building your own clearcom/telex head set
- Thread starterkoncept
- Start date
On a female XLR connector (as used on a CC compatible headset), the "pins" looking at you, the numbers go clockwise from the upper right, so:
4--------1
---3--2---
On a male XLR connector (as for Telex/RTS), they go counter-clockwise.
If you look real closely, the numbers are molded right next to the pins on the connection side of the connector (ie, not the side with the solder cups).
--A
4--------1
---3--2---
On a male XLR connector (as for Telex/RTS), they go counter-clockwise.
If you look real closely, the numbers are molded right next to the pins on the connection side of the connector (ie, not the side with the solder cups).
--A
One guy i was talking to last night said that positive and negative didn't matter. But when I tried my headset today it didn't work. I know I put the wires in the right spot, just maybe got the positive and negative mixed up.
Is my friend right? Positive and Negative don't matter? Or did I screw up somewhere else?
Is my friend right? Positive and Negative don't matter? Or did I screw up somewhere else?
SketchyCroftPpl
Active Member
I think they do matter, because the box for the headset is expecting the inputs on a certain channel so if you switch that, it won't be looking to the right spot. It may not matter it seems on a 3-Pin XLR where if you look it up and its just a peaker I believe or a mic there are more than 1 way that you can wire the ground and the hot, but it would seem that switching them where you have a mic and a headphone speaker would make a difference.
Box 1 is expecting voice in over pin 1 so it can send it out to box two over pin 3 but if the voice comes in over pin 2 it sitts there waiting for it to come in and nothing happens. Ask your friend specifically what type of wire he means.
~Nick
Box 1 is expecting voice in over pin 1 so it can send it out to box two over pin 3 but if the voice comes in over pin 2 it sitts there waiting for it to come in and nothing happens. Ask your friend specifically what type of wire he means.
~Nick
SketchyCroftPpl
Active Member
That would be awesome, is there any chance you could take a picture of the internals of the plug or anything? Our headsets are wicked crappy and falling apart and my TD REALLY liked the idea of being able to build some new ones, but I want to have a clear idea of what I'm asking him to let me try before I propose taking home the headset and actually doing it to a new one.
~Nick
~Nick
SketchyCroftPpl
Active Member
Good Idea. This is a more random question but how do you make the text where if you scroll over it, it shows you a question mark and will give you the deff of the word, it seems very usefull.
I'm trying to cut out having to order anything, and our headsets are seriously so shot to hell we have ones handing on the wall I don't even know why because the speaker plate is gone, mic is hanging, and you can't see or hear anything. plus then I've got extra cable and the plug, I just wonder how hard it will be to disconnect the old connections from the pins.
~Nick
I'm trying to cut out having to order anything, and our headsets are seriously so shot to hell we have ones handing on the wall I don't even know why because the speaker plate is gone, mic is hanging, and you can't see or hear anything. plus then I've got extra cable and the plug, I just wonder how hard it will be to disconnect the old connections from the pins.
~Nick
SketchyCroftPpl
Active Member
So your saying, *I'm on 5 hrs of sleep and 4 hrs of rehersal with noisy 8th gradaers* instead of actually re-wiring the plug it may be easier to simply cut the wire and cut the end off of the new headset and then solder the old wired to the new wired and then use tape or w/e over the connection?
~Nick
EDIT:
Just an afterthought, has anyone actually done this and gotten it to work yet?
~Nick
EDIT:
Just an afterthought, has anyone actually done this and gotten it to work yet?
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