So I'm trying to figure out what to do with three 360Q lamp caps. If I remember correctly from my tests (with a gamchek only) all three seem to be making poor electrical connection. I'd already flagged these caps last year as troublesome, and took a close look at them today. The lamps only seemed to make contact when depressed at odd angles, otherwise I'd get half/partial/broken tone. Sometimes I'd just hold the cap and it'd be fine, a quick jostle in the air and I'd get constant tone, another jostle, no tone. I'm assuming these three all have poor electrical connection in the lamp base. I think my vote is for replacing the entire cap (because I like getting new stuff), though I'm wondering if attempting to solely get a lamp base replacement is a better idea. From the brief look I took at the lamp base, it seemed to have entirely internally contained wiring, no easy access to re-soldering, so I'm imagining this project would be a PITA regardless, in addition all three of these units need the brass knurl screws. At $50 a pop though these guys aren't cheap. What are the votes for here? Buy replacement caps, or try and buy a replacement part?
Twofer, I previously mentioned this guy as being straight dangerous. Freely floating pins, which led to awkward situations like only have the hot making contact. This led to some heat, fizzles, weird noises. These are the "fabric sleeve" kind of twofers, all in one connector. It appears that the issue is cramming so much 12AWG conductor into a small space, because none of the pins will sit properly. My idea is to just disassemble it and forget about it, that or bring it to the maintenance dept, and explain what it is going on, I'm not sure what the powers-at-be think though. Thoughts here?
I sorta have a dilemma with a 1KL6. It has a shattered lamp inside of it, and I can't get the %#!@ think apart to remove all the pieces. I haven't been able to get a good grip on some of the machine screws that appear to be holding it together. My next attempt will be an 8" c-wrench. I'm worried about damaging the instrument, but I believe It's unusable in its current state. Any ideas here? Is it worth it to torque it? Should I just shake the hell out of it?
(Just for clarification, E-tape does well with heat, right? For labeling on yokes. Also for clarification: sharpie writes well on the ceramic base of PARs, right?)
Twofer, I previously mentioned this guy as being straight dangerous. Freely floating pins, which led to awkward situations like only have the hot making contact. This led to some heat, fizzles, weird noises. These are the "fabric sleeve" kind of twofers, all in one connector. It appears that the issue is cramming so much 12AWG conductor into a small space, because none of the pins will sit properly. My idea is to just disassemble it and forget about it, that or bring it to the maintenance dept, and explain what it is going on, I'm not sure what the powers-at-be think though. Thoughts here?
I sorta have a dilemma with a 1KL6. It has a shattered lamp inside of it, and I can't get the %#!@ think apart to remove all the pieces. I haven't been able to get a good grip on some of the machine screws that appear to be holding it together. My next attempt will be an 8" c-wrench. I'm worried about damaging the instrument, but I believe It's unusable in its current state. Any ideas here? Is it worth it to torque it? Should I just shake the hell out of it?
(Just for clarification, E-tape does well with heat, right? For labeling on yokes. Also for clarification: sharpie writes well on the ceramic base of PARs, right?)