Color Scrollers

Not to get off topic of DMX termination, but, S4's take a 6.25 inch scroller right? Are there any conversion plates that take a 7.25 inch scroller fit a S4?

The Apollo Smart Color 7.25 is available with a universal mounting plate, allow the end-user to choose 6.25 (ellipsoidals), 7.5 (Source Four PARs), or 10 inch (PAR 64 fixtures) fixtures for use. This versatility is helpful in roadhouse environments, where needs change by the week....


http://www.internetapollo.com/Products/View/2249.aspx
 
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Woops! Made a mistake! I'm actually trying to run these scrollers off of an ETC EXPRESS 72/144 NOT an EXPRESSION. This shouldn't change anything should it???
 
Woops! Made a mistake! I'm actually trying to run these scrollers off of an ETC EXPRESS 72/144 NOT an EXPRESSION. This shouldn't change anything should it???

Software is the same on the consoles, the difference is in how many devices you can control. On the Express you have fewer control channels.
 
How many control channels will I have?

The total channel count of the Express 72/144 is 240. You have direct physical control of 144 via the faders if you are set in single scene mode, the rest of the channels you have to call using the keypad.
 
Alrighty one more thing ladies and gentleman! So I'm hearing different things from different people. If i wanted to fit an Apollo Smartcolor to a Source Four 26 or 36 degree fixture, which mounting plate size would i get (model name?). Or in other words, which size would i get, the 5.25, 7.25, or 10?
 
Did you ask where to get them? I would like to know if anyone has preferences on purchases like these Scrollers? I found Lighttheatrics online and they seem to be the cheapest, but i dunno....??? Any advice about where to get scrollers and the like???

:cool:
 
Cheapest may not always be best. Support your local theatrical dealer. An Internet vendor is not going to be able to get you repair or replacement parts in an hour, or help you out when you need something for a show at the last minute.
 
For maximum versatility, I'd get the Universal Mounting Plate.

But specifically for the SourceFour 19°-50°, use the AC-MPLATE-3, mounting plate. Or, for the complete assembly, SC-SCROLL-7-MP3.

Kelite, I think there's an error on the specs page for the AC-MPLATE-3, as the 14°, 70°, and 90° use a 7.5"x7.5" frame, not a 6.25"x6.25".


Yes, you are absolutely right Derek. Let me bounce this over to our web designer/maintainer and get that oversight corrected. Thank ytou for pointing that out!

DCATTechie-
The best choice for a variety of beam angles within the 6.25 inch color frame range would certainly be the Smart Color 7.25, as this aperture allows plenty of light output for fixtures from 19* to 50*, while offering a lightweight package. The Universal Mounting plate is a great choice for venues enlisting a wide variety of fixtures with numerous color frame sizes.

Thanks again Derek!


(The Apollo website has been changed to indicate the proper mounting plates for the above mentioned fixtures. Carry on!)
 
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Another question. how do i patch these scrollers into the Express 72/144 and how do i "dial in" the color that I want?

Each scroller gets a unique DMX address, which is set on the scroller via three knobs (assuming Apollo SmartColors). One knob for the 100's, one for 10's and one for 1's. You will need to set an address with these, which I will get to later.

First off, you need to figure out where you are going to feed data from. Are you going to passthrough from your dimmers? Are you going to run a second line right from the console? Are you running a DMX splitter?

If you are daisy chaining out from your dimmers then you would need to set the address of the first scroller above the address of the last dimmer. So, if you have 96 dimmers, you could set the first scroller to 97 (or anything above 96). This also applies if you were taking one output from the console and running to to a splitter and then to the dimmers and scrollers as they are still on the same universe. In this setup the scroller addressed to 97 would correspond to "dimmer" 97 in PATCH.

However, your Express supports two universes, so you could run a DMX line from the second output on the back of the console to the scrollers. You also need to make sure that in the system settings on the console you have that port turned on and set to output 513-1024. Using this method of hookup you could address the first scroller as 1, which would correspond to "dimmer" 513 in PATCH.

Once you hook up your scrollers you can patch them the same as you would any dimmer in the patch screen. Normally, on a console like the Express where channels don't have attributes I would patch the fixtures to channels 1-12 and then the scrollers on those fixtures to channels 21-32. Why? Because the Express displays channels in 20 across so the intensity channel would be right above the scroller channel. You don't have to do it this way, I just think that it makes life easier.

To figure out where each color lies, you would take 100 and devide by the number of color frames in the gel string less one. So, if you have a 16 frame string you would think: 100/15=6.66. So every 6.66% that you move the fader you will be (theoretically) centered in the next frame. Since you can't do partial percents you may just find that 07 or 06 is where you need to be for frame 1 and then around 13 for frame 2, etc. You can also record each color as a group and then call the groups up instead of having to fumble with faders or the keypad each time you need to change color.
 
For maximum versatility, I'd get the Universal Mounting Plate.

When we demoed our smart colors they came with the universal mounting plate. We were going to buy the 7.5s" so it was only to change between 6 1/4" and 7 1/2" I found the plate to be a pain to deal with and it is much quicker to just swap frames. The other issue I had was there was alot of light bouncing back from the heat shield that is blocked with the one size bracket that is not blocked with the universal plate. I do not know the price difference on universal VS buying two plates but it is something to think about.
 
When we demoed our smart colors they came with the universal mounting plate. We were going to buy the 7.5s" so it was only to change between 6 1/4" and 7 1/2" I found the plate to be a pain to deal with and it is much quicker to just swap frames. The other issue I had was there was alot of light bouncing back from the heat shield that is blocked with the one size bracket that is not blocked with the universal plate. I do not know the price difference on universal VS buying two plates but it is something to think about.

When I bought my SmartColors, it was cheaper to buy the UMP as opposed to each backplate that we would have needed. Just to play opposite you soundman I find that the UMPs may take slightly more time to setup, but when you factor in the fact that with individual plates you need a place to store them and not misplace them, and every time you want to change you have to grab new plates. I almost always have my SmartColors ready to go before my Chroma-Qs since for the chroma-Qs we have to change mounting plates.

One tip though, and maybe Apollo should add this in as standard on the UMPs. I suggest taking a paint pen, or silver Sharpie and marking the plates so that you know how far you have to move them for the different lights. PAR64s are easy since that is all the way open (on the SC7.5) but some of the other sizes are easier to get to if they are marked.
 
When I bought my SmartColors, it was cheaper to buy the UMP as opposed to each backplate that we would have needed. Just to play opposite you soundman I find that the UMPs may take slightly more time to setup, but when you factor in the fact that with individual plates you need a place to store them and not misplace them, and every time you want to change you have to grab new plates. I almost always have my SmartColors ready to go before my Chroma-Qs since for the chroma-Qs we have to change mounting plates.

We store the plates in the scroller road case so that isn't a problem for us. In out situation we also have a large amount of free labor so the time issue is not a killer either. I guess a case by case basis is the way to choose what route you go.


One tip though, and maybe Apollo should add this in as standard on the UMPs. I suggest taking a paint pen, or silver Sharpie and marking the plates so that you know how far you have to move them for the different lights. PAR64s are easy since that is all the way open (on the SC7.5) but some of the other sizes are easier to get to if they are marked.

I agree 100% this was another turn off, its something that would not take that long to do but I don't think it is the end users responsibility to do things that should be done when they are manufactured. Even a dimple in the metal for 6 1/4, 7 1/2, and 10" would make me happy.
 
We store the plates in the scroller road case so that isn't a problem for us. In out situation we also have a large amount of free labor so the time issue is not a killer either. I guess a case by case basis is the way to choose what route you go.




I agree 100% this was another turn off, its something that would not take that long to do but I don't think it is the end users responsibility to do things that should be done when they are manufactured. Even a dimple in the metal for 6 1/4, 7 1/2, and 10" would make me happy.

Keith! Hint: Dimple.
 

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