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Electric Converter - Will this work?

Discussion in 'Lighting and Electrics' started by krhodus, Jan 20, 2005.

  1. krhodus

    krhodus Member

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    I am in depirate need of a Edison to Stage-Pin electric converter and don't have the time to order one for our upcomming show. So I decided to take a stab at making one. I had a power cord from an old power strip that I wasn't using. I crimped eye-holes on the ends of each wire. I then took an old Stage Pin connector and connected the eye holes to it in the corresponding points. Our theater director wasn't sure if it would work or not. I plugged the cord (with no light plugged in the end) into an outlet and it didn't blow up. Will this provide enough power to power a light? This is just going to be used to see if the light works, so the light will be running a maximum of a few minutes.

    Should I expect sucess or fire?

    Thanks,
    Kevin
     
  2. JP12687

    JP12687 Active Member

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    Its a hot-patch.

    I make things similar to this all the time. As long as all your wires match up, and the gague wire your using will support the load then you should be good.
     
  3. techieman33

    techieman33 Well-Known Member

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    What size of cable, that would be your only problem as long as it's wired correctly. And just to let you know, that plugging in a light like that is hard on the lamp, and will reduce it's life. And actually it would be called a jumper.
     
  4. Mayhem

    Mayhem Senior Team Emeritus Premium Member

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    Aside from the cable gauge that you are using, which is important and has been mentioned above, I would ensure that your crimping is of a good quality. Should one or more of the wires pull free, you will have a serious risk.

    I assume from your description, that the stage pin connector is male and therefore plugged into a receptacle. If so, you may think that if a wire pulls free from the power source, it is no big deal, as you will break the circuit and no power will flow.

    Whilst this will happen, the wire that has pulled free could be come in contact with another terminal, causing arcing inside the plug, presenting a serious risk.

    Now I will be the first to admit that we don’t use stage pin connectors in Australia and that I have only ever seen one in pictures, so I cannot really comment on whether or not crimp connectors are the correct way to wire up such a plug. What I do know however, is that there isn’t a lot of room in these plugs for error.

    Be very careful and I would get it checked out by someone with more experience in this area. Also, if you do burn down the theatre with this, you will be held liable.
     
  5. bdesmond

    bdesmond Active Member

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    This isn't kosher if I'm following your description right. There have been at least a few discussions of how to go about wiring a stage pin here before.

    Thee long and the short of it goes like this: you strip a certain number of mm of insulation off the ends of each conductor (read the directions that come with the connector, they usually spel this out), put the ferrule on, crimp teh ferrule, slide the ferrule covered conductor into the pin and finally crank down the set screw so its nice and snug.

    My interpetation of your description is that you took three crimp on eyelet connectors (like this, right - [​IMG]?) and then proceeded to anchor them to the top of the pins with the set screws.

    This is definetely not he intended mode of wiring, and I'm surprised the plug closed gracefully - closing it should require no extra force. What happens if these eyelet connector screws loosen a bit via vibration or the temperature of the metal and now you've got two of these eyelets spinning around and they short out?

    The cable you use and the preexisting edison style connector need to be rated for the load they'll be carrying for this to even be legal as far as the cabling goes. You may only be planning to use this thing for ten seconds to make sure the lamp works, but some other guy might come along and hook something up with this cord you have and end up having a small fire because he's running a large load on a cord and plug rated for a fraction of it.

    The actual task of installing the connector is trivial once taught to do it properly. In your situation, I'd be more inclined to tell you to get a stage pin extension you already have and fit it with the appropriate edison connector you pick up at the local hardware store.

    Hopefully Mr. Ship will be along with a more colorful explanation of this. He does this for a living and explains it well.
     
  6. krhodus

    krhodus Member

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    I know for a fact that this will NOT be a perminant cord because when it is not being used for testing, it will be locked away in a place where only the PAC manager and I will have keys to. Yes the eye hole picture is correct. The crimping is pretty strong, I tested it by yanking on it and seeing if it would come off and it didn't. The only think I am worried about is the guage of the wire since I don't know what it is.

    We are planning on using this to inventory what is working and what isn't and hopefully we need to use it once or maybe twice on a light. How can I make it better for the light than just plugging it in and then unplugging it? The only other solution we have which is possible but requires alot of work is to get out around 100ft of stagepin extension cable and plug it in up on the catwalk and drape it down to the ground and then run it to the lighting shop. This is not only dangerous but we are still plugging the light in and out and being rough on the light.

    Thanks,
    Kevin
     
  7. propmonkey

    propmonkey Well-Known Member

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    im glade all our intsruments and circiuts still are edison plugs.
     
  8. Radman

    Radman Well-Known Member

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    Personally the only thing wrong I find with this is that the wire being from a power strip that probably handles 4.5 amps or so, might not handle some of the higher wattage lamps. Assuming the crimps are hi-temp, they should work fine. Some of the plugs we used before we upgraded to the bates recommended in the instructions to use crimps, if I remember correctly.
     
  9. krhodus

    krhodus Member

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    Does anyone know how easy it would be to install a wall outlet that is stage pin and then have a normal light switch dimmer that would allow us to dim up the light and then dim it down, therefore being a little more gentile on the light?

    Can a theater light even run off of a regular outlet or would we have to have special wiring for it.

    AH THE PAINS OF STAGE-PIN.

    Kevin
     
  10. krhodus

    krhodus Member

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  11. bdesmond

    bdesmond Active Member

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    Kevin-

    I'm nto familair with teh style of plug which uses the eyes. I've always dealt with the sort I described. Assuming you've got a brand of connector that is designed to be wired in the manner you described w/ the eyelets then assuming you did the crimp & assembly properly you're likely OK as far as the conencotr goes.

    Yes you can run a theatrical light off a wall outlet. The deciding factor is what the outlet on the wall is rated for and how much load your light plus anything else on the circuit is generating.

    The way to figure this out is Amps = Watts / Volts (I=W/V). If you look at a circuit breaker, you'll see it has a number stamped on it, usually on the arm - this si the number of amps its rated for. Your wiring from the breaker to anything on the circuit is sized accordingly.

    Its unlikely the power strip cord you plucked is setup for a 20A load, but, a 750W lamp is 6 amps and change, you should be OK, though again, no idea what kind of a mickey mouse cord the power strip might have.

    THat site you linked to has some good basic info along these lines, as far as the math goes.
     
  12. ship

    ship Senior Team Emeritus Premium Member

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    Given your description, and the description of the supervison your director is able to provide I would recommend that you do not use this item before it’s inspected by at least the head of the maintenance staff at the school.

    Here is the reasons or causes of my concern.
    First as JP12687 says, it’s a “hot patch” you are describing in plugging a fixture into a receptacle to see if it works. Is this just one fixture or potentially many of them or is such an item expected to be frequently used? It’s an adaptor not a jumper, a jumper has both ends the same.

    If this is a one time only thing, and the most experienced electrician on staff certifies that your strain relief for the stage pin plug is properly installed, and the “ring terminals” are properly crimped on - by way of tugging them at least to see if they pull out, yes use it this once than cut off the stage pin end and don’t use it a second time. This given most power strip cords are made of 14/3 SJT wire which has the rated capacity of 1,800 Watts.

    Normally on a adaptor, you say the male end, than the female end thus and especially given the description of the whip off a power strip it is assumed this is a molded Edison style 15 amp plug with a female stage pin connector mounted on it’s opposing end.


    Bdesmond, this crimp depends upon the type of plug, if using a old style Union stage pin connector, than this ring terminal might be correct in style for the ground, but you need a flag style right angle terminal for the hot and neutral. Much less, given 14ga wire from the power strip cord, a standard ring terminal provided with a stage pin connector will be the wrong size to be using with this size of conductor. Way too much room in the crimp terminal to be able to close down on the wire correctly.

    Beyond this, I think your description is in thinking it’s a Bates style of stage pin connector that normally uses ferrules to sleeve the conductors in the set screw holes. Hmm, a ring terminal in a Bates plug... could work... possibly, but your point is correct but only given he is using this or a knock off of this specific brand of connector. Many other styles of connector on the market using different systems. Look into Union, Rosco, Peachtree (sp) amongst others that use ring terminals instead of ferrules.


    So here is some questions in “it did not blow up.” Were you to reverse the hot and neutral, given a bi-pin lampped fixture, it won’t blow up, nor even on a screw base. Your fixture will even work, but should you touch the shell of the screw base or pre-focus base fixture, it instead of being neutral thus no shock, will become hot. Should you on this adaptor reverse neutral and ground, it won’t blow up either, should you plug a fixture into it, chances are it also won’t blow up, but every piece of metal in your electrical system will have the return path from the hot. Should you plug a adaptor in with a hot ground reverse, and up until the point you plug a fixture into it, it won’t blow up either. As long as the inner conductors are not touching, there is no current flow thus by description, just because it did not “blow up”, does not mean it’s wired correctly. In other words, just because it did not blow up when plugged in without a load attached to it, does not mean it’s wired properly or safe. Never plug stuff in you are not absolutely sure about.

    Thanks in further reading your post Brian, but being inclined to install any plug when not trained or properly supervised no matter the type is dangerous. By description, and on the whole krhodus, it sounds as if you did everything right and correctly. Don’t get any of us wrong, our interest is in your safety and out of concern for the lack of instruction you have in this. We absolutely are not trying to make it seem as if a closed club of trained tech people only. I take people just about off the street who last week were flipping burgers and train them in how to properly install Socapex plugs on a 19 pin multi-cable. Everyone can install plugs on cable if they have the ability to follow instruction. Short of this, and even on - line, it’s chancy because we have no way of seeing what you have done in verifying it’s safe.

    So also in what you have done, because 14 ga cable is fairly standard for a power strip as a wire gauge, it should be more than sufficient for the loading you place on it as long as it’s under 1,800 watts. Were there a way to know that your circuit breaker powering up this Edison socket was rated at 15 amps, and in good working condition, one might also assume that given the cable gauge and Edison plug on it, most problems with it or the fixture would trip the circuit breaker before the cable had a problem with capacity. However many 15 amp receptacles are linked together around a building and powered by a 20 amp or even at times 30 amp circuit breaker. Hopefully it will trip, given a overload condition, but not always dependant upon the problem. Many things will not cause this circuit breaker protection to trip.

    Now normally and why I say to use it once if built and approved by someone with basic electrical knowledge use it, you instead of wanting the cable jumping between the Edison male and the stage pin female to be of the largest amperage load rated for the plugs instead of the smallest. Since the Edison plug is rated for 15 amps, but the stage pin plug is rated for 20 amps, you than would want a 20 amp rated cable in the adaptor which is 12AWG. (American Wire Gauge.) You might look into the http://www.hstech.org/index.html how to section, there might be some photos there about how to install this plug to compare what you have done with it. While these photos are often student done and not ideal in how to or examples of what you should be seeing, they will at lest be safe in how it’s done. If you were using a new connector also, dig out that instruction sheet that came with the plug, verify you did all it showed in telling you how to wire the plug and apply the strain relief, than present it also to the person inspecting the plug so they will have reference also given they are not that familiar with a stage pin plug either. Were something mis-wired, I would still feel more comfortable with it being mis-wired within the stage pin plug. It’s both more beefy and has a larger body to separate conductors, and given the molded Edison plug from the power strip, there is little to no chance of it not being correct and very safe.

    So a normal adaptor will also not be having this six foot whip from the power strip in length. While some places use a long adaptor, it’s much better for the adaptor to be a say 18" length of cable that is specific to it’s purpose than something that’s also acting as a jumper. Far too easy to mistake a adaptor for a jumper otherwise and not realize this is the case until it’s already up in the catwalk with you. Keep the adaptor short and simple. Also by code, it’s a maximum of 30 inch in length that your SJ (hard service junior jacket) such as found on this power strip, is allowed to be used in length. After that, it needs to be extra hard service type S (without the J) SOOW would be the best type of this. So given a stock 6' whip from this power strip, it’s against code to use in your theater due to it’s length, but after that as long as the connector is properly installed, there is not a specific reason not to have such a thing. Instead it’s more a common sense type of thing to have your cable size gauged for the maximum possible loading of the plugs connected to it. Will your adaptor work? Yes probably as long as the stage pin connector is properly installed as I surmise in your figuring it out, if not also reading the instructions, might just be. Get it inspected and use it if safe enough for this single purpose, but ensure the connector is cut off afterwards.

    If possible in testing this lighting fixture, instead of plugging it into a common receptacle, you might take it to a washroom with a GFCI receptacle in it, or have this maintenance crew inspector of it also install a GFCI outlet where you will be checking the lighting fixture. This will often do a better job of ensuring the fixture is safe than just a circuit breaker. A circuit breaker given appropriate rating of it, just trips when it senses an overload or at times current traveling thru it too fast dependant upon the type. A Ground Fault Current Interrupter on the other hand compares the current load between hot and neutral and trips when this loading is out of balance in a dangerous way - given it can be fooled at times by things like computers and dimmers. For the most part, on a fixture test type of thing, first having a circuit breaker dedicated just to that circuit, and rated for the maximum loading safe for the plugs and cable, than the GFCI is ideal in protection.

    This is what I use at work and often if there is a problem such as someone forgetting to install the mica insulation on a S-4 fixture’s lamp base, the GFCI will trip well before you know what happened, much less given a dedicated circuit breaker, that in my case is thermal magnetic in type will also trip. In any case, you now have both over current protection and a sensing of the current flow as opposed to just over current protection of the maximum allowable loading on the often over-sized circuit breaker.

    For my own tester box that sits on my work table, I have all components of it rated for at least 20 amps, with all others rated at 30. I have power coming into a 30 amp switch, than going to a thermomagnetic circuit breaker rated at 20 amps, than going to a plug fuse that can go down to 5 amps in current rating - given also that a circuit breaker and a fuse will have different trip ratios, it than goes to a high quality GFCI receptacle. My life at times depends upon this box tripping if something is wrong. After the GFCI, the other types of receptacle I test on the box are wired. Even if I leave a 20 amp plug fuse in, there is still lots of circuit protection in many forms of it here. I also have indicator lights to indicate at which stage the circuit tripped. I’m on my third GFCI receptacle in six years now. GFCI receptacles need especially as a lamp test receptacle to have their monthly test to them done. This is one outlet that is used more than any washroom receptacle thus the necessity of it being tested and infrequently replaced.

    Also above with the testers at the shop and my own, you will not all have at least 20 amp switches installed in-line between either power coming to the box in my own tester, or in the Leko Land prep area, where 20 amps is all they have in power available, each of three work stations has a lighted switch installed of which I’m constantly wandering by the aisle and yelling at everyone in the area “Why’s this on?” This is a constant fight both because at the current shop, the switches are flipped on by accident or because people are hot patching as described earlier.

    The hot patching is a very bad thing to do and what I constantly fight people doing at work. The heck is a hot patch? This is a term for what happens when you plug a electrical load into a live circuit. Given a potential for something to draw current, when you just simply plug it in, it will tend to do so immediately. This means that those points of a plug that contact first - at the tip of the plug will than arc to the other receptacle in allowing this current to jump. Lots of current over a small surface area means even at times sparks of light dependant upon the load but in any case, this means that lots of current will start flowing as soon as there is contact. Even on stage pin plugs and industrial rated receptacles, this amount of current in going instantly “hot” or live will be far too much current for such a small amount of contact in conducting the electricity. Much less should your finger stray into the plug that’s being plugged in, you will also get shocked. For this reason, a switch installed before the outlet you intend to plug into will prevent such a arcing that destroys both plug and receptacle - given it’s in the off position. For a school’s test circuit, have the maintenance staff at very least give you a Switch powered GFCI receptacle to test fixtures with. This will at very least if not a dedicated circuit to the maximum loading of the equipment you will test, prevent this hot patch condition. It should be either a internal pilot light 20 amp switch, or a dual purpose GFCI with switch that has indicator light to show power on. In using this switch to turn on the fixture once the plug is fully installed, it also ensures that your hand is not touching the plug if mis-wired. If mis wired, it’s possible the short will than melt the plug and injure you while holding it.

    Better yet would be to have them purchase for you some form of fixture test outlet that is engineered to circuit breaker and outlet for you all this stuff. Beyond me making such things for my work table or Leko prep area, commercially ETC, Altman, Lex, CAE, Motion Labs, SSRC, Union, TMB, and many many other electrical distribution equipment manufacturers can with ease engineer and manufacturer for your school such equipment for you. Such fixture test boxes are not much on the market as a pre-bought product but are very easy and fairly cheap to custom order. Beyond the Edison GFCI, it would also be able to come with the type of plug and even many types of plug used. By someone else engineering it, it will also provide liability above a student or maintenance person should it fail. Sorry, I have much too much stuff to do for shows going out to go retail, much less don’t do business on-line. This said, as a ME for a fairly major lighting company with $2Mil for liability for a basic coverage at start, many other large lighting companies can also engineer such a thing perhaps with better or less quality but still have a similar insurance thing beyond what the local supplier often will cover for. No, Jo-Bob’s garage based lights won’t be the best solution here even if well done. Stick with the major suppliers above that no doubt have even larger liability than my company has, much less has certified electrical engineers working for them that no doubt can engineer and circuit for test even more than I can in a box granted I did not ask our electronics person to do any circuit/computer analysis type of things at this point in making the better yet test box such as also possible for these above companies in having the safest ever test box. Point is that a fixture test box is a good thing but have it made for you. Don’t want to even look at what my own boxes wiring looks like as compared to what it looks like now six years later. Let’s just say that while safe, not as nice. Still even these plug in fuse sockets are rated for 30 amps as a design factor in having stuff on it that even commercially is not readily available but a good idea.

    So, in closing with this long post, yes, as long as inspected for a proper crimp, strain relief and wiring, go ahead and use the adaptor. You can see problems with “it didn’t explode” as not being a good indicator of what’s safe now. But in the long run, make with supervision a adaptor that has it’s wire size rated for the maximum capacity of it’s largest potential load in if in overload having such a problem contained within a plug rather than the cable. Given your description of a power strip cable, it can be assumed it’s 14ga wire but you might verify a 14/3 on it’s cable jacket just to be sure. Use commercial grade even Edison plugs as they are even more safe yet. Remember that you are on stage, not at home thus economical but home owner grade plugs and receptacles are not an option for your use. Always buy a commercial grade plugs and equipment. If you can’t afford such things, you can’t afford to do what you intend. Sorry we were trying to save money is not a expiation you should have for what you did while visiting someone at the hospital. Should see what even harsher grade of equipment they have to have - given they follow this as not all do.

    Still, use this cable for now and strive if this is going to be a constant thing - this adapting to test a fixture, to have a proper outlet installed while both GFCI protected and switch operated at the place you are testing from. It’s to the school’s best advantage to do so no matter the extra labor. On a test circuit, there should be little to no reason for using an adaptor. Just as now, one more component to wonder about.

    Now as for this question of better for lamps in not being hot patched, or in this case switch, yes it’s better to have a dimmer run up the current to a cold filament over a period of time if not pre-warmed with a low voltage current in the dimmed circuit already. For a test circuit, unless working with something that is more prone to shock problems in going from cold to maximum output, this will not be much of a problem, and in fact will help because it’s easier to determine than those lamps that are ready to blow and will thus blow now when going instantly to full, than having to replace the lamp once in the grid and it’s last microns of filament finally broke. In this finding the bad lamps way, such a shock to the filament is good. For other equipment such as things with low voltage, given the filament is smaller, often installing an in-line dimmer can be beneficial. Our cyc lights for instance when drawing a full 20 amps of current are better off instead of directly plugged in, on a dimmer to pre-warm the large 1Kw lamps. On a PAR 64, it’s filament is a little more rugged. All a question of the filament type also. For the most part a switch won’t hurt but if you find it frequently blows lamps, install a dimmer rated for the load between power and lamp to run the power up a little slower. On the other hand with low voltage lamps, while running the power up slowly will often help with cold lamps, leaving them at a low voltage unless a stage and studio type of low voltage lamp, much less if electronic or arc source in fixture, dimming the lamp in running it up to full and especially in lingering between off and full can be more dangerous to the equipment and lamp than going on and off. Do the switch and if necessary the dimmer next. First the switch in this test circuit.

    As for the director not being sure, it if there is no other staff tech person, I would recommend him doing some more studying if this is what he is supervising. I can send him a list if he would like, otherwise night school in lighting might be useful. One of my constant fears or pet peeves is when students are not given proper instruction by a school system in allowing for it. You know I might not have a teaching certificate, but I can instruct as it were at times just about anyone slightly above the idiot level as long as they are not a student. Lots of stage hands out there without certificates in teaching that are just as good and constantly looking for work. Given supervision as otherwise necessitated by the lack of teaching certificate, hiring someone that knows what they are doing will solve many of these problems or questions for less money than finding one of the few teachers out there that both have credentials and had more than a basic stagecraft class in training at a school that at best spent a few weeks on electrics or rigging as a subject instead of just mentioning it. Short of training, it is the responsibility of all instructors to educate themselves with all they supervise. Just as a pro tech person is constantly learning, a teacher in tech should have no less the effort.

    Hope it helps. Should there be more specific questions or if you can post a photo of what’s done we I expect will all be interested in the connector you installed, but due to it only being a photo and at very least hard to determine if the strain relief for it is installed properly, you will still need on-site eyes to verify such a thing.

    Probably going to be a late night for me on Friday - as salary staff, this is a bad thing. While I had a crew of eight people building 32A/5-Pin Cee Form type cable for me last night, in people varying in experience from someone off the street to someone that is a seasoned tour person that is safe in his own respects even if he does not build cable for a living. Got 21 out of 30 of these cables done last night. In the end, it was a young pup with say two rock tours under his belt against me the ME as it were for the shop with me giving him a few minutes of head start. Still kicked his little butt on two cables we raced on. As said, I do this stuff for a living. While carpenter and designer by training, lots of study and six years of doing just cable building, wiring, lamp buying and conventional fixture repair has honed my skills in them some given it’s now my living. The young pup while he has been assigned to me of late as “my little wiring bitch” sorry for the offense but his title in practice given I after college went directly to a Local #2 shop for nine months, the young pup never had a chance in reality. Offered him power tools for stuff like the strain relief, but he was more used to hand tools. Much less even if the Euro Crap cable type, it was still a certain finesse with getting the wire or strain relief insert to do what I wanted he could not match. Plus I had six other people hoping he would win. Had to disappoint.

    In any case, 12 more Cee Form five pin cables to make, and two L6-30 plugged follow spot cables to make in addition to a few other things. Really it’s the marking of the cable that takes the most time, but still, it’s probably going to be a late night. I can make with a trained assistant 80 stage pin cables in a normal day given both me and my assistant are constantly getting calls and questions. For the most part, still most can’t touch that. Of note is that while I don’t mind the Cee Form style, a ferrule is defiantly needed to prevent in a way much similar to a ferrule on a stage pin Bates style plug, the screw from twisting it’s way into cutting conductors, much less a bad equal pressure in general. Too bad given a 10ga cable, such a ferrule won’t fit. Instead we had to do a special pinch/fold technique to ferrule the conductors. Lots of little techniques to pick up with wiring beyond even the is it safe type of question. For instance given the ring terminals on this plug, I would assume it’s as Brian described a normal instead of flag ring terminal, even the type of crimp tool used is an important factor. Lots of detail about displacing material as opposed to just crushing the connector but it and the wire within still occupying the same amount of space. After a few thousand cables fixed, it is the little things that while fixing the stuff you have time to consider. While in many ways I did not have much instruction in lots of stuff including my first fixture fixed, I would not wish it upon others to go it alone. Thus also the long posts and me answering questions as it were as opposed to doing other things with my time. Pass it on is a rule, I got some good instruction, for me it’s pay back.
     
  13. ship

    ship Senior Team Emeritus Premium Member

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    In following this website which uses a Rosco/modern Union style plug, your wiring should be fairly safe. One problem with this type of plug is that it’s strain relief is designed for 12/3 SO wire and not for in this case 14/3 SJT wire. In other words, given a lesser dia. of wire, you need to supplement it’s size in a variety of methods to make it be gripped by the plug.

    The description is good for a 20 amp stage pin plug, get into 60 amp and other stage pin types, and it will have a different conductor layout.

    Locking stage pin plugs.... good idea, bad in practice. Those few places that have the locking stage pin plug as a dead end on the Darwin chain, please send me a sample as I have not yet saved one of these very much remembered both for a novel idea as long as it locks and as long as it’s not at some odd angle in having caught something and been ripped out of alignment at an odd angle. Still I don’t have one of these Darwin type plugs on my “Wall of Shame.” Have 10 amp baby stage pin plugs, but no locking in my collection.




    You won’t find any of these plugs in a active well funded service for the above reason. In living but not inventing the history, I expect this locking stage pin plug was a solution to the problem of once the pins kind of cone together, they easily become disconnected. The locking plug than solved this problem with coming loose given a pin spreader also was not really invented yet, much less most tech people don’t know much about spreading pin gaps. In any case, the stage pin plug in about the 1960's was popular as a alternative to the much worse versions available. Not long after such things became grounded, technology advanced and the twist lock plug became a commercial use reality. The 15 amp first than 20 amp stage pin plug in having that twist to lock part of it thus became popular thru the 80's. Many stages went twist lock during this period. Stage pin plugs during this period found a solution but it was not the best in making it work or never really worked especially when using a locking plug on a non-locking connector. Don’t lock in this condition. At some point, about with the invention of the Bates plug as a superior design in stage pin plug, and with much better pins - though not perfect, plus certain incidents of people trying in an emergency to un-plug a twist lock plug but not being able to, the industry went back to the three pin stage pin standard and remains at it.

    Interesting webiste, but avoid the pigtail description. Not much of value in description. More a question of asbestos as a material in general description than about a pig tail in description. Still if you in this other type of stage pin plug photo can in black and white photo see which is green, black and white, it will show what your plug for the most part should look like when in proper position.

    You are better off than in following the website in following the directions that come with the plug in that they will have a layout specific to conductor location, a strip length guide for both jacket and insulation on conductor, plus in having this 14ga wire, given this brand without adjustable strain reliefs, might offer some advice on how to make your cable jacket become large enough to be gripped by the strain relief. Not a bad type of plug once you are used to using them. Still as a type sold and nothing wrong with it, just different than the Bates style. Lots of places use this type.
     
  14. krhodus

    krhodus Member

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    Location:
    Dublin, OH
    I tried the converter today and it worked. Keep in mind I used it for at most a minute plugged into the light. I had no sparks or anything come from it or the light. I am looking for a professional converter. The best price I can find is from a local theater company, Brite Lites. They say $17. Does anyone know a online store that has it cheaper?

    Kevin
     
  15. bdesmond

    bdesmond Active Member

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    Location:
    Chicago, IL USA
    Sounds decent if you're only buying one ... keep in mind that the shop has labor cost in addition to parts when they sell you one.
     
  16. techieman33

    techieman33 Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    topeka, ks
    Sounds like a pretty reasonable price to me as well.
     

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