Collapsing Bed Leg

zachotter

Member
I'm building a prop bed for a production. My immediate problem is that the bed has to have a collapsing leg.

The gag is that a man throws his wife onto the bed for a romp and then one of the legs breaks at the headboard of the bed, the bed tilts, and her petticoat flies up over her head. Cue guffaw.

The bit needs to be repeatable through tech and 2 months of 8 performances a week. And I want to make sure that the actor wouldn't be hurt in any way, so the leg can't fall a huge distance.

The legs will be made of 3x3 oak most likely.

Any ideas? I'd really appreciate any advice.

Thanks
 
First thought is to have the leg on a hinge. Tie a small rope/tieline around the hinged leg and pull it from backstage at the right moment.
 
Good Morning Zachotter

Have you considered an air bag?
support the bed on the bag. the leg would be fake.
Jump on the bed & let the air out.
Run a large enough hose back stage with a valve. It may need a muffler to suppress the “ hiss”

My $0.02
 
Maybe pneumatic actuators if this is the upstage end of the bed. Do the legs need to be visible or could you use a mattress skirt?

We have a collection of bits in inventory from Automation FX that see use regularly for this sort of thing, but I'm sure there are other companies in the business.
 
I'd like a linear guide with a solenoid or actuator release. The leg is offset enough to slide up and cause the gag.
 
......building a prop bed for a production. My immediate problem is that the bed has to have a collapsing leg. .......man throws his wife onto the bed......one of the legs breaks......bed tilts, and her petticoat flies ......guffaw........The bit needs to be repeatable through tech and 2 months of 8 performances a week....... the leg can't fall a huge distance.......

OK, let's take a look at this. What are the parameters that define what we need to do?
1. Leg "breaks" and bed tilts/falls.
2. Gag must repeat, reliably, roughly 80/90 times.
3. Talent must not be injured.
4. Fall/tilt distance must be minimal to insure item #3.


Item 4 is the easiest. You don't say what the show is or the period and locale which could affect the bed design in terms of size and height. The bed design will have a strong effect on the "fall Distance". To simulate a mattress and a bed, there will be a thickness to the "box" section. That and the "normal bed height of about 20"-24" limits the leg length to between 6" to 10". If your bed is a period piece that is higher, you can still limit the fall by designing the "break" to leave a stump or upper leg section intact, that in reality or in illusion, prevents the bed from falling or tipping further.

3. As the "break" happens at the head of the bed, care must be taken to insure that any head board or bed posts are structurally attached and there are no sharp edges or corners. Pillows or other bedding might need to be firmly attached to insure it remains in place and acts as "fall padding" or conceals real padding as needed. Actor training and fight/fall training as well as gag choreography are a must to insure performer safety.
1 & 2. Leg breaks! What happens when the leg breaks? The bed, if unevenly loaded and heavy on the break side will pivot around the points where the two opposite corner legs contact the deck and the corner opposite the "broken" leg will rise up. The bed and whatever "load" is still on it are now supported by the opposite corner legs and at an angle and by whatever part of the bed is supported by the "gimmick " rigging at the break corner. So, step one is to build and/or reenforce the two diagonal legs so they can handle the repeated stress of sudden angular, shock loading. Real bed construction and "normal" shop construction techniques, especially using wood, are not what is called for. In my mind a welded steel frame would seem to be a wise choice if you have the shop and equipment to create it. I would also consider attaching the two pivot legs to the deck with hinges aligned with the fall direction.

To make the leg fall requires a pulling action. Whether it is a locking pin that is pulled or a hinged leg that is pulled or something else, the mechanism (or string to stagehand or whatever) has to work under the bed, so there is very little room for a "push" mechanism. There are probably a hundred ways to collapse the leg, I will suggest just one possibility. I would think of a three part leg. The first part is the stationary upper part that is permanently part of the bed frame. How far it protrudes below the main frame will determine the maximum fall distance. The under side of the first part is beveled 2-5 degrees away from the fall direction. The second section is hinged to the top with the barrel on the same side that the "pull" is from. The top of the second section is also beveled just slightly 2-3 degrees so that it bends away from the direction of the "pull" cord. The bottom of the 2nd section is also beveled just slightly the same direction so that the top and bottom are parallel. The bottom section is hinged to the middle section with the barrel on the side opposite the "pull". The top of the lower section is beveled slightly toward the pull side. The bottom of the bottom leg should be slightly rounded on the corner so that when it is pulled, it does not have to cam over a corner. Correctly beveled and hinged, the leg will have a very slight bend away from the pull direction and in effect, cam over and become self locking under load. Depending on what the action on the bed is prior to the gimmick, you may or may not need to employ a secondary support or lock to prevent an unwanted collapse. You might want to install small springs or strong rubber bands on the sides to prevent a leg collapse in the case of vibration or action on the bed that would put the leg in a slight lifted or "no-load" condition. The pull string/cable is attached to the leg opposite the lower hinge. It may be activated by a stagehand pulling a cable, a small motor and a winch drum, a pneumatic or hydraulic cylinder, etc. The string will need to be pulled the same distance as the the thickness of the leg, counting the center line of the two hinge barrels as the thickness. The trade off here is, the narrower the leg, the less force and less distance the pull will require. The thicker the leg, the more stable it will be before the gag. The pull mechanism, if mechanical, can be built in or attached to the under side of the bed, requiring only signal wires to be connected. Stagehands usually object to being attached to scenery or props, so that is out.

To dampen or not to dampen and if so how much. I am sure that the fall of the bed will not be sufficient to cause the petticoat to "flies over her head" and will require some help and planning from the actress and choreographer. There will have to be a number of trials in the shop, long before tech rehearsals to determine what damping is needed and what performer actions are needed to carry off the gag. At the same time it might be enough to require a little damping at the end. It may be as simple as piling some blankets and bedding under the bed that compress during the last couple of inches, it might be enough to warrant a gas shock attached to the opposite corner to slowdown the rise of that part of the bed, like a gas shock that slows down your hatchback as it rises up. If strong damping is called for, I do suggest the gas shock on the opposite corner. Less of a problem of the leg mechanism and the shock absorber interfering with each other.

Anyway, this is just one of many ways that might work. More important, plan for R&D time in the shop, plan to get the director, performers and choreographer in the shop early to test and try. This is not something that should be designed, built and finished in the shop and presented Fait Accompli on stage. Even if everything you do is perfect and 100% correct, to not involve the other players in the game up front, will be a major error in communications and professional relationships.

Anyway, hope this helps a bit. BTW, What's the show?????
 
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How much is the bed used prior to the collapse?
If nothing ever gets put on it until the bed breaks you could theoretically have a floating short leg in the collapsing corner the whole time and instead anchor the opposite corner with a quick release of some sort. Anchor the two pivoting legs with a hinge. Those three points of tie down will hold the bed looking normal for people sitting on the front edge or dropping of a bag as people come in etc. When the gag happens pull the pin and the bed will be able to teeter totter to the short leg.

If more frolicking happens on the bed before the gag however I would not trust this.
 
I did a similar stunt with a Chair leg that needed to break but not until someone sat in the chair 'roughly'. I built a doweled joint, used balsa for the pin. It was stable enough to hold the weight of an actor if they sat lightly, but if they put the least amount of lateral force on the joint, or they sat abruptly, boom, the balsa would snap.
If you utilized a similar setup on the bed legs...
 
I did a similar stunt with a Chair leg that needed to break but not until someone sat in the chair 'roughly'. I built a doweled joint, used balsa for the pin. It was stable enough to hold the weight of an actor if they sat lightly, but if they put the least amount of lateral force on the joint, or they sat abruptly, boom, the balsa would snap.
If you utilized a similar setup on the bed legs...
@Van Balsa and presumably no glue to facilitate replacement?
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard.
 

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