feeder tails

brin831

Member
hi guys i'm looking for a good solution to making our feeder tails a little more durable ... the copper ends get frayed going in and out of generator lugs and getting clamped down over and over ... any thoughts or products or links to products to cover the copper ends ... sorry if this isn't clear enough just let me know ...
 
hi guys i'm looking for a good solution to making our feeder tails a little more durable ... the copper ends get frayed going in and out of generator lugs and getting clamped down over and over ... any thoughts or products or links to products to cover the copper ends ... sorry if this isn't clear enough just let me know ...

Copper sleeves over the ends. There was a company supplying them this way, thought it was LEX, but couldn't find them on their site. Trick is to find the right size tubing. One good rundown in a ball type connector and they're on for good. No more stray strands.

Usually, the cams themselves are supplied with copper foil for use in the connector, which takes care of that end. Foil is too flimsy for the pigtail end.
 
I've always thought that "the cost of doing business" involving tails always involved cutting them fresh at the shop, stripping the insulator, and then e-tapeing it. When you get onsite, pull the run, pull the tape, lug it down... move on. Yes, you will lose 2" of cable length every time you do this, however, your going to get a solid connection every time. If you start with 8' tails, you will need to replace the copper every 50 gigs or so. Not the end of the world. Its worth a bit of copper to ensure whatever load you have on the other end of the feeder stays hot.

Depending on how the end comes out of the lug, its pretty common so re-tape the end, sometimes you can get one more wear out of it.
 
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We always retape tails when we pull them. I had a LD flip on me once for cutting his tails. They were absolutely mangled so I trimed them and he melted down. Must have been new.
 
hey thanks for everyone's reply ... i've seen the copper caps any idea where you would get them or have someone cap them for you yeah 50 gigs is a lot however when your doing that many if not more in a year and there is no way the feeder, or cams are worn out at that point it just seems to me there should be a better way >>>
 
...50 gigs is a lot however when your doing that many if not more in a year and there is no way the feeder, or cams are worn out at that point it just seems to me there should be a better way >>>

You can always pull apart a cam and just replace the cable. Yes, its a HUGE pain to do and you need a special tool to do it. This is just one more reason why I despise tails. Some gennies out there have cams on them, its the way to go if you can...
 
Well, you can despise tails all you want, but until everyone pays for cams to be installed, we will have to deal with them for a long time.
 
hi guys i'm looking for a good solution to making our feeder tails a little more durable ... the copper ends get frayed going in and out of generator lugs and getting clamped down over and over ... any thoughts or products or links to products to cover the copper ends ... sorry if this isn't clear enough just let me know ...

This discussion actually raises another interesting question. Extra hard usage portable feeder cable of the approved types generally comes in Class K stranding, which is many #30 AWG strands in a rope lay. Many commonly available setscrew lugs are not listed for use with Class K stranding, because the compression mechanism (often a setscrew) will deform and break the fine strands. A good practical workaround for this problem is to use copper foil (just like the stuff that comes with Cam-Loks) in these lugs. However, it is still a workaround and does not "fix" the listing problem.

Unless you are using a permanent crimp compression lug listed for Class K, it is much safer to trim the cable to get rid of those deformed and/or broken strands each time you terminate to a different lug.

ST
 
I wasn't aware of a compliance issue, thanks Terry. I am glad we have installed cams in almost every building I use frequently. Also most of the generators I use have cams now.
 
Not sure if it's legal, but I keep a roll of hobby type, single stranded copper wire around and I'll use it to wrap the bare end into a tighter bundle. Works best when the bare ends are fresh and you use the single stranded stuff all the time.
 
Not sure if it's legal, but I keep a roll of hobby type, single stranded copper wire around and I'll use it to wrap the bare end into a tighter bundle. Works best when the bare ends are fresh and you use the single stranded stuff all the time.

I think you should break some of that budget free and get some foil! :)

ST
 
Not sure if it's legal, but I keep a roll of hobby type, single stranded copper wire around and I'll use it to wrap the bare end into a tighter bundle. Works best when the bare ends are fresh and you use the single stranded stuff all the time.

Remember back in the 70's doing the same thing. Long strand of #16 copper, and carefully wrapping the strands together before they went into the Tweko and cranking it down. When I switched over to Cams, the copper foil took over.

(@brin831) Just whatever you do, don't tin the ends! It's a great temptation, and I saw a sound company that did it and said they never had problems. I suspect it was due to the low current level, but for the stuff we work with, it's a guaranteed hot spot or fire!

I do remember a company that used to braze the ends. Never figured out how they did it without burning up six inches of insulation in the process! (Or melting the copper.)
 
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(@brin831) Just whatever you do, don't tin the ends! It's a great temptation, and I saw a sound company that did it and said they never had problems. I suspect it was due to the low current level, but for the stuff we work with, it's a guaranteed hot spot or fire!

yeah thats a no no i'm fully aware of this issue and had to instruct some of our new guys who scoffed at having to trim the thick gauge wire and asked why they couldn't just tin the ends ...

I do remember a company that used to braze the ends. Never figured out how they did it without burning up six inches of insulation in the process! (Or melting the copper.)

i have heard of this before also and have a brother in law that runs a foundry wonder may give him a shout and see what he says ...

and i do wish they would just put cams on gens and lots of places locally have gone that way especially since locally we have developed a good relationship with renters and they know what we are looking for ... however you go "out of network" and you just don't know what you're gonna get.
 
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I think you should break some of that budget free and get some foil! :)

ST

Hey, we're about to buy 128 more Source 4's, so no comments from you about where I spend our taxpayers money....

Actually, I may have picked up the copper single strand trick while on tour a few decades ago and in truth, copper foil never occurred to me. Haven't used the copper wire in a long time as I keep my tails installed.
 
Remember back in the 70's doing the same thing. Long strand of #16 copper, and carefully wrapping the strands together before they went into the Tweko and cranking it down. When I switched over to Cams, the copper foil took over.

(@brin831) Just whatever you do, don't tin the ends! It's a great temptation, and I saw a sound company that did it and said they never had problems. I suspect it was due to the low current level, but for the stuff we work with, it's a guaranteed hot spot or fire!

I do remember a company that used to braze the ends. Never figured out how they did it without burning up six inches of insulation in the process! (Or melting the copper.)

Compression lugs, whether setscrew or crimp, rely on the ductility and flow characteristics of copper to create a broad surface area for the contact between the wire and the lug. As soon as copper is tinned, it becomes a solid object with little ductility and not much ability to flow under compression. This creates point contacts between the wire and the lug, which are the source of temperature rise.

This is why it is important to use all types of lugs only with their listed wire types, installation tools, and torque values, where applicable.

ST
 

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