Well put, a few details. Never put any threadlocker or other than some unknown sort of conductive thread locker onto a screw thread that conducts. Not persay a really bad thing given terminal to plate touching but really really bad practive. Just don't do it in general as a never do.
Not such a fan of the McMaster Carr crimp tool offered. Sure it works and is fine for the most part but I don't like the concave tip which might cut more than "displace the material." Concept - this no matter if insulated is that you displace rather than crush your crimp. In other words, as opposed to smashing it down where some strands of wire may not recieve as much tension on the termial as others in a smashing sense - this could be bad with conductor settling and expansion/contraction, the insulation displacement type tooth crimp tool pushes material into the area of the crimp terminal. Less room about the terminal under tension means every strand of wire recieves the same amount of tension on it. Can still use an insulation displacement tool on insulated terminals, you just get a bit smashed or displaced the insulation.
Overall key and concept in doing a crimp terminal of any type is that you can tug on the wire now crimped and it don't pull free. Heck, when I was in school, the concept was you drywall screwed the cable to a board on the wall and had at best be able to climb that cable without screws or terminals failing. None the less, that's the tension. There is also ratcheting crimp tools that don't reliece the terminal until properly crimped. Good thing especially for the harder to crimp high temperature terminals, though I'm not as much a fan of them given the less tooth more widened displacement tooth.
As a rule also, find the seam of the crimp terminal. "Seam to saddle". Put that seam of the crimp terminal into the rounded concave part of the crimp tool so it's tooth crimps into the solid part of the crimp. Wouldn't believe how many even industry pro terminals are crimped wrong in strands of wire falling out of the terminal and even terminal working it's way free of the wire it's crimping to by way of backwards crimp. Simple rule, Seam in saddle.
On Flag terminal, Got no use for the front cutting jaws of a crimp tool such as the Stakon, Klien #1005 or #1006, I normally grind it off and that becomes your flag terminal crimp tool once away. This granted in doing so you loose your stops for cimping and instead have to rely on tension and experience in what is proper tension. Don't think there ever was a crimp tool invented for flag terminals. Love my Vatco #1900 tool, still use it as opposed to the above Klien tools at times, but it's a bit under strength at times for high temp. terminals. Got mine at Ace Hardware though in general the Vatco line isn't sold these days. A shame as I also prefer my 5/16" hex Key T-Handle for case or platform rotolocks.
Still the Vatco tool is all set for all intensive purposes for doing flag terminals. This granted it's going to be using the smallest of it's three sizes for crimping but again it's a tension thing more than a jaw size for a flag terminal. I recommend on it however to grind away the wire stipping cutters under the pivet point however. First, they don't give a proper strip of the cable typical to all multi-crimp/strippers and second they are dangerous. More than once I have used the tool to cut a screw in it's screw cutting jaws and choked up a bit only to catch part of the palm of my hand within these sharpened jaws. Not a good wire stripper, gone for safety just as with the Stakon or Klien proper crimp tools above in cutting away the useless cutting tip.
On the above Klien or Stakon tools, you have for at least Klien the #1005 single jaw verses #1006 double jaw crimp tools on the market. In matching up crimps to the saddle of it, it would seem the first single jaw - with insulated crimp oval, as it's second crimp part, works best on 14-16ga terminals. The double jaw works best on 18-22ga and 10-12ga terminals but not as well on the other. Were I to buy only one tool, I would buy the single jaw crimp tool in balancing that. Overall it I think has the best balance, though I do own many of both at shop and home and don't have to choose. Reason for this choice, In doing a flag terminal in having cut away the front cutting tip, the double jaw #1006 won't properly crimp a 12ga flag terminal given it's front crimp jaw is for 18-22ga. If you don't have flag terminals in your system, perhaps the #1006 would be better and you don't have to grind away the cutting edge.
On the Klien #1005, it's insulated crimp jaw is still useful if say doing 1/16" wire rope and setting up your crimp for a proper wire rope crimp tool. Or rounding out small round stuff, other than that, wouldn't use it.
On the other hand, what I often find myself using is an Ideal Linsesmens pliers crimp tool for 12-10ga and larger cap splices and in general for 12ga or larger crimps. I like it and it's the only style on the market. Wouldn't use it for normal uses of a Linsesmen's pliers in it's cutting part is lacking leverage in being on the wrong side of the hinge but it's a great crimp tool overall for a normal crimp tool. Saddle on it is just a bit larger and with leverage, it's jaw still displaces properly yet adds more surface area to what is displaced.
Side note, pull off the insulation from a vinyl store bought ring terminal and you now have a un-insulated ring terminal. On the other hand for a Union style stage pin plug in using the flag terminals, store bought and even McMaster or other sources in that center ground ring terminal for some reason is longer in length than a proper ring terminal for th plug. Short of Union Connector, you tend to run into problems of outer jacket strip length in even if you put the ground right next to the outer jacket, it's still too long. Caution on that.
This in Union Connector and or McMaster and other sources for a 100pkg of proper terminals often being cheaper in the long run than a ten pack or what ever for a home center package of them. Definately want to at least pull off the insulation off a ring terminal ground if doing a proper Union stage pin plug.
By the way... Stage pin is the proper term, I was incorrect in it being "stage pin" as opposed to "stage plug." in being different. On the other hand I do have a collection of all sizes from 10A thru 100A Stage pin and stage Plug in collection - fascinating if not cute in the case of the 10A version.
Not such a fan of the McMaster Carr crimp tool offered. Sure it works and is fine for the most part but I don't like the concave tip which might cut more than "displace the material." Concept - this no matter if insulated is that you displace rather than crush your crimp. In other words, as opposed to smashing it down where some strands of wire may not recieve as much tension on the termial as others in a smashing sense - this could be bad with conductor settling and expansion/contraction, the insulation displacement type tooth crimp tool pushes material into the area of the crimp terminal. Less room about the terminal under tension means every strand of wire recieves the same amount of tension on it. Can still use an insulation displacement tool on insulated terminals, you just get a bit smashed or displaced the insulation.
Overall key and concept in doing a crimp terminal of any type is that you can tug on the wire now crimped and it don't pull free. Heck, when I was in school, the concept was you drywall screwed the cable to a board on the wall and had at best be able to climb that cable without screws or terminals failing. None the less, that's the tension. There is also ratcheting crimp tools that don't reliece the terminal until properly crimped. Good thing especially for the harder to crimp high temperature terminals, though I'm not as much a fan of them given the less tooth more widened displacement tooth.
As a rule also, find the seam of the crimp terminal. "Seam to saddle". Put that seam of the crimp terminal into the rounded concave part of the crimp tool so it's tooth crimps into the solid part of the crimp. Wouldn't believe how many even industry pro terminals are crimped wrong in strands of wire falling out of the terminal and even terminal working it's way free of the wire it's crimping to by way of backwards crimp. Simple rule, Seam in saddle.
On Flag terminal, Got no use for the front cutting jaws of a crimp tool such as the Stakon, Klien #1005 or #1006, I normally grind it off and that becomes your flag terminal crimp tool once away. This granted in doing so you loose your stops for cimping and instead have to rely on tension and experience in what is proper tension. Don't think there ever was a crimp tool invented for flag terminals. Love my Vatco #1900 tool, still use it as opposed to the above Klien tools at times, but it's a bit under strength at times for high temp. terminals. Got mine at Ace Hardware though in general the Vatco line isn't sold these days. A shame as I also prefer my 5/16" hex Key T-Handle for case or platform rotolocks.
Still the Vatco tool is all set for all intensive purposes for doing flag terminals. This granted it's going to be using the smallest of it's three sizes for crimping but again it's a tension thing more than a jaw size for a flag terminal. I recommend on it however to grind away the wire stipping cutters under the pivet point however. First, they don't give a proper strip of the cable typical to all multi-crimp/strippers and second they are dangerous. More than once I have used the tool to cut a screw in it's screw cutting jaws and choked up a bit only to catch part of the palm of my hand within these sharpened jaws. Not a good wire stripper, gone for safety just as with the Stakon or Klien proper crimp tools above in cutting away the useless cutting tip.
On the above Klien or Stakon tools, you have for at least Klien the #1005 single jaw verses #1006 double jaw crimp tools on the market. In matching up crimps to the saddle of it, it would seem the first single jaw - with insulated crimp oval, as it's second crimp part, works best on 14-16ga terminals. The double jaw works best on 18-22ga and 10-12ga terminals but not as well on the other. Were I to buy only one tool, I would buy the single jaw crimp tool in balancing that. Overall it I think has the best balance, though I do own many of both at shop and home and don't have to choose. Reason for this choice, In doing a flag terminal in having cut away the front cutting tip, the double jaw #1006 won't properly crimp a 12ga flag terminal given it's front crimp jaw is for 18-22ga. If you don't have flag terminals in your system, perhaps the #1006 would be better and you don't have to grind away the cutting edge.
On the Klien #1005, it's insulated crimp jaw is still useful if say doing 1/16" wire rope and setting up your crimp for a proper wire rope crimp tool. Or rounding out small round stuff, other than that, wouldn't use it.
On the other hand, what I often find myself using is an Ideal Linsesmens pliers crimp tool for 12-10ga and larger cap splices and in general for 12ga or larger crimps. I like it and it's the only style on the market. Wouldn't use it for normal uses of a Linsesmen's pliers in it's cutting part is lacking leverage in being on the wrong side of the hinge but it's a great crimp tool overall for a normal crimp tool. Saddle on it is just a bit larger and with leverage, it's jaw still displaces properly yet adds more surface area to what is displaced.
Side note, pull off the insulation from a vinyl store bought ring terminal and you now have a un-insulated ring terminal. On the other hand for a Union style stage pin plug in using the flag terminals, store bought and even McMaster or other sources in that center ground ring terminal for some reason is longer in length than a proper ring terminal for th plug. Short of Union Connector, you tend to run into problems of outer jacket strip length in even if you put the ground right next to the outer jacket, it's still too long. Caution on that.
This in Union Connector and or McMaster and other sources for a 100pkg of proper terminals often being cheaper in the long run than a ten pack or what ever for a home center package of them. Definately want to at least pull off the insulation off a ring terminal ground if doing a proper Union stage pin plug.
By the way... Stage pin is the proper term, I was incorrect in it being "stage pin" as opposed to "stage plug." in being different. On the other hand I do have a collection of all sizes from 10A thru 100A Stage pin and stage Plug in collection - fascinating if not cute in the case of the 10A version.
Call it anything except a "stage plug." See this thread... (well I can't find it, but it was the one where JD argued with me about calling a 2P&G a "stage plug." We really need a better search engine, perhaps in v3.0?)
Need 3x "Uninsulated Crimp-On Ring Terminals" for the modern 2P&G. Unless you have the older pin connectors that need two right angle ring terminals for the hot and neutral and a straight terminal for the ground. A brand name that has become like Leko and Kleenex is "Sta-Kon,"
Just to make it more difficult for you McMaster-Carr online catalog, page 719, Part#7113K823, The screw is actually an 8-32, so a 6-8 will work, but I wouldn't go larger than that. If you have older connectors, as I said above, you'll need the "Ring Flag Terminals," page, 721, Part#3125K68. Note these are only for 12g. cable, for instruments that have smaller wire you'll need different terminals. HomeDepot or Lowe's terminals will be fine, provided you can find an exact match, and I'm pretty sure they won't carry the ring flag terminals. Easier to just order from McMaster or equivalent.
The terminal should come with instructions, but if not, yes. See below.
Those are known as "shoe terminals," and are designed so that you just stick the stripped wire under the metal plate and tighten the screw. In my opinion, throw those little metal plates away and buy crimp terminals. If you must (or want to) use them, be sure to use the proper conductive LocTite (thread locker) on the screw before tightening. I think they come with split lock washers, but unassembled, so who knows if the lock washers were used by the original installer. In any case, I don't like them, except maybe for wiring a practical that you know you're going to be taking apart soon. Easier to field repair, but breaks more often. Use the right thing the first time and one need not worry about field repair.
Much issue of debate here. I prefer my Vaco crimper/stripper that has a tooth so that it significantly dents the ferrule. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to find this crimper anywhere, and don't remember where I got the one I have. Edit--Vaco is a subset of Klein? or so it appears, never knew that. Since you (I) already have the McMaster catalog open, page 735, part# 7179K41 for $38.74 US, or, because you're partial to Klein, whose website seems to be down at the moment, this. As an aside, you DO have an MMC hard copy catalog, free for the asking, to use as a reference tool, don't you? In my opinion, don't use the crimpers that are flat and just smash both sides of the ferrule together. I don't see any acceptable stripper/crimper combo tool listed on Lowe's site. For a combo unit I do approve of, go here, and type in "Greenlee 1923." You have made friends with Graybar in your city, yes? Best price here.
For more information on connectors and wire types, see this thread. Now give me back the 75 minutes I just spent composing this post.
Here's most everything you need. Probably forgotten something, though. Like the Klein 1005, which I use sometimes rather than the Vaco No. 1900.