Control/Dimming Atomic 3000 Test Points

[mcj]

For me I almost test all the points around the suspected blown components area...you can also try a live test with power put Take a Great Care cos the probe usually slip and pomp to each other cosing very nice sound and light effect

I ordered a new board that I tried on the defect atomic. But I was surprized that the same randomly weak flashes still there, exept that nothing to see on the bulb.
So I checked the cables, screwed on firmly and now works nicely. Maybe it was the root problem?
Then I swaped again the boards. Still same erratic working, but now "weak flashes" are at full intensity.
I keep on searching to have a spare board if repairing successful. So from what I understand, IC105 control the lengh and IC114 trigger the strobe, right? What about the intensity?
If I want to safely analyse signal from TP1, TP3, TP4... What about an isolation transformer with the usb oscilloscope?

 

[macdiv]

I ordered a new board that I tried on the defect atomic. But I was surprized that the same randomly weak flashes still there, exept that nothing to see on the bulb.
So I checked the cables, screwed on firmly and now works nicely. Maybe it was the root problem?
Then I swaped again the boards. Still same erratic working, but now "weak flashes" are at full intensity.
I keep on searching to have a spare board if repairing successful. So from what I understand, IC105 control the lengh and IC114 trigger the strobe, right? What about the intensity?
If I want to safely analyse signal from TP1, TP3, TP4... What about an isolation transformer with the usb oscilloscope?

Oh oh ...I really don't know the TP spects to proceed for it nor a way to do isolated test ... sorry for that ...but her in the booth there are a lot of experts and genuis that could help ....ihop that they can read this thread

 

[n1ist]

Anything on the left of the red line in this schematic is not isolated from the AC line; you MUST use isolation to probe on this side. Even with isolation, voltages there can be lethal, and there are a lot of large capacitors that will store that for a while.
On the high voltage side, much is referenced to LINE with a 20V rail below that. To do it safely, I would use a high voltage differential probe. An isolation transformer would also work (or a USB scope with a rated USB isolator) as long as you watch for the voltage *between* the points you are measuring - as above, most of the time you will be measuring between the AC line and the testpoint)
This is a rather dangerous circuit to be poking around in.
/mike

 

[SteveP]

Hey all -- I just purchased 2 Atomic 3000's and converted them from 220v to 110v. Installed the jumper correctly and have the correct bulb (waiting on the correct bulb mounts). Testing these in stand alone mode, everything works fine on both except for the blinder function. It will come on bright then slowly fade in about 2-3 seconds. Thinking this was due to the long Edison I was using I plugged it directly into the wall with the same result. For snickers I installed the 220 bulb with the same result (only the light was not as bright).

I'm assuming the lamp should come on bright and stay bright for a bit. Every other function works correctly until I put dip switch 9 on with the rest off.

Also when is the fan supposed to come on? When the fixture is first plugged in the fan does cycle for a second then turns off. Again both units are like this; just wondering if this is normal.

Any comments, suggestions or help will be greatly appreciated. TIA == Steve

 

[matis]

I ordered a new board that I tried on the defect atomic. But I was surprized that the same randomly weak flashes still there, exept that nothing to see on the bulb.
So I checked the cables, screwed on firmly and now works nicely. Maybe it was the root problem?
Then I swaped again the boards. Still same erratic working, but now "weak flashes" are at full intensity.
I keep on searching to have a spare board if repairing successful. So from what I understand, IC105 control the lengh and IC114 trigger the strobe, right? What about the intensity?
If I want to safely analyse signal from TP1, TP3, TP4... What about an isolation transformer with the usb oscilloscope?

IC114 and Q104 is a dimmer, from ic105 to Q102 is a trigger. If q104 is damage, lamp flashing full of intensity.

 

[Paul Scott]

First I would like to thank you all for figuring out this particular problem with the Atomic 3000. I am experiencing the exact same issue, where the fan comes on for just a few seconds, and the fixture does not fire after that. I am ready to replace the components suggested above, but am wondering where you purchase them? They are not easy to find online actually. Any ideas? Please let me know. Thank you very much!