Cam-Lok E1015 series

[JD]

And, there are many legal applications for this connector where it is used inside a Listed piece of equipment

Ahh! So that's how the Carnival companies get away with it! I noticed that they almost exclusively use mini cams on the ends of 6/4 ride runs, and yet pass inspection on a weekly basis. The trick is that all the connections are made inside the water resistant distro cabinets and only the sheathed 6/4 SO cable exits once the distros are closed and locked.

 

[ac30boy]

Cam-Lok E1015 newbie trying to assemble connectors

Hi Guys,

I'm a cam-lok newbie trying to attach them to #4 wire (the largest size that part accommodates). The operative word is *trying*.

If I understand the instructions correctly I should be able to pass the wire with jacket intact from the wire end of the connector all the way through to the conductor side where you would subsequently attach the conductor (and of course, used the copper wire and shim) before pulling/pushing the conductor into the jacket aligned so that the rivet slides into the slot in the plastic ring inside.

This all makes perfect sense - but when I try to pass the jacketed wire through it stops at a "bump" (a ring that's part of the molded insulator sleeve) that apparently keeps the plastic ring from sliding out the back of the of the cam-lok. Does anyone know if the jacketed cable is actually suppose to pass all the way through to the connector side, or does it need to be stripped more than what the intructions say (only 5/8" for the shim). It seems as though it would take an extraordinary amount of force for the jacket to get pass the bump, if it's possible at all without damaging something.

Anyone have experience/knowledge of this they can share?

Btw - hello, JD! We once met at McManus Enterprises in Bala Cynwyd around 1980-1981. You explained to me how a delta-wye configuration worked.

Regards to all,
Tom

 

[STEVETERRY]

re: Cam-Lok E1015 newbie trying to assemble connectors

Hi Guys,

I'm a cam-lok newbie trying to attach them to #4 wire (the largest size that part accommodates). The operative word is *trying*.

If I understand the instructions correctly I should be able to pass the wire with jacket intact from the wire end of the connector all the way through to the conductor side where you would subsequently attach the conductor (and of course, used the copper wire and shim) before pulling/pushing the conductor into the jacket aligned so that the rivet slides into the slot in the plastic ring inside.

This all makes perfect sense - but when I try to pass the jacketed wire through it stops at a "bump" (a ring that's part of the molded insulator sleeve) that apparently keeps the plastic ring from sliding out the back of the of the cam-lok. Does anyone know if the jacketed cable is actually suppose to pass all the way through to the connector side, or does it need to be stripped more than what the intructions say (only 5/8" for the shim). It seems as though it would take an extraordinary amount of force for the jacket to get pass the bump, if it's possible at all without damaging something.

Anyone have experience/knowledge of this they can share?

Btw - hello, JD! We once met at McManus Enterprises in Bala Cynwyd around 1980-1981. You explained to me how a delta-wye configuration worked.

Regards to all,
Tom

What type of cable are you using?

ST

 

[FatherMurphy]

re: Cam-Lok E1015 newbie trying to assemble connectors

As I understand your question, you're having trouble getting the jacket/shell onto the cable before doing any of the stripping or assembling of the contact, possibly because the wire you're using has a bit more insulation than normal for that wire gauge.

They do sell a lubricant formulated for the plastics involved, which could help.

The only other suggestion I have is beveling the edge of the strip slightly, so it ramps past the inside corner it's currently catching on (like sharpening a pencil). You DON'T want to overstrip, especially when you're using the 'largest size wire for this connector', since you'll be shortening the length of the tapered boot of the jacket to accept the wire to begin with. The copper wire is there to prevent the cable jacket from milking down the copper and exposing the bare copper outside the shell.

The real fun begins when you go to pull the shell over the contact and snap that nylon ring around the pin....

 

[ac30boy]

re: Cam-Lok E1015 newbie trying to assemble connectors

Steve, thanks for your interest. it's "Dura-Flex" #4 - the precise type I believe is "CC"? When I get home I can verify and provide more info.

Tom

 

[ac30boy]

re: Cam-Lok E1015 newbie trying to assemble connectors

FatherMurphy,

You are correct although the insulator has cutoffs to allow for this size of cable, it's inside where you run into trouble. A smaller jacket, say, on a #6 wire, would probably clear the ring that precedes the plastic piece. I'm thinking of calling Cooper Crouse-Hinds and hoping a tech support person will confirm the best/accepted approach - they had to have crossed this bridge before if they spec the connector for #4 wire. Of course, could it be the jacket on the Dura-flex wire I'm using exceeds what they ordinarily expect for outside diameter? This is new territory for me - I always purchased manufactured cable before, but would like the flexibility of building/maintaining them.

- Tom

 

[JD]

re: Cam-Lok E1015 newbie trying to assemble connectors

Wow, your memory is better than mine!

Anyway, the cable type may be some of the problem. Generally, type SC or SCE is what should be used. The old catch 22 of the E1015 is that you should not use smaller then #2 as single conductors in stage use, and #4 is about the biggest thing that fits in the E1015. The standard connector to use is the E1016 which fits up to 4/0. One other advantage is that almost any company switch you run into that has cam-locs is equipped with the E1016 series.

Oops! Let me correct this on behalf of all of us before Derek gets mad- Wire! We are talking about wire. A cable is a group of wires in a single jacket.

 

[STEVETERRY]

re: Cam-Lok E1015 newbie trying to assemble connectors

As I understand your question, you're having trouble getting the jacket/shell onto the cable before doing any of the stripping or assembling of the contact, possibly because the wire you're using has a bit more insulation than normal for that wire gauge.

They do sell a lubricant formulated for the plastics involved, which could help.

The only other suggestion I have is beveling the edge of the strip slightly, so it ramps past the inside corner it's currently catching on (like sharpening a pencil). You DON'T want to overstrip, especially when you're using the 'largest size wire for this connector', since you'll be shortening the length of the tapered boot of the jacket to accept the wire to begin with. The copper wire is there to prevent the cable jacket from milking down the copper and exposing the bare copper outside the shell.

The real fun begins when you go to pull the shell over the contact and snap that nylon ring around the pin....

To ease installation of the insulator to the contact, use a Crouse-Hinds T-Handle Come-along tool, Part number A2000020-1 for male and A2000020-2 for female. Also, get some A101208 lubricant to make it go together smoothly.

IMHO, if you got the wire through the cable entry of the insulator, it should get by the ring with enough persuasion and lube.

Are you using these in a Theatre (an NEC Article 520 venue)? If so, you can only use them on grounding conductors down to #6 AWG--otherwise you need to be at #2AWG or larger for single conductor cables--which dictates E1016 rather than E1015 connectors.

ST

 

[ship]

Re: Cam-Lok E1015 newbie trying to assemble connectors

What brand of plug are you using? Normally they are say for a ECT 16 series from Leviton sized in plug as either #2-2/0 or 2/0 thru 4/0. Interesting this feeder cable from Creative Stage Lighting is larger than will fit at #4 assuming normally on a CamLoc type plug its stated wire gauge is one size for say type W feeder over what you are using in the norm of type SC in OD. of the cable. Recently read about a new feeder cable but forgot who made it, thanks for the "this is the one I read about."

Still though on a boot (outer shell of the plug) it should have been a few cutoffs marked on it to which you can cut for the size of jacket you are using. If using 4/0 SC cable on a normal plug you cut the boot to 3/0 size in actual size of the cable. It than slips on properly with or without denatured alcohol, wire lube or even WD-40.

Boots once on the cable once cut to outer jacket size the lest of the problem, often even a connector sized for up to #2 cable will in set screw bottom out in set screw before it gets to a proper hold on the cable. Often when doing smaller than listed size cable or even the smallest size of cable I find that I need to shim up that cable installed so as to fit the connector. This could range from a bunch of #12 solid wire shoved into the plug hole as filler to extra or thicker copper foil wraps of the wire. Depends on the situation as long as you are torque wrenching I believe to the norm of 120 foot pounds as needed to the set screws. I normally do 125# as a base for strands of wire settling.

Overall concept is that once you get to the brass, either for #2 or smaller, you need to add filler so as not to bottom out the set screw before it homes in on proper tension.

This and the 14ga. wire strain relief is really really important to do properly. Too loose and the outer protection jacket cable slips and fails, too tight by way or more than say half sunk in depth on the outer jacket and it breaks.

Twist too tight and it breaks, front tip of the linesmens pliers too sharp and it cuts if a need for even putting them on a wire wheel to a grinder and rounding out that front edge before use.

Anyway as a general concept, its possible that the OD of this cable is larger than will fit inside the boot. There should be some notches on that boot, find the next notch and cut to the next size if it don't fit.

Also remember that if doing something not specifically trained in... one should seek out qualified inspection training and observation over what you are doing. I do it, you also have to when not absolutely sure on stuff. Eyes on site cannot be replaced by on-line advise.

 

[ac30boy]

Re: Cam-Lok E1015 newbie trying to assemble connectors

Gentlemen,

All of your replies are greatly appreciated. A few more pieces of info (now that I'm home and staring at the wire and E1015's:
1. The wire is type SC - I assume that implies a standard jacket size for #4 wire?
2. I will be using this for sound system power distro - it's inadequate for lighting. I apologize to anyone who believes I'm mis-posting by using this board, but lighting guys know boatloads more about power distribution than your average sound guy (like me).
3. I did cut the entry point on the wire side of the insulator and the wire passes through their with a very reasonable amount of effort, especially if I apply a little liquid soap. That was the recommendation right from the installation instructions from Crouse-Hinds, but I would be glad to get the lubricant and come-along tool. I'm a little hesitant to shave off some of the jacket if I can somehow get it to pass the ring.
4. JD - I did intentionally get the E1015's because the E1016's required larger gauge wire than I own or planned to get soon. Hopefully, I wasn't being pennywise and pound foolish? When full-out I currently take out 2 Macrotech 3600's, an XTI4000, and an ITech4000 - plus, I will use the distribution for band backline use. When I go out to do smaller venues and quiter bands I found that I can easily run one Macrotech and the XTI off of a wall outlet when running no lower than 4 ohms/side and I see 120+ volts at idle.

If I can provide any more info that would help let me know.

Regards,
Tom

 

[LightStud]

Re: Cam-Lok E1015 newbie trying to assemble connectors

I did intentionally get the E1015's because the E1016's required larger gauge wire than I own or planned to get soon. Hopefully, I wasn't being pennywise and pound foolish?

Regarding the use of single pole connectors, NEC Article 520 stubbornly makes no exceptions for either noise boys or intended load, and an electrical inspector won't either.

In this application, the connectors are wrong, as is the wire.

 

[FatherMurphy]

Re: Cam-Lok E1015 newbie trying to assemble connectors

Just for the record, my comment about the tapered boot size was intended to go with the caution about overstripping, since when the boot is cut for the largest wire, it's at its shortest length, thus providing the least amount of protection.

As for 'sharpening' the insulation, I generally put the shell on first, then strip, so the thinned portion would be removed during stripping. Stripping first usually just leads to the strands getting bent and makes them lay in the contact socket less politely.

 

[ac30boy]

Re: Cam-Lok E1015 newbie trying to assemble connectors

LightStud,

Are you saying the code is in reference to both fixed installations as well as temporary (portable)? And, is limited to theatrical environments or any place of assembly? I had a construction codes course many years ago when I was working on a certificate in construction management, but we didn't spend much time on the electrical codes - most of the time was on structure-related codes.

 

[derekleffew]

Re: Cam-Lok E1015 newbie trying to assemble connectors

ac30boy, see this thread: Cam-Lok E1015 series. (In fact, merging this thread with that one.)

This and the above 12 posts have been moved here from another location.

 

[ac30boy]

Re: Cam-Lok E1015 newbie trying to assemble connectors

Anyone looking for a great deal on some E1015 connectors and #4 wire? ;->

 

[JD]

Actually, it is a shame you didn't drop by here first. Most sound guys that I know use 6/4 (single phase) or 6/5 (three phase) cable and pin & sleeve connectors (4 or 5 pin as needed.) This may actually have been a cheaper way to go. It is important to know that this type of setup is designed to be post power distro so that current is limited for the wire gauge. You would of course NEVER want to have a 6/4 cable tied directly to a 200 amp disconnect! Beyond that, TOS does not allow us to instruct or give electrical advice. (In fact I might be pushing that already.) So, I will leave you with this, hopefully within TOS statement: Contact a qualified person (as specified by the NEC) and indicate what you need, and ask about basing the system on multi-cable and pin & sleeve connectors.

The #4 cable should be easy to sell as it is used in ground applications. Carnival companies use a lot of the E1015's (don't ask) so if you have one local, they might have interest. Of course there is always Ebay.