel verses fresnel etc.

We all must admit that a lot of the leko spellings are out of lazyness which is fine but not proper. Leko as a I got these lekos that have problems is different than The Leko's in my inventory, as a proper name and specific item. Many times the typing we use is less official and more off the cuff. That's fine as long as the topic follows.

While not at work a certain amount of lattitude is expected both with spelling and how we type much less our mis-types or spellings. Gaff tape for instance instead of Gaffers Tape. This to a certain extent I do accept up until the point that I think it useful for those I respond to, do need to understand such proper spellings because they might think the way they are posting to be right and use such spellings professionally. Heck, just a few weeks ago I was criticized for how I spelled Soco much less the following Socopex plugs as apposed to Socapex as the proper spelling. Soco being the slang but confusing given the spelling of the slang. This correction by someone else in also not necessiarially being nice about the correction did serve a purpose for me in helping me to remember the brand name.

Thus in addition to the get it right foo correction that was not correct in itself, I did post the proper correcting in a similar making you feel just as small as the person you posted to way.

In the end, I expect we all are above taking any posting too harshly we are all crew types after all.
 
On the lamps, or my being an engineer, nope. While I might be considered one of two Master Electricians for a very large lighting company and possibly be one of the more knowledgable people in the industry on the subject of lamps, I'm just a tech person and no engineer. What I know about electrics and lamps is nothing special or at times I find it hard to believe that in many ways the more average tech person does not know. This AC Distro unit has 15 amp circuit breakers, how many Lekos can I plug into it was asked to me by our at the time assistant shop manager. Such things as PAR verses Halogen lamps, at some point I would expect everyone that calls himself a professional in this industry would understand and know plus lots more. As a student, this is the prime time to be learning stuff thus also the importance for learning what you will need to know, or at least will be best served in knowing. Nope no engineer, my standards for being a professional might be larger than most in calling themselves one but nothing special on my part beyond perhaps the lamp specs to which out of necessity I had to study given I buy and am expected to know them.

On the dimmers, I expect you already know what the problem is - your dimmers are screwed up and in need of repair. Such a shame that safety at times takes a backseat to budget. Safe to use a piece of equipment that is malfunctioning?

Instead of guessing about that or mic cable, I think it better for someone of like experience to come out and help you solve the problems. On line is one thing, yet without being there it's guess work much less those minor details such as bad strain reliefs are missed when not known to be concerned about. We on line supplement each other and help when comfounded, but it does not replace servicable gear in good working order and someone on site or frequently visiting it that is just as qualified (hopefully given the pay) to see what we don't know about. For instance it could be a total load type of thing on a un-balanced load to one phase type of thing either supplying a dropped or lagging voltage or lots of other solutions beyond the dimmer in question that I would pull from service until figured out in person.

After that all, I know less about dimmers/electronics and moving lights, much less sound than most. Kind of a "Jack of all Trades" type issue in what one specializes in verses what one learns in general I expect.

Refine your question and post it in it's proper place would be my advice. That and get someone out to repair your equipment.
 
I love this site...its fun to watch one post create so much controversy over nothing. :D

And you really should write a book Ship.

-Nick
 
Ship said:
On the dimmers, I expect you already know what the problem is - your dimmers are screwed up and in need of repair.

For me this has to be the quote of the week! :)

Oh - JahJahwarrior, if you want a second opinion on your dimmers - I totally agree with Ship. It sounds like you need to get them looked at ASAP.
 
ok, I'll really try to get them to do that soon...I mean, I really want to use more lights!! :D

Yeah, I donno...I suppose I have broken a few things..but really, that cable wiring having, atlesat I think it has in it, a short, is that my fault? I didn't wire the building! but, now I have that cord taped to the wall with duct tape all over the plugs until I can get someone tolook at it. I do try my best...I clean my stage all the time, try to organize things...but, because anyone can slip under the curtain, and because so many people are idiots, things get moved, broken, etc. Like that SM57...I turned on the lights and it was sitting on a music stand, with the head off. Someone twisted it enough so that inside ring thingypopped out on side...all the wires inside were busted, to repair it would have cost about $70....the price of a new one...(atleast with how the minister of music has like a business account or something with whoever he gets his stuff from) And, we had a carpet box for stage stuff, complete with locks and all...the keys? they were stolen (we hid them in a spot onthe stage, cause there was only 1 left, the other got lost I figure...remember, this was when I wasn't really incharge, I didn't think to ask tehd dude who was if anyone had other keys) and one week they were just not there, and fortunatley, the locks weren't on it, I locked them off of it, so incase we could't find the key they wouldn't be put on the case....we never found the key. Then, our youth pastorr, without tellnig me, took the carpet box and put some gaming stuff in them and stuck it in the gameroom....so, he just left all oru stuff out on stage...we hav eno box to stck things in so things get stolen or broken, like we had three rolls of duct tape, all gone in two weeks. Powerstrips? three new ones, two gone in a month. What can I do?? I ask almot every week for him to get us a new box, he always says "ok, sometime" and he never does.

Now, the amp blwing...that was my fault, but I learned my lesson, and I won't screw that up again. But, it worked for a few weeks before blwoing! :D
 
ship said:
No offense on my part either...

Ship, I wasn't directing my previous post at you... i just forgot to delete the html quoting you, sorry. I was directing it at the person who posted the original "foo" comment.

The only reason why I responded initially was that I have recommended that my stage manager and technical director use this site as a resource. I want them to be able to freely post their questions without perceiving themselves as stupid. When I saw the original comment quibbling as to whether it was a PAR lamp versus par bulb and calling the original poster a "foo" I became concerned. That kind of talk will lessen the educational value of this forum because not every young adult using these boards will have a thick skin. They may simply decide to not come back and that would be a shame because they can learn a lot here.

Controversy not-withstanding... comments like that simply aren't necessary.
 
okay, we in being a "Lively Art" as some text book I once studied under pronounced what we do as, we all have our own passions that get flaming and fun at times but in the end if new people that don't understand our little squabbles don't understand, such squabbles in us all being tech do end in understanding. Just don't tred on our space if you are not.

In any case the question of PAR's is for the most part answered and other questions should be re-posted I believe in either what went wrong type things or other questions. For me I keep telling my boss that without a qualified and perminant assistant I can't possibly handle more projects in things to re-wire, yet every day there is another thing added to my to get done list. I care about 400amp three phase AC Distro packs exploding during a show, but don't have the time to re-wire them, what's you own solution given you keep adding to my own work load?

Long story on my own part having added some 1,200w ballasts to follow spots added to my list of things to fix today. Something anyone can do for me, no but something I have the hope to get done amongst other projects also, nope.

What went wrong, stuff blew up on all types of equipment and while my name was not yet on any gear that blew up, such a chance is coming soon. Much less given the work load of projects somehow I am only either qualified or trusted to fix given a lack of training or remembering by everyone elese trained, I'm stuck.

Idiots, some. Lots of others that seek the glory of the stage but think that them being on it is sufficient and no further study is necessary in being a pro at it. Me I studied and have to cover for their professional lack of professional ability. Next person asking for a screw without having a concept of what type of screw it is they hold - yet want one anyway, watch out. Last person got his screw but of the wrong wire size. Next person will be lost in trying to figyure out what to ask for I expect.

Meanwhile I'm contacting vendors to find not just the description but the part number for the new GE CSR 700SA lamp so I have a hope of finding it's lamp specifications so as to tell the difference between it and the Philips or Osram lamps. Don't always expect anyone to know the major difference between a SA and say non-SA lamp, or differenences between brands but I do expect them to ask for the lamp they need.

Need a vacation.
 
call me an idiot, but whats' an SA or non SA lamp??? never heard of those....

See, I know the most about our system in the techie realm at my church, other than the minister of music, (he knows like EVERYTHING about it, is way smarter than I am!) and even I dont' know about wiring those 400 amp three phase ac distro thingies...not even exactly sure what those are...you sound like a professional!!

But, atleast most of the time, I know what scrwe to ask for!! If I don't, I'll find similar screws and compare.
 
Sorry about the long rant above, it’s been about six weeks of long hours, lots of projects needing to get done and out the door, and even more gear coming in with very little of it going out by way of anyone but me to repair it. An un-realistic amount of gear and like every week up to now I’m already booked solid thru next week without even repairing anything or working on the long term re-wiring projects. Much less new projects added.
Rants beat coming home to kick the cat, much less let me remember the things I forget by the end of the day so I can send myself an E-Mail in reminding myself for the next day given I usually don’t even get a chance to turn on my computer at work for a few hours to see what’s added to the list.



Nope, you are not an idiot, just have not learned about such things yet just as I before last week had no idea of what an I-bot/pod or what ever that song collection thing is which stores a few thousand songs.

A SA lamp is a Short-Arc metal halide stage and studio lamp for a moving light of a type normally having boosted output over other lamps of it’s wattage and frequently shorter start up or cool down periods if I remember right as a further detail about them. They also are commonly but not only (if I remember a few newer ones) found in lamps without an outer globe over them. These lamps are also frequently very temperamental over that of other metal halide lamps in not having a outer globe than cooling down too fast, much less pinch seal problems in the past where the lamp would just get too hot and attack the place the lamp was pinched together at. Simply put at least with that pinch seal issue with these turbo charged lamps. I believe this problem is why most lamps now of all types including Stage and Studio halogen types have some form of new pinch seal technology. Once they solved the problems with the 700SA lamp, the technology followed to other types.

In any case, this is a Philips catalog description if I remember the source: (Note some parts of the description have changed.)

SA = Short Arc, can be operated on magnetic ballasts. Preferable is the use of power stabilized electronic ballasts. Does not have outer globe. The run-up time is maximum two minutes ,their restrike time is 5-10 minutes, depending on cooling conditions, dimming is not possible. Lamps are usually hot restartable and have small compact dimensions. Lamps with outer bulbs on the other hand are easier to handle, provides optimum noise suppression when operated with electronic control gear. The outer jacket improves the dimming characteristics and allows the lamp to be used in any position, but makes cool down time longer for restrike and maint. purposes.



A AC Distro unit is like a home’s main circuit breaker panel except in this case it’s three phases of hot wires and rated for 400 amps each in having 96 circuit breakers at 20 amps plus other types of outputs and feed thru’s. Such things are portable for road shows in powering up the moving lights primarily amongst other things and can cost as much as a dimmer system.

While initially written, I won’t go into the problems with the AC Distro units or the to do list for Friday, besides this is the second round of upgrades to them now and these racks are not fun to be inside of. This upgrade I just started is going to take about 10 hours per rack to do out of about 16 of them. One of many upgrade projects on my list at this point.
 
dude.....your job sounds ike stressful, but intersting.


We finally sent off our dimmer packs to be fixed!! We don't have hree phase 400 amp distro thingies....and 96 circuit breakers??? like, the ones in a homne circuit breaker panel??? man....

Ok, so like some SA lamps are just the filament?? so, it's just a really hot piece of metal, it doesn't uses gasses to obtain light? (like a halogen light utilizes halogen gas to make brighter lights) wierd...lots of stuf fI don't know!
 
My job is for the most part fun and interesting even if stressful and harsh in work load at times. Part of that stress for me initially as the person buying lamps became the difference between an EVC and ELC lamp. The GE catalog’s description of both lamps was exactly the same and in fact it’s probably the same inner capsule. Constantly bought the wrong lamp to the extent that I almost lost this part of my job because of it. Lamp vendors only confused me more, the only thing that would help was further study on my own, and taking notes that eventually evolved into that book at one time I was writing and a 25KB table comparing one lamp to another based upon common attributes of all lamps. The primary difference by the way is that one is a MR-16 lamp, the other does not have that reflector around it. Unfortunately the catalog did not mention that little detail which prevented a ELC from fitting into a Trackspot - something in the past I have bought about 900 a year for in resale lamps.

By the way, don’t call me “dude” wrong generation and I’m not looking for my car. While online and buddies, to me such a non-proper phase in calling someone is far too superficial and even offensive to me at least. Nobody calls me dude - one of them little quarks about me probably stemming from the military. No need to apologize as I realize no offense was meant. Don’t call me Mr. either, I’m not my dad in a similar way and I work for a living thus am not Sir.



Most higher wattage multi-vapor lamps from a street light to a stage and studio lamp have a double lamp to them along with a lot of halogen lamps - especially in the home owner version. This inner globe similar to a fat RSC/T-3 pinched at both ends like work light lamp you will frequently see within the outer globe. This optimizes the size of the globe necessary for the lamp to be most efficient in operating or holding the temperature for the gas - which ever it is to work with. It can also be crucial for bulb pressure given the heat as the outer globe will help to reinforce the inner globe in expansion and contraction due to heat. This inner globe than once sealed within another globe assembly has certain advantages in being able to add a reflector assembly, a outer bulb that you can touch without needing to clean it afterwards (depending upon the type of bulb and it’s thickness) to further retaining heat or insulating the inner globe from exterior temperatures. The outer globe also allows the possibility to frost the outer globe on high wattage lamps without possibly compromising the ability to withstand temperatures or pressures. No matter if it is an inner frosted coating, etched which can reinforce the bulb to a certain extent ceramic based paint or an outer sand blasted one, such coatings retain more heat than clear glass. Such frosted lamps like on a cyc or scoop lamp will as an advantage allow for a larger surface dia. of light output which has defiant advantages over clear lamps when a soft beam of light is desired thus the use of frosted lamps inside of an incandescent strip light as opposed to clear ones. Anyone using a clear lamp in such soft wash fixtures should switch. To some extent a PAR flood lamp will also have frosting involved as with the lenses to Fresnels.

The MSR 700SA lamps for instance on the necessity of outer globes in a bulb, in this case without an outer globe had problems in exploding due to the temperature the inner bulb worked at when cooled down too soon after shut down or at times when operating given it was normally a fan shut down issue while operating with them after the pinch seal issues similar in many ways to the low voltage lamps above. Some studio versions of moving lights don’t even require fans to operate, they do require outer globe lamps thus or their lamps would get really hot or expire without a fan cooling it to the rate necessary. To a certain extent, you don’t want to cool it too fast and you don’t want to cool it too slow after operating.

The glass on the MSR 700SA lamp as some form of monumental lamp in my opinion as a pain in the rear when introduced simply could not take the change or differences in temperature which on other lamps with an outer globe will not have had as much of a problem with. The glass at the pinch seal where wires feeding the lamp go from outside atmosphere to inner atmosphere is frequently a wee bit cooler than the inner lamp area and pressures involved in spreading the glass much less expansion and contraction of the foil lead in wires cause problems with helping to break that pinch seal. Six months, six fixtures and sixty lamps at about $145 each by my memory of some of the initial fixtures everyone wanted to use in having both these lamps and some programming issues with the fan shutting off. Note this was not as much an issue with the HES fixture using this lamp but another one I will not name. Once said fixtures are specified and out on a rock tour, all you can do is supply the lamps they burn thru in the hopes as eventually happened that the burn up issue both at the lamp manufacturer and fixture company will eventually solve the problems. Until then in this case it cost us $8,700.00 to keep the fixtures running on the tour until the problems were solved.

Wanna work for a high tech lighting company? Sometimes such issues of the newest gear you work with and are necessary to purchase due to a designer’s can’t live without request have a few expensive bugs to them you than have to pay for at least in keeping them running as long at the tour is going. That MAXXYZ desk (in another debate) that had the Martin rep fly out to solve bugs with it for instance is a part of the things going on with using the latest in gear. Somehow especially at smaller profile houses, it might be less frequent the direct help especially if a major bug with the fixture which is factory orientated and not just a programming issue. The original Power Cyc units for instance used to use a custom high output MSI 1800 metal halide lamp of incredible intensity but for me at least $366.00 each. Still have 9 of them in stock because this was the minimum amount I could keep in stock for about 12 fixtures at the time given the rate of blown up lamps. Unfortunately what the manufacturer did not consider is perhaps the fixtures would not be used at a horizontal angle to which the lamp was not designed for less than, much less other slight problems with it. Lots of blown lamps later, and a total replacement of all fixtures using that lamp, it’s a key moving light wash light in the industry now. Getting in on that moving light at the start however cost lots of money given the blown lamps in bata testing it. Them lamps I still stock are lost profit at $3,294.00 I have sitting on the shelf without a use because while necessary at one point, they are now obsolete. Talking about stress - every year our accountants no doubt see this figure and it reflects badly on the trust I have in keeping up a $100K inventory in spare lamps for both our use and resale. Talking about the stress of job security amongst people that have in stock this OEM (something like end user non-normal stock) lamp, such things as lost profit in what I bought in addition to the possibility that what I wire could blow up during a show in a very bad way much less kill someone has a certain amount of stress for me. Thus often my hard line and very specific posts relating to the world I exist in.

Fortunately most blown lamps in not living up to the expected lamp life of the lamp were able to be returned thus were credited with replacement or reimbursement after tested by the manufacturer in having a warranty issue problem. Such warranty issues however often take three months to confirm thus paid for, and don’t get reimbursed either in shipping charges or if they decide the lamp lived a good life and failed somewhat before expectation but still in living a good life at the manufacturer’s choice often don’t get reinbersed. Moving lights while cool are big business and expensive to keep operating. If your theater program has a problem in you getting fresh lumber or a box of screws to build with, much less a few more Lekos, wishing to go moving light is probably a pipe dream in once you get it, you won’t be able to afford lamps to it. $145.00 for this specific MSR 700SA lamp, my prices from (possibly) “grey market” sources are much cheaper in the $134.00 range but still not cheap enough much less I have to wait until someone boards a plane with them instead of paying the terrif on such lamps. This can often take weeks and not allow for a premature failure of the lamp return. Given they will once quoted not come back three weeks later when you call asking where your lamps are say, “sorry, I can’t get them” or they are going to be a little more expensive. This at best grey market verses $95.00 for a other domestic brand of copycat lamps with known quality control issues in our last test of them verses I believe I was posting about the Osram/GE alternative solutions in being cheaper to the Philips. In my bulk purchasing I’m down to about $123.00 for this lamp by way of one of the above name brands but given the alternate company VeraLite uses am mandated to use the company of questionable quality control of their lamps now at least for giving them another chance. The only thing I have not tried yet is Ushio much less opening up a new account with someone else trying as a sales person to become “my best friend” in wishing to become my exclusive supplier above the others. So many lamp suppliers, so little time on my part to deal with them, much less even Grainger wanting to become my supplier but once they get the price I am currently paying with a lot of effort on my part in shopping around, suddenly they become silent. Hmm, two vendor reps from Grainger later in coming out to visit me and wanting to become my lamp supplier, and the second is acting like the first in after he gets the info from me not saying I can save you money given our large volume sales purchasing power. Perhaps if I were to go back to how it was before I started buying lamps they might improve my costs. As I remember it, it was somewhere around $16.95 per HPL 575w/C lamp. Now I’m at $13.90 per lamp but with a lot of effort as my job became. EIKO and lots of other companies call me on a monthly basis - is there anything I can do for you? Other companies such as ABCO/Westinghouse or GE consider my accounts with them sleeper accounts and don’t really give me much of a price break. I thus get better prices thru the distributers. Even quoted $100.00 on the MSR or in this case given MSR is a proprietary name for a Philips lamp, the AMHK 700SA lamp thru the vendor yet thru a distributer it’s $95.00.

This as opposed to $145.00 for the proper Philips lamp thru the most hungry of distributers but those that don’t buy illegal grey market lamps, much less have them in stock to overnight to a show. Given I get sufficient notice in lamp needs. Hmm, 3PM Central Standard Time and UPS is about to pick up from us and you need an AM delivery in New York where shipping much less businesses are about to close down for the day? That about means that while often the West Coast 1PM suppliers are often not the best price, at lest they can ship your lamp needs across the country in time for your needs even if stupid in price for doing so. Thirty suppliers or so plays a factor at times thus in just being able to get a lamp across the country after shipping hours are done with for next day delivery. This much less overnight AM deliveries to Birmingham England from New York. Customs - the chance at times I take if a 120v lamp and not on the island. Either that or wait until the tour hits Russia where shipping is even more chancy, or it’s on a boat to Australia thus it’s going to be a while now that we need even more lamps yet.

I believe Ushio is buying this specific lamp from Philips in that they don’t make it yet and are hungry for more business from me, given they buy more moving light lamps from Philips than I do that in talks with a vendor rep from Philips don’t even rate a followup E-Mail to his vist to me, given the vendor rep I met with no doubt by now is more prone to selling washing machines than selling lamps given the lack of followup. A sales person with many sales people is a sales person. One minute they sell lamps, the next washing machines. Want real knowledge about lamps, inquire elsewhere like Control Booth, to them it’s how many you buy per year and how much they can get away with charging you. I’m not a sales person when I don’t have to be but even with us though I could kill the local Chicago suppliers in retail price, our sales people do the same in what they can get away with in fleecing the customer. Had I the time and interest in pissing off our completion we work with, Design Lab, Grand Stage and Chicago Spotlight could about close their doors in sales given my more honest or at least for me direct from markup pricing. Such an effort however is bad for business and given the amount of gear to fix is bad for my time usage and business to business relations. I remember the days of paying $28.00 for a EHD lamp, now that’s $11.50 for me at least given at the time I did not care about the brand over shock value of price. In some ways in leaving theater, I had to sell out what I used to hold in value to me as a small time theater TD as opposed to what I could do but did not have the time to even at a 1.3% fair markup presue in offering in price to my brothers still doing the art. Last time I did have time and did send out an E-Mail to such sources and brothers, they were too lazy to leave the D-Lab connection anyway even if months later they did need to purchase the lamps. Other tech people in the low budget industry constantly piss me off in not saving notes about who is cheap in price or at least taking the time to compare prices such as I make time for now. I don’t bother with my low budget theater buddies I once made anymore in that they besides one source I provide limited supplies to, never contacted me. Enough for my being a brother in paying prices I could not afford, I now avoid sales if I can help it. Such stress and souring of such things from my brothers in the local industry in adding to my stress levels in just making it thru the day and hoping I did not have to come in to work during the weekend soured me to more efforts.

Ushio at least might have a larger discount factor given all moving light lamps are for the most part made and Europe and given the dollar tanked all moving light lamps have recently gone up in price. Next week at some point, I will have to sit down at the computer to figure out how many lamps I bought last year and add them to my lamp by lamp tracking of what I buy so such info will be of use in giving me a price for the next year’s expected purchase in them for the best price verses profit ratio by the supplier at Ushio if they get to be cheaper. Most of my suppliers in offering me a good price expect me to furnish specific amounts per year I will be expected to purchase. Easy with the EVC much less HPL 575w/C lamp, it’s just under a thousand a year, with the MSR 700SA, it’s more complex in me buying about 16 every other month but specific amounts? Don’t know. I have about 30 suppliers just for lamps, Ushio being only one of them distributer or manufacturer alike. $100K a year in lamp purchases is enough for various manufacturers to visit me directly but often not enough for a large enough discount factor in buying direct from them. This all as opposed to the days of buying one or two lamps per fixture type a year when prices per lamp were at times at least double in price. Now at least I as a buyer have some kind of pull with my own suppliers in having target goals in price and backing them up by saying hey, this guy is offering the lamp for this price, can you do better? When I had more time to shop around for lamps I even sent around a yearly list of pricing and expected purchases for the last three years in making them go thru a few hundred lamps and re-quote their pricing on them if they wanted to keep my business or gain more. Such pull I had but it takes a lot of effort on my part I don’t have time for anymore much less defiantly the stepping on the hurt feelings of suppliers in not being adequate to others. (These prices being dealer volume costs given on average $1K a day in purchased lamps - normal retail value of such lamps is often much higher.)

In the case of just about all halogen PAR lamps of any wattage, there is normally an inner capsule part of the lamp inside of the PAR globe. This has the same effect above in optimizing the efficiency of the lamps bulb around the filament yet still offering the reflector assembly. Also why you can touch a halogen PAR lamp but not a halogen Leko lamp. There are other styles of inner halogen capsule such as on some linear filament tube lamp fixtures. Another style is on the line of CDM lamps used in some architectural lighting fixtures and even some Lekos and PAR’s. Such lamps have ceramic instead of quartz inner glass globes. I believe on the CDM lamp, that ceramic becomes so hot it’s clear when at operating temperature, yet ceramic has distinct advantages over quartz in high heat conditions.

Further study might be in the pressure involved with heat and any gas inside of a lamp from argon or nitrogen in a incandescent to the chemical soup of metal halides inside of an expensive moving light lamp. Given an inner globe operating at extreme temperature, the pressures must be extreme once hot. As mentioned before, there is some stated concerns at least with home owner grade low voltage lamps which operate under a dimmer in that they are not getting hot enough for the iodine/bromine mixture of the halogen gas to absorb and redeposit the filament. Instead these might when active simply corrode the pinch seal. Such concerns have been stated thru some manufacturers with only few slight notes about stage and studio lamps not having this problem due no doubt to improvements in pinch seal technology such as necessary due to the MSR 700SA. Philips has P3 pinch seals, other brands have other technology and they are a good read about. One company even just uses a Purple UV paint in resisting damage.

Stage and Studio lamps are also HRG (Heat Resisting Glass) in nature in being more expensive but shock and heat resistant above home owner grades of the glass. Stage and Studio lamps to some degree also have a certain amount of noise resistance meaning that humm you sometimes might get off some lights when near especially with a microphone will be much less with a stage and studio lamp. Given the higher quality of such lamps, expecting that such an improvement to the low voltage line to prevent damage while dimmed is possible.

In any case, the Quartz lamp globe allowed for a higher operating temperature than normal lamps such as soft lime glass in that it’s inherently stronger if more brittle as a material and due to the smaller sizes necessary to withstand the heat more efficient in heat and strength.

There is lots of notes on globes and glass. In all a lamp no matter the form of it is one big balancing scale in optimizing the desired characteristics of it. For instance, most modern Lekos use a higher output in color temperature lamp. This is in many ways due to it’s operating at an over the lamp’s design primary voltage condition. 115v instead of 120v of normal Leko lamps. This was a balance in choosing this attribute of the lamp in that while it would last a much shorter amount of time especially under an expected 118v - three volts over it’s design voltage, it would however have expanded output and color temperature due to this. Had such lamps had a xenon filler to them, much less they are working on dichroic coatings and inner reflectors for them, they would be more efficient yet.

A sample of further improvements is Silica fused to the quartz glass is an even higher temperature / wattage range improvement by 50%. On the subject of outer globe lamps, there are some projector lamps now using a liquid filled outer globe to better control cooling of the lamp much less expansion and contraction. Such liquid filled lamps either with an outer globe which requires a larger hole in the reflector - part of the reason they are not used as much for efficient equipment, or other details such as expensive rare earth - often high in electron elements once added to the lamp preform much better. Some of these elements are even slightly radioactive. KR-85 is a common trace element inside of a metal halide lamp. HES in an interview about lamps and them said that they had to apply for a special licence in stocking their over 100 radioactive lamps at a time in stock. I expect I should also given that IESTA article last year, I stock about twice as many as a minimum.

Further reading on the subject of balances between lamps and on the subject of lamp design is the free book by Osram/Sylvania:
http://ecom.mysylvania.com/sylvaniab2c/b2c/z_login.do;jsessionid=ID4001DB0.9892852556966844End go to the PDF:
Engineering Bulletin - Technology and Application - Tungsten Halogen Low Voltage Lamps Photo Optics
This book is cited in many books as a source for a lot of their and my information and it’s free to download. Should the link not work, go to the Osram website and do a websearch on any ANSI lamp such as the EVC as recommended and a specific lamp. Below it will be bulletins and sources. Click on it and you will have an excellent book on lamps beyond titles such as “Determination of the ratio fo the luminous flux of discharge lamps to the luminous flux of reference incandescent lamps” - EUR #10574. Talking about boring reading for only a few useful tips.
 
Ship said:
Further reading on the subject of balances between lamps and on the subject of lamp design is the free book by Osram/Sylvania:
http://ecom.mysylvania.com/sylvaniab2c/b2c/z_login.do;jsessionid=ID4001DB0.9892852556966844End go to the PDF:
Engineering Bulletin - Technology and Application - Tungsten Halogen Low Voltage Lamps Photo Optics
This book is cited in many books as a source for a lot of their and my information and it’s free to download. Should the link not work, go to the Osram website and do a websearch on any ANSI lamp such as the EVC as recommended and a specific lamp. Below it will be bulletins and sources. Click on it and you will have an excellent book on lamps beyond titles such as “Determination of the ratio fo the luminous flux of discharge lamps to the luminous flux of reference incandescent lamps” - EUR #10574. Talking about boring reading for only a few useful tips.

Ship - I am wondering what I am doing wrong? The link doesn't work and so I followed the directions that you gave.

All of the results point to this one .pdf:

http://osram.com/pdf/service_corner/LightingProgram-PO.pdf

Whilst there seems to be some interesting info in the appendix section, I cannot seem to find such a link to the document that you refer to above.

I even did a search for:

"Engineering Bulletin - Technology and Application - Tungsten Halogen Low Voltage Lamps Photo Optics" and various combinations of the contained words.

Any suggestions??
 
My bust, it's off the Sylvania website, the Osram website is useless for other than newsletters. Funny how the Sylvania website is centered around America as it should be yet you can't get any Sylvania stage and studio lamps in America. Such Sylvania stage and studio types are only available in Europe. Instead it's Osram here for them. However your home center carries the Sylvania line often. I expect this is as opposed to in Europe where fluorescents would be Osram but Stage and Studio Sylvania. Wish the website creaters would finally merge much less get Dave to make them all linked and function in the same way.

Try looking for the CSR 700SA lamp on the GE website and getting any useful information about it. Than given it's not listed in the crap advertising data about the lamp type in the part number 15380 and see where you get in a few months when they update the website for new lamps. Such actual spec information as opposed to some sales flyer often with hopeful but not realistic info are much more of value.

In any case, I found the manual I consider of most value on the subject:

The Osram like many lamp company sites is wacky in that there is at least three of them. Unfortunately the link I have to them at work which links me direct to a search feature, at home is more useful for the product news and hard to find the search much less lamp you are looking for. Without a specific link to the Broadway line from Philips, it’s also impossible to find it off the normal website for instance.

Here is a better link, it’s part of the Sylvania catalog instead:
http://ecom.mysylvania.com/sylvania...d=ID4001DB0.261765185897212End;sapj2ee_*=4001 or Www.sylvania.com Hit USA for a place to search. Go to Product Catalogs. Click on Search & Browse. Click on Search Catalog. Type in either product number 54057 or change the search type to order abbreviation with a EVC typed below it.

The link that should pop up is http://ecom.mysylvania.com/sylvaniab2c/b2c/z_login.do

Click on it and you get the lamp specifications. Scroll down to Product Documents, Graphs and Images and click on it. There is the PDF file under a “Engineering Bulletin.”

Well worth the effort if hard to find. This is a free masterwork on lamps in my opinion.

You know, there is one major advantage to Windows XP, a PC over a Mac even laptop. I have a dual monitor on my computer. Makes following directions or typing while reading from so much more easy. Don't know how I ever lived without one.
 
Thanks Ship - have it now!
 

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