I have a working experience with the 10,000
Watt "Big Eye" Tener Solarspot . Big, heavy and hard to work on. Converted them into
LED fixtures in fact - not my choice, or the
current gray color - also not my choice. Some of them just left on a tour this past weekend. Should note them if you look - way
down stage on pantographs.
Still though, in removing parts and servicing them in 10K - 1K in the older
line, a few dozen I have serviced and a few I brought back to factory
stock condition. Mostly all are the same in concept and style.
“I've removed the
yolk and and
lens casing and I have the
barrel up on the work bench. The
Reflector mechanism and electrics were previously removed because of a prior issue.
I went over one panel with a scouring pad and some liquid strip and it seemed to work, but it took me an hour and a half just to remove paint on the areas that were easily accessible. I went over some other areas with a dremal tool but that seemed to
gouge the metal pretty badly. I also tried an
ellipsoidal sander and that didn't do anything.”
I take it for granted that you are trying to remove the paint from the louvered panels for some reason - could be rust
etc.
Don’t use chemical strippers as this ain’t woodwork or normal paint you are attempting to remove, it’s high temperature paint which is different. Beyond that, what residue is left in areas you cannot get at short of un-welding the casing and re-fabricating it will burn and later rust.
Scouring pad sure but not very efficient. Sand paper in say 100
thru 120grit, sure. Dremmel tool as with the do you mean right angle sander? Probably too aggressive of blades or types of blade.
If trying to remove the paint, a sand blaster would probably be most efficient in doing so. You can change the grit in perhaps a medium grit being the best balance in
thickness of metal to hardness of paint to remove.
After that, you can get various Scotch Brite pads for a right angle grinder - I would go fine, as with for Dremmel where similar silicone fiber wheels are available - for this I would go medium to course. Plus Flap sanding discs in 80-120 grit after for either tool are also available. In removing paint, I would avoid other than course silicone fiber wheels as they would clog up too easily.
There is options out there. Main question is why you are chemical stripping seemingly all paint off the
fixture? Was it completely surface rusted or pock marked or something? Chemical strippers don’t un-do rust as needing to sand after anyway. This plus for the most part the paint should be fine, if a problem with rust - the stripper won’t solve that problem.
What’s your goal in removing the paint that a feathered
edge to any bad areas wouldn’t
cover up? This especially if re-painting as Mole Maroon which is a fairly thick and forgiving paint? Shouldn’t be able to tell the difference in it’s use with what areas are worked on verses a cleaned
base coat in painting.
Sand blasting is the only way to properly remove the paint if you want to re-lamp it. Might be some dipping possible - theoretically. Why completely remove the paint?
I would be more concerned about the parts you removed especially
asbestos lens pads, wiring, under-base pads
etc. if not wiring.
Base and if you got a lamp with it most often can get a re-surfacing. Screws holding the
base together and mounting it will often have a galvanic reaction in rusting and being in need of replacement. Heck, depending on the age, your
insulator pads might also be
asbestos. Possible to in theory seal them, or means you need to buy new.
Post phots and let us know how this project goes. Me, I would sand blast what you did or at least start with thinner
etc. in trying to get rid of the residue of what chemicals you have applied remain. What damage you have done could be worse than the rust if it starts on fire or after painting, makes it not stick and promotes rust. Not a chair, don't use chemicals. This is an important
point to make - it's a concept similar to using chemical strippers on say a wood burning stove in concept. Goal is to avoid a
house fire or further rust.
I highly recommend the Mole Maroon spray paint by the way - good stuff.
