Dummy load with no light

Tex

Active Member
I'm using some strings of c7 retrofit dimmable led Christmas lights with an Elation shoebox dimmer pack. The lights have a faint glow even with the dimmers at zero. If I replace two of the led bulbs with incandescent c7's, or put a dummy load on the dimmer, the string will fade all the way out. This is a contest, so I'm limited on number of lights and I'd rather not use glass c7's on stage. Is there a dummy load I can put on a dimmer that doesn't emit light? I tried using a plug and resistors to build what the Christmas light guys call a "snubber", but I think there's more wattage there than the snubber can disperse.

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If light is a problem, just 2-fer the light string with desk lamp hidden back stage with a 25w or similar lamp. No light? use a small heat generating appliance like a coffee maker without the crock on the hot plate.
 
Even the ceramic heater cone that we used to burn sal ammoniac in to create haze emits some light (from the glowing red coils), but was once popular as the ghost load for dimmer, resistance.
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Note: I would NOT recommend this today. Severe FIRE HAZARD if not handled properly. And sal ammoniac is nasty.

I'd two-fer in a double pigtail cue light with cages and 60W bulbs, and wrap the sides in black wrap, leaving the top open to allow heat and light to escape. Be sure to mount it away from all combustibles. Or use a "trouble light"/"drop light"; or a clip light.
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I have a similar issue. My string of leds are ghosting when the channel is all the way down on the dimmer (nsi D4, of course).

What I would like to do is find out if I can put a large enough resistor in a male Edison plug and plug it in on the duplex with the leds to stop the ghosting. Any idea? Besides get new dimmers :p How many ohms/ watts resistor should I use in America?

Pretty much any solid state dimmer will give you the same problem. They don't like loads of less than 50 watts. Resistor value is spec'ed out in my post earlier. Problem is, you are not going to be able to put it "in" a plug. Wherever it is, it is going to be throwing some heat!

LED strings do need to be ghost loaded. Not only are they low in wattage, they (electrically) are an open circuit until sufficient voltage is present to cause forward conduction. (Another thing dimmers hate.) With the load in place, they will go off. You will also notice a dead region at the bottom of the curve. This is normal.
 
Here is what you need.

WH25-680RJI - WELWYN - RESISTOR, WIRE WOUND, 680OHM, | Newark Resistors

Newark is a reliable vendor, and they ship fast. Since you stated that a pair of C7s fixed it, this is sized to dissipate about 21 Watts, which is just a bit more. Make sure it runs in free air so that it can properly dissipate heat. I would solder some #18 stranded leads to it and use heat shrink tubing to ensure that there is no way for anything to make contact with the smallest bit of bare lead.
 
50 watts is the safe number, but I will admit to sticking a 7 watt nightlight into an Elation shoebox dimmer once (only thing handy) and it actually worked!
;)
 
Here is what you need.

WH25-680RJI - WELWYN - RESISTOR, WIRE WOUND, 680OHM, | Newark Resistors

Newark is a reliable vendor, and they ship fast. Since you stated that a pair of C7s fixed it, this is sized to dissipate about 21 Watts, which is just a bit more. Make sure it runs in free air so that it can properly dissipate heat. I would solder some #18 stranded leads to it and use heat shrink tubing to ensure that there is no way for anything to make contact with the smallest bit of bare lead.

Also make sure to mount it to a suitable heatsink and use heatsink compund, otherwise, it will not survive. Here's a link to the datasheet. http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/423255.pdf

I prefer to use 50W or 100W resistors and then only pull 20W or 50W through them respectively. Then I can mount them to a slightly smaller heatsink, in free air, and know they will not have a problem.

David
 
Most of the snubbers used with Christmas lights are 47k and only dissipate .3W on 110v. I'd try those before building ones that dump 20W per channel as those will need heat sinks, protective cases, and possibly fans if you put multiple in one box.
/mike
 
Problem with LED strands is it is not a snubber issue alone. There is no forward conduction until a certain voltage is reached. With "no load" on the dimmer, the firing circuit leaks voltage and this voltage builds in each half cycle to the point where there is conduction. Unfortunately, on an LED, conduction = light.
 
Light bulb in coffee can in series with a thermal fuse. Do they still sell coffee in a can ?
 
My norm is something backstage either in a shielded and vented box for light - this even is Soco feed thru, or just something backstage like an Inkie or clip light in the circuit. 75w is my standard lamp wattage for something to do a dummy load when in question of not working sufficiently on a dimmer.

Thermal fuse coffee cans? These are things for the history books in "do tell about them." Had a bunch of modified Pinspots that mounted PAR 38 lamps in my first theater. Could never figure out who was hot gluing the lamps to the cans. Than I later figured out later that the actual plastic lamp socket installed into the pinspots were the thing melting down and traveling down the bulb in welding it to the can. Re-wired the cans after that but was fascinating.

Also remember some lighted blow up baloons for some tennis turniments where they were using 1Kw multi-vapor lamps - very badly mounted in socket to the screen of the fan. This wasn't the problem in them failing other than snapped welds where the hot lamp would break a weld and pivot against the plexiglass 8" tube inside the baloon. Problem we found after correcting for this wee, engineering of mounting a lamp socket to a fan reflector screen problem in welds snapping, was with that the base reflector inside the arc lamp. (This a part used to reflect heat inside the lamp away from the lamp socket,) wasn't really designed by lamp type to bounce around on the way to a show. Lamps in use are for architectural install and not really a shock mounted type of lamp.

This shield reflector of heat inside the lamp at times when screwed in - often just happened by chance to bend the reflector towards specifically where the thermal switch was located inside the plexi-glass shell of the blow up balloon light fixture. A question of Math and chance, but yep, the filament shields with travel at times allowed the filament shield ment to reflect heat/light away from the under hung base, away from it, just happened to when wiggled reflect that heat directly at the thermal fuse.


Fairly easy fix - re-mount the lamp socket so it doesn't rely on the safety screen for the fan cooling it and blowing up the baloon by way of a welded assembly that incorporates all. (Also better rigging of the baloon.) Than given all the 1K multi-vapor lamps have this problem - just re-locate this thermal switch and get a better brand of lamp.

Way off subject but curious concept in studying and solving a problem. Perhaps a bit too off topic - sorry.
 
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I am not sure this would work with LED light strands. I think it is designed for dimmable LED lamps and fixtures that have a power supply that presents itself the same way as a CFL does. (Diode/capacitor front end.) LED strands are unique in that they generally are a long line of LEDs in series, with a blocking diode and limiter resistor. Often their draw is 1/2 wave.

Depending on the price, you may want to try it out, but I would set my hopes pretty low.
 
Depending on the price, you may want to try it out, but I would set my hopes pretty low.

They are $20 on B&H. Twofer and a 25 watt bulb is a lot cheaper and way less hassle than any of the other ideas.
 
What's inside of this?

I know you can't run LEDs off of a dimmer. I ran across this device on ADJ. I can't really tell the purpose of it. Is it supposed to provide a load to allow the dimming of LEDs? I have run DJ effect lighting off of cheaper dimmer packs and enough current leaks through to make the lights flash every few minutes. Could this remedy this as well/instead?
 

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