Floor Mount for C-Clamps

Any reason to not use wood?
I was thinking of using unistrut because you could install the U bolts so that the nuts are neatly hidden inside the strut. Plus the durability of all metal would be great.

That said, if you took a square cut of 3/4" plywood and attached a piece of 1x2 on each end to lift it up off the ground, it would allow space underneath for the nuts.
 
Any reason to not use wood?
If you're considering wood, may I suggest cutting your plywood into triangles rather than squares.?
I'm envisioning isoscelese (Sp?) triangles; two equal sides and two equal angles.
- Triangles will nest tighter (when in use) if you need to cluster several fixtures tightly together.
- Triangles will always settle on their three feet and remain stable.
- Rather than bolting up through the plywood, consider inserting a 3 or 4 prong 1/2 - 13 Tee nut from the underside then bolting your fixtures in place with a suitable length 1/2-13 hex head bolt using a split ( or external tooth) lock washer directly under the bolt's head, followed by a flat washer, your fixture's yoke, another flat washer to keep your fixture's yoke from digging into the plywood, the plywood, and finally engaging with the tee nut.

On the triangle's three corners, add tiny triangular 3/4" plywood feet glued and nailed into position as far from center / close to the corners, as possible. You may consider installing two 1/2 - 13 Tee nuts, one centered and one further back from the triangle's narrowest corner to provide the best mechanical advantage when mounting longer ellipsoidals.
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard
 
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One square foot of 1/4" steel weighs how much?.... (forgot... 7#?) One square foot of 7-Ply 3/4" plywood, or a double stack of it for more weight and easier bolting than doing a 1/2" countersunk T-Nut weighs how much? Cut to triangular shape weighs how much less?

Something stacked above the base to mount the light on a C-Clamp not considered as distance of weight from the base is random. Not nominal but not considered other than say 3" from base plate in close enough to it.

Say 36 degree S-4 Leko weighs how much? Balance point is of course the yoke, but safety factor at 50% weight of the fixture should be weight and that spread across the surface area for fixture pointing down on a ledge due to idiot proofing. So the correct size and weight of such a base in various materials is what?

What specifically is the proper say "Hurbie" plate in base plate size of 1/4" steel. Much less 3/4" 7-ply plywood, and double ply but with say 6" square of the double ply instead of a full double ply 12" base. This verses a double ply full 12" base. Circular base size?

A lot of math to calculate - but an easy standard to set. Base should equal fixture weight with standoff no larger than 3" would be a good standard starting point. And safety cabled.
 
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If you're considering wood, may I suggest cutting your plywood into triangles rather than squares.?
I'm envisioning isoscelese (Sp?) triangles; two equal sides and two equal angles.
- Triangles will nest tighter (when in use) if you need to cluster several fixtures tightly together.
- Triangles will always settle on their three feet and remain stable.
- Rather than bolting up through the plywood, consider inserting a 3 or 4 prong 1/2 - 13 Tee nut from the underside then bolting your fixtures in place with a suitable length 1/2-13 hex head bolt using a split ( or external tooth) lock washer directly under the bolt's head, followed by a flat washer, your fixture's yoke, another flat washer to keep your fixture's yoke from digging into the plywood, the plywood, and finally engaging with the tee nut.

On the triangle's three corners, add tiny triangular 3/4" plywood feet glued and nailed into position as far from center / close to the corners, as possible. You may consider installing two 1/2 - 13 Tee nuts, one centered and one further back from the triangle's narrowest corner to provide the best mechanical advantage when mounting longer ellipsoidals.
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard
This idea definitely works if you are willing to remove the C-Clamp. I've bolted light fixtures directly to a variety of set pieces, flats, platforms and plywood floor plates over the years. But that takes us down another fascinating road of discussion as, the original poster was looking for a solution that would not require removing the C-clamps.
 
A couple of thoughts:
  • Triangles are easier to topple; squares are more likely to slide from a lateral force.
  • Fixture weight is largely irrelevant as long as the base is reasonably sized relative to the fixture it is supporting and the center of mass is close to the center of the supporting base.
  • These are floor bases. Why would a safety chain be required?
  • Give some consideration to how the bases will be stored. Ideally they should nest for compact storage.
  • With deference to the wisdom of Ron H., the point of the exercise is to avoid removing the C-clamp.
 
A couple of thoughts:
  • Triangles are easier to topple; squares are more likely to slide from a lateral force.
  • Fixture weight is largely irrelevant as long as the base is reasonably sized relative to the fixture it is supporting and the center of mass is close to the center of the supporting base.
  • These are floor bases. Why would a safety chain be required?
  • Give some consideration to how the bases will be stored. Ideally they should nest for compact storage.
  • With deference to the wisdom of Ron H., the point of the exercise is to avoid removing the C-clamp.
When I conjured my triangular floor mounts, I was attempting to mount seven 6 x 16's per side separated as little as possible to simulate a rainbow on a pale blue sky cloth. The production was a local choir's annual concert in a black box space and the stage was a collection of 2' x 4' x 8' risers.
The bases were triangular for lateral nesting purposes, the clamps were removed to reduce height AFF and the bases were screwed to the deck for stability and to maintain lateral positioning.

The seven colo(u)rs rose at ~45 degrees overlapping on the cloth's center line in a vertical column of diamonds.
The effect lit in sequential order in time with the intro' to the song Rainbow Connection with front light being added as the eighth fade in time for the vocals.
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard
 
If I was making my own, I think I would shift the pipe to about 25% in from one end. As my fine drawing below illustrates. Seems like this would be more stable and easier to store.
a very good idea. that slight change also allows for adding 'foot protection' or a sandbag, if one wanted. i worked for some major dance companies back in my day and the issue for shin busters was always to get as close to the floor as possible. so there's that, when considering to NOT remove a C-clamp. Designer's decision, in the end.
 
When I conjured my triangular floor mounts, I was attempting to mount seven 6 x 16's per side separated as little as possible to simulate a rainbow on a pale blue sky cloth. The production was a local choir's annual concert in a black box space and the stage was a collection of 2' x 4' x 8' risers.
The bases were triangular for lateral nesting purposes, the clamps were removed to reduce height AFF and the bases were screwed to the deck for stability and to maintain lateral positioning.

The seven colo(u)rs rose at ~45 degrees overlapping on the cloth's center line in a vertical column of diamonds.
The effect lit in sequential order in time with the intro' to the song Rainbow Connection with front light being added as the eighth fade in time for the vocals.
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard
Just thinking about the rainbow connection songmakes me cry. WE LOVE YOU KERMIT
 
Just thinking about the rainbow connection songmakes me cry. WE LOVE YOU KERMIT
Rainbow Connection ended the choir's first act. With seven colo(u)rs available, I was able to use two or three of the colo(u)rs individually to decorate the cyc' for various numbers without blowing the load by revealing the rainbow 'til act's end.

I also used a few breakup gobos with diagonally split colo (Oh heck; be American, leave the U out) rs and, of course, I used a large magenta rose for Bette Middler's hit song of the same name.
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard
 
Rainbow Connection ended the choir's first act. With seven colo(u)rs available, I was able to use two or three of the colo(u)rs individually to decorate the cyc' for various numbers without blowing the load by revealing the rainbow 'til act's end.

I also used a few breakup gobos with diagonally split colo (Oh heck; be American, leave the U out) rs and, of course, I used a large magenta rose for Bette Middler's hit song of the same name.
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard
Just leave the U in colour in. Makes us americans envious that if we put a U in color, we'd get endlessly jabbed for it. You get the hono(u)r of using it legitimately!
 
Just leave the U in colour in. Makes us americans envious that if we put a U in color, we'd get endlessly jabbed for it. You get the hono(u)r of using it legitimately!
Thank you @macsound Sean and Kate will be pleased.
I'd often omit the U when posting and occasionally I'd get taken to task by one of my countrymen.
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard
 
I thought Canucks were way too cool to take anyone to task for anything besides wasting good beer!

T
Clearly you've watched too many episodes of 'Trailer Park Boys' and / or Doug and whoever the other guy was.
Alex Trebek was among our best.
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard
 
I'm a big fan of things that nest. And I had a couple free minutes so I'll toss my idea out.
 

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The McKenzie's! Bob and Doug were way cool! Loved those guys! Enthusiastic and optimistic. And, agreed, Alex was a witty gentleman who kept an old game show relevant.
Sex In The City's Samantha was another of our better exports.
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard
 

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