Exterior corners in Box set

Shane

Member
Building our first box set in years using Hollywood Flats. Interior corners are fairly simple to mask, but the exterior corners are a bit more work. Wing wall come off at a 45 deg angle and then return to parallel. I would be interested to know your preferred method for masking these exterior corners. Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.
Shane
 
what do you mean 'masking'? Often they're painted into the general look of the set, with the trimwork wrapping around the corner. Sometimes they're styled like the proscenium (if its close by) but usually only if there's a header as well. The first set of legs will tuck in behind them and look nice and clean... Are you leaving a entrance wing between the plaster line and the wall like this?

1677609128071.png
 
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Sorry, to be unclear. We are using stock hollywood flats. The framing 1x3s are set on edge, so each flat is 3-1/8" deep. Because I can't mitre the flat for protruding corners, I have a 2-1/2" gap to cover I was hoping to find how others disguise the gap as seen in the image below.
corners.jpg
 
I always built the bevel into the edge of the flat, like Bob's example above. I have seen it done by making plugs that go in there but that means more seams and finish time.
 
You can just seal the gap with paper tape before you paint the flats and then the join becomes invisible.
 
Van's right, you'll be in for some JC/spackle filling and sanding here almost no matter what--- and there are a couple of geometry traps that would be easy to miss. The gap will be too wide for a clean-looking tape fix. It's also too wide for a 2x wedge to cover the whole distance--- and that solution doesn't line the faces up correctly at the corners, really (though it's fudge-able).

Each flat frame wants to be extended with a 3-1/8" deep wedge ripped (out of 2x4?) at 22.5 degrees-- and then attached (square side against the frame) flush w/ the lauan face so that it's just more "wall" there at the corner. It mmmmmight be better to err on the slightly too-small side and fill gaps, rather than be too big and have to keep re-ripping? (Depending on if you have to do this with the walls already in place).

Do your painter a favor and try to do as much of the cosmetic fill&sand as you can before handing it over to them. This isn't a happy fix for them, I suspect-!
 
Van's right, you'll be in for some JC/spackle filling and sanding here almost no matter what--- and there are a couple of geometry traps that would be easy to miss. The gap will be too wide for a clean-looking tape fix. It's also too wide for a 2x wedge to cover the whole distance--- and that solution doesn't line the faces up correctly at the corners, really (though it's fudge-able).

Each flat frame wants to be extended with a 3-1/8" deep wedge ripped (out of 2x4?) at 22.5 degrees-- and then attached (square side against the frame) flush w/ the lauan face so that it's just more "wall" there at the corner. It mmmmmight be better to err on the slightly too-small side and fill gaps, rather than be too big and have to keep re-ripping? (Depending on if you have to do this with the walls already in place).

Do your painter a favor and try to do as much of the cosmetic fill&sand as you can before handing it over to them. This isn't a happy fix for them, I suspect-!
This is essentially what I did, although I used 1x. because it could bend and flex a little more to cover irregularities. We are a school so we use a lot of stock, so building flats that are beveled is just a bridge too far. Although, I do think We will learn the lesson and create some 45 deg. plugs for the future. Thanks to you all for your expertise!
 
I guess I'm too used to our flattage where we can offset the joint hinges to make the gaps manageable so even outside corners can have relatively small gaps. We've never had to cut wedges to fill gaps.
 

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