# Building and rigging the best YouTube set

#### Vivilama

##### Member
Hello folks,
Not sure if a complete noob (I myself), am welcome to start a thread like this on here.

My name is Vito (41). Italien born in Germany now living in Japan. I am a CG animator and compositing tutor on YouTube. With the birth of my daughter somehow I felt the urge to do something more meaningful with my life. That’s why I have started delving into many topics which had either scared me or which I found to hard ( too technical) to understand.
One of those Endeavors is to teach on YouTube but in a way that is absolutely me. I had decided to give my channel a new spin by teaching using a pirate theme. But that means i needed a proper set. A pirateship’s quarters.

If I am allowed I would like to share my progress here and hopefully by the point I set out to light this thing, your experience will proof invaluable, I have no doubt. Speaking of lighting, I have recently read the book “Set Lighting Technician’s Handbook. It is such a profound book but proofs that experience in most cases is everything. Experience which I don’t have in this area.
But hopefully I can learn enough to bring my vision to life. So a few months ago I started to build my set. I live in a rental place so that makes things a bit more complicated.

Here a few photos:

A typical Japanese room.

Unfortunately I am not allowed to drill holes into the walls. Walls which are really thin and would need soundproofing. For a reason I don’t know I skipped that part and I know I will regret it later. Writing this while listening to the sound of the Japanese cicada

The gaps in the floor panels were supposed to give access to cables underneath. I was gonna align them perpendicular to the camera which due to the angle wouldn’t be visible. Good thought but not well thought through ( slap in my face) design-wise I decided to align them pointing towards the camera which was a big time failure. So later I closed the gaps again.

The basic frame with the original Japanese windows ( Shoji).

Pirate ship windows at the rear of the ship are angled. So I was looking for a way to take the original windows ( without damaging them) and angle them. It wasn’t that hard to do, but soon I realized they just don’t look medieval.

Cardboard to get a feeling of how arcs would look.

yap, definitely arcs. But wait! Isn’t that gonna be a hell of a lot of work? I had no experience in wood work etc.but I knew bending woods isn’t gonna be easy and involves something like a pressure chamber. Yeah right! After doing a lot of research and looking at my budget I decided to go with a simple and cheesy solution. Hey I am courageous but I ain’t crazy!

Proprietary wood press

I used the same stencil I cut the arc front with to actually press wet thin plywood. Worked like a charm. Did I say wet? Yes I did. My fiancé wasn’t happy to share the bathtub with the plywoods. Me thought it surly had a nice scent.

I mean sometimes more has got to be better!

One finished window frame.

You know that feeling when you look at it and you are super happy, although you have no clue how you did, but you actually did it. And then you realize, there are 3 more to go.
A carpenter can just laugh at this I know. But I am surprised what one, without experience, can achieve if he/she puts the mind into something ( best with exit door locked or welded shut)
For me, if there is a lesson to learn from all this, then it is that.

To be continued....

#### Crisp image

##### Well-Known Member
Welcome aboard me hearty to the world of control booth. You will have may question and we will have many answers. There are some things we cant tell you about due to safety reasons and the need to be qualified to work on Electrical and rigging stuff but the rest is good.
You have made a great start to your set and I look forward to seeing it progress and be finished.

Regards
Geoff

#### Vivilama

##### Member
Welcome aboard me hearty to the world of control booth. You will have may question and we will have many answers. There are some things we cant tell you about due to safety reasons and the need to be qualified to work on Electrical and rigging stuff but the rest is good.
You have made a great start to your set and I look forward to seeing it progress and be finished.

Regards
Geoff
Thanks a bunch Geoff. Ye words appreciated!
I have been working in front of the PC all my life but I feel that within I am someone who likes to use his hands to create tangible things. So this journey is like a fresh breeze of air.

I completely understand about the safety issues, no problem there. I won’t be asking how to use an carbon arc light in a house made of wood and paper

May the Rum be with ye me matey!

Vito

#### Vivilama

##### Member
Ahoy there,

I found these curtain rail holder at an antique shop which is very rare in Japan. They were so cheap ( about 15$each) that I couldn’t resist even though I have no clue where to put them. I add some gold paint to it and voila... liking it. They also had a beautiful treasure chest for a whooping 350$....

to be continued....

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#### Van

##### CBMod
CB Mods
Welcome Aboard!
As it just so Happens my Wife is a 'Special Needs Educator' and her whole teaching scheme is based on "Pirates". the kids love it and she get's to wear silly hats once in a while.

#### Vivilama

##### Member
Ahoy,
Just some quick shots!
I am planing to go with a chiaroscuro lighting and this leads me to think that the dark brown wood is going to be too dark, almost black.

After doing some research and studying I came across a few interesting images I’d like to keep in the back of my head as references/inspiration.

Although I like the contrast ratio. I feel the faces are to hot. The main light would probably be something like a torch or candles on the right side of desk with sunlight coming in from the window’s left side.

Looks like fire from a fireplace?

I am loving everything about the scene below. Contrast ratio, light direction and layout, bounce from the desk to the skin ( although it could be the candlelight) , haze and color scheme. This make me wonder if I should avoid dark brown wood and make paint it brighter so I can use a low exposure with a lot of light and still capture some of the background details.

I also think that I need to remove the Japanese paper from the windows as to let in more light ( artificial light). I was thinking on using mirrors to direct the sunlight into the room but since I have never done this, I worry that it won’t be very reliable to count on nature.
Still doing some research on how to simulate sunlight on a low budget. I have a feeling I will need a power generator
I was given 3 stage lights, 2x500W and 1x1000W. I measured the lux of the 500W combined and got about 30000-50000 lux measured at close range set to spot. Unfortunately the throw isn’t that great. But again I am not experienced. I will post on this subject later.

To be continued....

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#### Vivilama

##### Member
Welcome Aboard!
As it just so Happens my Wife is a 'Special Needs Educator' and her whole teaching scheme is based on "Pirates". the kids love it and she get's to wear silly hats once in a while.
Thanks Van,
I am sure the kids love it Although far from the truth, Pirates are synonymous for adventure, exploration, treasure ( knowledge) hunt, courage and much more. I felt it suits a learning channel perfectly ( or in your wife’s case, teaching) . Learning means to conquer new territories, to sail the seven seas

#### Ben Stiegler

##### Well-Known Member
Ahoy,
Just some quick shots!
I am planing to go with a chiaroscuro lighting and this leads me to think that the dark brown wood is going to be too dark, almost black. View attachment 20508
View attachment 20514After doing some research and studying I came across a few interesting images I’d like to keep in the back of my head as references/inspiration.
View attachment 20511
Although I like the contrast ratio. I feel the faces are to hot. The main light would probably be something like a torch or candles on the right side of desk with sunlight coming in from the window’s left side.
View attachment 20510
Looks like fire from a fireplace?

I am loving everything about the scene below. Contrast ratio, light direction and layout, bounce from the desk to the skin ( although it could be the candlelight) , haze and color scheme. This make me wonder if I should avoid dark brown wood and make paint it brighter so I can use a low exposure with a lot of light and still capture some of the background details.
View attachment 20512
I also think that I need to remove the Japanese paper from the windows as to let in more light ( artificial light). I was thinking on using mirrors to direct the sunlight into the room but since I have never done this, I worry that it won’t be very reliable to count on nature.
Still doing some research on how to simulate sunlight on a low budget. I have a feeling I will need a power generator
I was given 3 stage lights, 2x500W and 1x1000W. I measured the lux of the 500W combined and got about 30000-50000 lux measured at close range set to spot. Unfortunately the throw isn’t that great. But again I am not experienced. I will post on this subject later.

To be continued....
I wouldn't get attached to those lights ... think lower end LED and get rid of the hot, power hungry lights and the whole generator line of thinking.

macsound

#### Vivilama

##### Member
I wouldn't get attached to those lights ... think lower end LED and get rid of the hot, power hungry lights and the whole generator line of thinking.
Hey Ben,
Which LED would you recommend? With lower-end LED I worry about flicker in camera weird color bleeding plus weird shadows.
As far as I understood they need to be 50/60Hz so I can shoot with 24Fps and 180shutter. Are there affordable super bright LEDs?
Will they be adequate for simulating sunlight ( to some extent) ?

I would be happy if I could avoid those power hungry lights indeed.

Budget wise I could get an Apurture C300d.
But I wonder if its better used as a key light.
Not sure if this light is over hyped or not.

#### macsound

##### Well-Known Member
When working with lighting, it's all about the comparison between the lights that makes something perceived as brighter.
You could have a 1w, 3w, and 7w LED flashlight and obviously the 7w would seem the brightest and could be setup as the "sun" through a window. Just maybe a small window.

With video, you're going to have to deal with the camera and lens's abilities.
So figure out with a couple of cheap floodlights you already own and your light meter to see how the minimum and maximum amount light you need to make your camera happy. Then you'll understand your camera's dynamic range.
No matter how much money you're spending or what creative choices you're making, you'll need to get the lighting of your set and subjects to live within that dynamic range.

Also, if you find a cool light, stick it in front of your camera and see how it looks. Don't stick yourself in the corner of needing "pro" gear because christmas will come and you'll want to put some christmas lights up but will never find a box that says "flicker free guaranteed for video"