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Changing a mirror on a scanner

Discussion in 'Lighting and Electrics' started by JohnA, Nov 8, 2007.

  1. JohnA

    JohnA Active Member

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    Occupation:
    Lighting Designer/Technical Consultant
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    Greetings to all,

    I have an Amenrican DJ Accu Scan 250, which is a 250w discharge lamp "lower end" scanner. The mirror has cracked on the unit--but the unit wss NOT dropped. I have a replacement mirror on the way, but need any tips concerning removal of the old/installation of the new. I would be grateful for any suggestions (other than contactng AMDJ please).
    Thanks--John A
     
  2. BillESC

    BillESC Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    I'm not certain but if it is like most ADJ scanners it is a replacement assembly. usually an Allen wrench is used to loosen one or two set screws and the assembly slides of the motor.
     
  3. muvment

    muvment Active Member

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    I would recommend getting a hammer, bashing off the mirror, than beating the whole unit until it is bruised. Then throw it in a dumpster and buy a quality fixture.

    I'm kidding, I'm kidding. I have no idea how to help you. I just wanted to be a smartass.
     
  4. icewolf08

    icewolf08 CBMod CB Mods

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    Feeling destructive today?

    Anywho, it is probably relatively simple to replace the mirror. It will most likely either be hex keys like was mentioned earlier, or a couple screws, and that it. Mirrors are usually pretty easy to replace.
     
  5. stantonsound

    stantonsound Active Member

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    With most lower end fixtures, the mirror is just glued on. Get some "Goo Be Gone" or a similar adhesive remover, and it should just come of. Then, clean it really well and superglue the crap out of it!
     
  6. Footer

    Footer Senior Team Senior Team Premium Member

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    Just wait untill you get the new mirror. If it comes with a bracket, its a simple bolt/unbolt... if it is just the glass... time to get out the glue.
     
  7. JD

    JD Well-Known Member

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  8. David Ashton

    David Ashton Active Member

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    As we are a long way from anywhere I have to make my own mirrors and it is quite simple.I found a stained glass window maker who will cut any shape mirror you want in seconds.For cheap effects mirrors I buy very cheap table mirrors from a $2 dollar shop as the glass is really thin and light.For real movers we use front surface optical glass, my glass man stocks this to make kaleidoscopes, but it is not very expensive compared to the replacement parts price and most importantly I can get a mirror replaced in a day.So I recommend finding a glass artisan and starting a business relationship, I was able to show my glass man how to light his windows display for best effect and he still cuts my glass for free.
     
  9. JohnA

    JohnA Active Member

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    Thanks to all who replied. I wish I could pitch the instrument & go higher end. But I am essentially providing this as a volunteer service to the local schools; their just isn't available capital for that kind of investment.

    The mirror kit consists of the "bare" mirror and nothing else. I am considering the use of the 3M double stick tape as a means of attaching the new mirror, in combination with a couple drops of the glue used to reinstall the rear view mirror to a car's windshied.

    --John A
     
  10. avkid

    avkid Not a New User Fight Leukemia

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    Use the good stuff, not a knock off.
    http://jbweld.net/products/mirror.php
     
  11. Van

    Van CBMod CB Mods Premium Member

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    Your best bet would probably be just using foam double stick tape. Most of the earlier "scanners" use it as an adhesive for mirrors. The rear-view mirror glue is really no much more than a "Hot" cyanoacrylate, or Super Glue and it's rather brittle. . If you're dead set on using a glue I'd go with a two part epoxy, remember the shorter the "set time" for an epoxy the more brittle the end product. A good 4 + hour epoxy will give you a good bond with enough "give" to not snap off the first time you go nuts with the scanner. The same theory goes for Double Stick tape. if you use the thing stuff it won't conform to all the pit and valleys present on the back of the mirror, and the yoke plane. The thicker < 1/16" or so> stuff, allows for a move even level bond with a much greater surface area. The foam also acts as a bit of a shock absorber, again, when you go nuts scanning.
     
    JohnA likes this.

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