Colortran ENR24

In perusing the datasheet, it looks like these use about 2 amps each. Inrush current is much more, but lasts a half-cycle [no time at all] and won't be an issue with your amount of fixtures so lets not get in to the weeds on that. Anyway, looks like you'll be pulling about ten amps max so as long as the circuit you're using isn't also supplying a fog machine, refrigeration unit, coffee maker, etc, you should be fine. The circuits in your school (even the wall outlets) are going to be good for 20 amps minimum. But yes, CS relays definitely won't like being on dimmers. I know ETC okay's it with their fixtures (on their dimmers), but I doubt they recommend it for relays and other electronics.

You should be able to put 4 575w fixtures on a single 2.4kw dimmer circuit. Any more than that and you're heading for an overload. Some battens have repeating circuits (the bane of my existence) which may look something like "10, 11, 12, 13, 10, 11, 12, 13". In this case, all like numbers almost certainly share a dimmer so you have to take that in to account when calculating the total load. It's easy to get carried away with two-fers and inadvertently pull more power than you should.
Fixed the problem with the two-fers and spread out the lights on them. Thanks for the help!
 
Acceptable 120V wire length is directly related to the wire size. All your cables should be at least 12 gauge, by code. 50' is fine for 20A of 12gu. though many charts are a bit more conservative. Real life tends to introduce smaller wire stuff like 16gu orange extensions. Those might do OK at 25' as LED lights aren't voltage sensitive.
We found 2 more ETC Source4 Series 2 Lustr LEDs, so we would unfortunately need around 200' feet of cable to make those work. Is that too long?

Also, so I can at least start with the 50's. Any reputable suppliers that sell either 25' or 50' Edison to powerCON with the specs you listed above?
 
We found 2 more ETC Source4 Series 2 Lustr LEDs, so we would unfortunately need around 200' feet of cable to make those work. Is that too long?

Also, so I can at least start with the 50's. Any reputable suppliers that sell either 25' or 50' Edison to powerCON with the specs you listed above?
You are powering your CS Relay from a wall outlet now, correct? And then daisy chaining the DMX and power to a string of fixtures from the CS Relay? ETC says you can control up to 16 amps of power with the CS Relay. For the CS PARs, they only draw .75 amps each and also say you can daisy chain up to 9 fixtures using the Powercon ins/outs of each fixture. So it looks like you could power 9 fixtures from one CS Relay. You will have to research the current draw of the Lustr LED's.... should be printed on the fixture somewhere.
Also curious why you need a 25/50' Edison to Powercon. Just use a 12 or 14 gauge Edison extension cord to make the run and add a short Edison to Powercon a the end.
 
You are powering your CS Relay from a wall outlet now, correct? And then daisy chaining the DMX and power to a string of fixtures from the CS Relay? ETC says you can control up to 16 amps of power with the CS Relay. For the CS PARs, they only draw .75 amps each and also say you can daisy chain up to 9 fixtures using the Powercon ins/outs of each fixture. So it looks like you could power 9 fixtures from one CS Relay. You will have to research the current draw of the Lustr LED's.... should be printed on the fixture somewhere.
Also curious why you need a 25/50' Edison to Powercon. Just use a 12 or 14 gauge Edison extension cord to make the run and add a short Edison to Powercon a the end.
Honestly I entirely glossed over using a normal cord and the a short powercon. Thank you for that, and your other help.
 
It's been a while, but this just makes me gawk at my school. This has to be one of the dumbest and most inefficient designs I have seen and heard about with dimmer racks. There are the main 48 in the one picture, and then the other 10 for the rest of our house lights. I also makes me wonder why they did not just put all of them in a small vault under our stage. Other random fact, we have 59 addresses patched into our console for all of the lights, but only 48 dimmers.
 

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Are the two dimmer racks located in the same room? If not, the electrical contractor probably did it that way to get the dimmers closer to either the main power source or the loads so they would not have to
run as much cable. In any case, I believe the ENR dimmer racks were only made in 12, 24, and 96 dimmer sizes, so the choice looks correct for your 60 dimmers; 24+24+12=60
Your CS PAR LED fixtures take a minimum of 5 DMX channels per fixture; of course you could set them all to the same DMX address and they would all respond the same. Then a DMX channel for each CS Relay. So maybe two sets of 5 plus one for the relay= 11. 11+48=59?? But then how does the houselight rack figure in unless it is not controlled by your console?
 
It's been a while, but this just makes me gawk at my school. This has to be one of the dumbest and most inefficient designs I have seen and heard about with dimmer racks. There are the main 48 in the one picture, and then the other 10 for the rest of our house lights. I also makes me wonder why they did not just put all of them in a small vault under our stage. Other random fact, we have 59 addresses patched into our console for all of the lights, but only 48 dimmers.
Back-in-the-day, it was common to isolate the house lights from the performance system. As consoles improved house lights got added.
I suspect one house dimmer doesn't have a load.
 
Back-in-the-day, it was common to isolate the house lights from the performance system.
Also, historically and continuing today, in many/most cases, a separate feed for the houselights is required by the NEC.
 
What still baffles me is why all of the house lights aren't on a whole separate 24 dimmer rack. Are house lights are patched in our first universe (because there really only is one with this system) with addresses 40-59. 40-48 are in the rack back stage, and 49-58 or 59 are on that smaller rack. My guess is they just added more lights to make it brighter later on.
 
Getting back to old school CB Forum...

I see nobody asked for photo's of the pins of the bad lamps.
Remember anything about "putting a perfectly good lamp, into a perfectly bad socket"? And how if you interchange bad lamps between fixtures - you will spread those arc points between bad lamp sockets/lamps as per a disease to all fixtures in contact with them... And than any new perfectly good lamps will get those arched bad lamp socket pock marks or heat damage in conducting less well etc. and on average last 100 hours per lamp (proved by way of moving light lamp/socket data tracked over a period of a year), for each perfectly new lamp installed into a bad lamp socket... Until, gee... the fixture stopped working. Bad fixture - on average like five perfectly good lamps later installed on a perfectly bad lamp socket.

Realizing these are only like $30.00 or under lamps in question, but it adds up. Five times a $100.00 thru at this point over $500.00 lamp gets installed into the same fixtures.. In gee, I don't know why I have to keep replacing the lamps on this fixture... Professional question.

Look at your failed lamps, ask why they failed, especially if the same fixture contantly fails. Might be as simple as a lamp base - every failed lamp will easily tell you about for SOP looking at.
 
Better late than never, I am aware of at least two different (I think?) integrators who rebuild ENR cards by gutting the dimming components and essentially just turning it into a constant power card.
Please do not do this yourself. But this may be an option in your area. However, seeing as the number of people around here that seem to even know these exist, let alone servicing them, is rapidly dwindling, that may not work out. (I've heard the phrase "I used to be able to get X to work on them, but they retired a few years ago" repeatedly.)
 

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