A
halogen lamp is a
tungsten filament incandescent lamp with
Halogen gasses such as Iodine or Bromine in addition to others including the Argon and other gasses normally associated as noble elements with resisting the burn out of the
filament due to a heavy atomosphere resistant to burning. This allows the
filament to be operated at higher temperatures and efficiencies in that the spent/burned off
tungsten from the
filament instead of depositing itself on the side of the
bulb instead gets intercepted by the
halogen "
effect" gasses within the mixture, than is re-deposited upon the hottest source in the lamp - the
filament. It's thus a circle
effect with the lamp burning hot, burning off it's
filament, but that spent
filament being replentished upon the same when it's run the "
halogen effect" course of cooling and re-deposting. For the most part at least. Given the gas deposits the spent
tungsten particles on the hottest source of heat, what wears away from the cooler parts of the
filament such as at the ends of the
filament, does not get as much re-stocked thus they often will burn up at the same rate.
More specifically, a
halogen lamp is a lamp with this filler material as opposed to that and Krypton or Xenon added also to the filler which have their own advantages but expense when used in combination with the
halogen gasses will boost performance more yet. The
halogen lamp in burning hotter but being replentished does not care much about the shape of lamp given it's sized to stay hot enough for the
effect to take place, thus it's in used in many forms of
bulb either by way of a
bulb small enough to retain heat sufficient for the
effect to take place, or within a inner capsule of heat retention but also within a larger
bulb assembly thus
PAR lamp. Many
PAR lamps and similar larger lamps use a inner
halogen filament area capsule in retaining the heat around the
filament but also being within an outer
bulb assembly that performs as needed including if it has a
reflector around
the light source.
Halogen as a statement is not a differentuation as opposed to
PAR lamp. A
PAR shape is a
globe type, a
Halogen lamp is a statement of what's within that shape and going on with burning brighter in re-plentishing the otherwise normal
incandescent filament as it gets hot and burns up.
The length of time it takes any
fixture to come to full depends upon the resistance of the
filament and to some degree it's convection properties as a whole as reflected in that lamps's general size and proximity of one part of the
filament to another wrap of it's coil in gaining extra heat to make the whole of the
bulb warm up faster, but the more metal necessary to heat up, the longer it will take to heat up. It's thus also a factor of
filament length or size in relation to wattage thus resistance necessary for a certain
filament size. In any case given the same wattage of lamp, a linear
filament such as both on your
PAR ane
Cyc lamps will warm up micro seconds slower than a
filament grid type assembly such as on a
Leko where one length of
filament is twisted and folded to be right next to another part of the
filament thus warming each other.
The length of the
wire thus in part resistance or wattage also plays a factor. The shorter the
wire, the sooner it heats up due to resistance. Resistance is sort of a complex formula but remember that the higher the wattage of lamp, the less resistance to the flow of
current within it such a
filament has. Should you short a
wire, it's going to burn much brighter for an instance than a high resistance 15w lamp. On the other
hand, given filaments provide light due to that
wire within them getting white hot, the larger but lower resistance lamps need a both longer
filament if not thicker one to provide that source of light sufficient to the wattage and resistance. In other words, actual resistance is different than wattage as a statement of work done but commonly also figured as resistance to load as it is in many ways.
A way around all of these wattage/type of lamp problems is to first ensure that the
trim settings in warming the
filament even if your board says they are "off", are set properly. The
dimmer that when at zero is actually at zero is a
dimmer that is out of alignment. All
stage and studio dimmers provide a warming
current to the lamps so that they don't just blow up due to cold
shock from going from cold to instantly hot. This percent of the voltlage is about 13% when show to be at zero. Your board might say Zero, but the lamp is getting
voltage anyway to warm and prep it's
filament for getting very hot in too short amount of time.
This in answer of loading and
fixture speed at coming to full can be refined for a higher wattage load by adjusting the
dimmer's
trim setting to some
level while at zero at the
dimmer are actually at up to 25% in not showing they are lighting the target, but still have some induced at this
point quite a
bit of induced
voltage upon them to warm them for a quicker start up. The other more sensible way would be to use your cues to warm them. Given the
cue before they are needed to jump to full, what if you were to install a
level on the dimmers for these fxtures a percent of the
fader sufficient that the
PAR lamps now in being on, don't have enough intenstiy to mess with or be observed in your design.
This
cue of added
voltage to further warm the
filament of your lamps will ensure a quicker start up time given the
filament is already somewhat hot. Such
trim settings however reduce the maximum amount of output given it's lowest
voltage setting is moved upwards. Say on a
dimmer, it's
voltage is when trimmed from 12% to 102% as a
dimmer range pre-programmed into it for zero
thru 90 as just being the range of control. Should you boost up that warming
current output, it's overall
intensity will be reduced by being at full but the
dimmer set for less than full at it's maximum setting but it still warming the
filament The Zero
thru FF on the board will instead of being around 10%
voltage to warm the
filament, instead you could just adjust the
dimmer upwards given a cut off output of 100% no matter how efficient of the
fixture given it's voltlage is static.
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The DYS lamp by memory has a GY 9.5 lamp
base, the
PAR 64 lamp has a GX-16d lamp
base. Yep they are different and the
PAR 64 for the most part is almost an
Edison based lamp in shape. In any case, the DYS plugs into the lamp
base provided with the ray light kit thus it being a ray light kit. Now what do you think that ray light kit plugs into for
power???
In the case of old ray lights, they have two wires hanging off the rear of them which necessitate removing the lPar 64 amp
base from the
fixture to
wire it up, but in the case of more modern Ray Light kits, there is a lamp
base similar to those used on a
PAR 64 lamp at the
base of it which plugs directly into the GX-16d lamp
base provided with the
fixture. Thus my
point about removing the "ray light kit" - not just the lamp and installing the
PAR lamp into it.
(
PAR 64) "they can be dimmed by the crossfaders, but the individual
channel seems to either be full on or full off....but, Fresnels will dim just fine! (and, i've moved the fresnels' around a little, it doens'tmatter what channelt hey are in,t hey always dim, and the pars or
leko's in that same
channel won't...) "
Expecting that the cross faders are working as the Master
fader and not indidual
dimmer faders, this is a complex question.
Your question seems to be other than the issue of lamps
fitting into
fixture's at
hand. This is a
dimmer problem it would seem that needs some details to answer such as the wattage of the dimmers, load on them, it's maintinence and service
call program and a lot of more details. My guess is that there is too much wattage on the dimmers and they will only go on and off in being overloaded but the
circuit protection is not
tripping given the overload. This would be the classic example at least as described in an overloaded
dimmer situation. The other option would be that the fixtures going only on and off are of too little wattage for the
dimmer to notice, but that's probably doubtful.
It could also be something to do with the
trim setting on your dimmers given a much higher wattage of the other fixtures in comparison to the
Fresnel fixtures. A lower wattage lamp might show more variance in dimming than a higher wattage load given the same
dimmer. Given your Lekos and
PAR's are a lighter load on the dimmers than the Fresnels, it might be possible that they are dimming but the rate is just not noted.
This also can be the case with cheap dimmers in that while rated for a certain wattage they are either blown out in continuing to service a larger load or the can no longer handle in dimming the larger load thus just go on and off. In any case, the dimmers don't care what the load is
Leko,
Fresnel or
PAR, I expect if you loaded up your
dimmer with a bunch of Fresnels, it would have the same problem with them in similar loads.
Going back to the
halogen verses
PAR question, a
dimmer does not magically detect "this is a
Fresnel and we like them" in choosing to go on and off verses dim for them as a proper
dimmer might. A
dimmer dims given it is not malfunctioning. When detected to malfunction no matter what's plugged into it, it is not a cause for just using it and accepting that some things dim and some don't, it's a cause for getting that
dimmer in for repair ASAP as it might start a fire at some
point. This is either a
dimmer module burning out type of thing or at leas an overload.