Cleaning/Repairing console faders

On something of a side note, anyone know where one might find a selection of sliders? I've been looking for one of 50 ohm or 100 ohm capacity. All I have been able to find are the rotary knob type.

Are you sure that's not 50k or 100k? I don't think I've ever ran into a slider that was 50 ohms. What board is that out of?
 
a lot of sliders are 10k

Yea, I would have to say 10k is probablly the norm in most boards. 50 or 100 ohms is not something I have seen, thus the thought that maybe there is a "k" after that number.

Even at 5 volts, the drop across ten 50 ohm sliders would be one amp! Just wouldn't make sense in a light board.
 
sorry, I did mean 50K or 100K.

edit: The pot is controlling an architectural dimmer over a low voltage line to dim our house lights. The one that we have is really sensitive over about a half an inch space (couple of cm) and not at all over the rest of the length. Makes it hard to dim the house lights with any "theatrical effectiveness".
 
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sorry, I did mean 50K or 100K.
edit: The pot is controlling an architectural dimmer over a low voltage line to dim our house lights. The one that we have is really sensitive over about a half an inch space (couple of cm) and not at all over the rest of the length. Makes it hard to dim the house lights with any "theatrical effectiveness".

That could be caused by a couple of things. Check back through the thread for the stuff about Log vs Liner taper. Using the wrong one would cause that effect. Also, they may have wired the wrong DC buss to the control. (Most analog systems like to see 0 to 10 vdc) One other thing would be the high limit and idle adjustments. Just some thoughts. Remember, even though it is low voltage, only qualified personnel should be dealing with the problem. (Usual disclaimer)
Mosuer.com would be a good place to start the hunt if you need a new pot, and the OEM can not be had.
 
The pot has a label on it IDing it as linear with a custom curve in the 10% to 0% range. I don't remember how the custom curve works out (if it's a sharper or slower curve). Looks like mouser would indeed have the pot I need, and they're practically around the corner from me.

My understanding of the history is that the pot was replaced with a bit of frankensteining because the last one was even more sensitive/ineffective. The current one was hard to find when it was replaced. I assume (ASS of U and ME) that the dimmer/pot combination worked at one time quite well, and this problem is somewhat new.

We're looking at developing some grants to improve the lighting equipment, and we had talked briefly about replacing the house lights with LED PARS and changing the wiring, and running them on a 600W lutron dimmer, but at $200 a lamp, it wouldn't come cheap. (we actually ordered one lamp to try, except that the one we ordered turned out it didn't dim like we thought it would) In doing a bit more talking with other staff members, we thought we'd look into changing out the pot to see if that fixes the problem. After all, $3 is better than say, $2000.

Sorry for jacking the thread.
 
Could it be in backwards? Just a thought. You might want to also order the Liner version. There are several different curves used in lighting because filament brightness itself is not liner. Most are determined by the dimmer design, or in modern dimmers, selectable . Still, if it had a compensation curve, and was flipped around, instead of correcting the curve it would have made it twice as bad.
 
I had been planning on getting a linear pot actually, and trying the 50K and 100K out to see which one works better. After the past couple comments, though I was thinking of getting a log pot and trying that out too. I really appreciate everyone's comments and expertise.
 
I am a fan of LED technology, but i'm not sure how effective it is for lighting up an entire room yet. If they loaded bulbs full of 3W LED's then things would be much better then them loading them up with 1/4 like many manufactureres do.
 
The lamp we looked at, this one, if you want to see provided a nice, bright, even coverage, but like I said, we couldn't get it to dim the way an incandescent light dims. I'm going to use it elsewhere in the theatre where the lamp is hard to change, but only turns one and off. And by the way, I had a bad experience with that particular store. It took more than a month to get the lamp in, and it was very difficult to get in contact with anyone. Eventually, my message got to the right person, and he called me up specifically to explain. Somehow the order had just fallen through the cracks and he told me they were looking into the problem. He also gave me his direct line to contact him if there were problems or if I had future orders. In the for what it's worth category.
 
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