I own my former high school's 1970's era 3Kw incandescent
Kliegl Dyna Beam with Boomerang
, and it's in mint condition including the Roscolene gel
last used in it. As big as a small moter cycle and no doubt as heavy. Don't even make that lamp any longer.
I normally service our gear plus 1000Q, Club Spots and Midgits for the local schools and clubs. Yearly maintinence is the key to all, but I have seen some 1000Q fixtures with welds that snap
at the yoke
mount or broken castings for the lens
mounts. Easy enough to fix or replace. Note on taking apart a 1000Q, should you need to slide something off the rail
, use a metal scribe to mark
where it was before you remove it. Otherwise, focusing is a bear. While a dealer for Strong, I'm yet to service any of it's equipment.
For inventory use at work, City Theatrical
on a stick. Lycian
1271 and 1272. 2kw Xenon Lycian
1290 and the Lycian
M-2. Might be getting some 3Kw Xenon Lycian
1293 fixtures this summer also.
Wouldn't mind the extra punch for my yearly football stadium show. That given it's a pain in the rear in the first place to install a Xenon lamp
- only a limited amount of people are allowed to install them thus more often than I would like it's me, thus my yearly show plus some.
All unfortunately I'm by default often the person to service or supervise in, though I bow down to one of our crew chiefs in general knowledge as the real expert for how it works beyond it's wiring, or the electronics repair/moving light repair area for knowledge about making them strike
an arc. Them little electronic parts get me all the time. Good thing Lycian
has a compitent staff that will walk you thru
The 1271/2 are getting old and have normal lubrication and replacement/burnt up part issues as a constant thing. Some of the reflectors get interesting after a few years of use. Overall, good reliable fixtures. Lens
changing on them can be less than easy but that's it's own after market upgrade. The ballast
(weighs a ton) in common to both on the other hand
had a huge overhaul in a few wee design flaws in the design. Now they are good to go. Some voltage drop
and lots of heat realated issues to the internal wires, much less the shunt switch
to it likes to break. This in addition to color frames all around that at times need some grinding to their lock mechanism to make them engauge.
The 1290 other than it's pulley system
slipping off it't guide track
in transport is very reliable. Never had a gernade go off after I installed a lamp, but it happens infrequently more so with some "qualified tech people" than others. A scratch in a lamp will cause it to explode with a big noise and lots of concussion.
Much less that 6" Cathode
cable normal to this type of Xenon lamp
must be at all times 1" from any surface of the fixture
. Otherewise there is enough current
to arc to the frame and melt down that wire
feeding the lamp as path of least resistance. Luckily, no matter the brand, they all use the same threading into the lamp for it's cable. Once someone explodes the lamp, save that cable.
Just don't drop
while installing. Once it falls, there is about a 99% chance it will fall down the hole for the squerrel fan, and only the most dainty of female hands than can get the nut
and lock washer out than short of taking apart the fixture
Yea, lots of experience both in buying $400 to $600.00 lamps to these fixtures and in working with them. At one point
, some show was lifting a fixture
up to a scaffold
tower but forgot to strap the fixture
to the lift. It fell and no matter what I did in making it work, we still had to send
it back for over a few $K worth of re-alignment and replacement reflector
. Luckily Lycian
for fixtures as expensive as a car will send
out free replacement fixtures to replace the ones you send
back for service. At that point
, it was just a question of shipping a fixture
that needs four people to lift overnignt.
Oh the other hand
, it's one heck of a Gobo projector
. Long story about glass pattern
gobos for Prince I was in default doing a show for given the tech at the time installed it but forgot to bench focus
it. Still they have one heck of a beam projection. Unfortunately Lycian
does not have a glass pattern gobo holder
so I had to invent one.
Our M2 Follow Spots are beginning to have problems now that they are a year or more old. First and almost constantly it was the heat shield
lenses popping off. The High Temperature RTV
Silicone used to attach the dichroic
glass to the stamped metal frame at times just is not a good bond and the lens
pops off. Found another just this week.
Had one come back with some burnt up iris
leafs. Luckily it's the same as used on a ETC
or Altman Leko
as far as Iris
design and while a pain in the rear to replace, for two leafs needing replacement it was cost effective. We have spares of the stock iris
leafs. The Iris
than got a general cleaning and spray graphite coating. Good as new or better.
All ballasts went thru
a total replacement for something that would work with voltage drop
issues, than a second upgrade to them. Get around 96v, and it causes problems in the striking of the arc. No doubt as it should but has been found to be the case in some instances.
Had a M2 on my work table this week. What a pain in the rear given the electronics and it's cause - won't strike
an arc even with new lamp and ballast
Never found the issue and it struck right up in the end, but I did find some issues with why some of the lamps in them are breaking in a specific location as now found to be a heat shield
touching the lamp issue. Next week all fixtures will be set up and a minor adjustment or re-engineering will be done in the shop with vendor tech support awaiting our call
for what to do. Somehow the lock mechanism for the lamp the heat shield
is attached to has slipped in now allowing the heat sink
to touch the lamp and break it. Two +/- $300 dollar lamps last week blown in the same way, this week I learned the cause.
But in studying why this fixture
would not strike
a arc, I had to go to school in how to take apart the fixture
. It's a component based light and in theory easy to take apart. Once I got down to the ballast
assembly in not finding a loose or burnt up wire
otherwise as cause for it not to strike
an arc, I found a difficult problem.
The moment I dropped that ballast
, I found something sliding within the assembly. We are talking about a box for the feeder
cable strain relief
, a plate that mounts under the fixture
and a circuit
board with all types of things mounted to it.
Easy enough to remove the ballast
assembly, but a very complex electronic ballast
. Metal parts were sliding around somewhere inside it, and given all other parts were now exposed, it had to be the box the cable gets it's strain relief
Opened up the strain relief fitting
on the wire
feeding it, took out a flash light and saw a screw, a brad
that normally mounts a gel
to a frame and a 4" cable tie
within this little box. How such things got in there I have no idea given a 1" hole in the bottom of the ballast
plate the wire
comes out of, but they did need to get removed.
Pleeding as it were with my boss did no good in me just sending it to the electronics repair area - that has more experience with such circuit
boards. The only way to get at this little box that housed the fixture cord
was to remove it from the under follow spot plate. Unfortunately by way of wee bit
of design flaw, it was screwed to the plate by way of four screws top (inside) mounted to the plate - and under the the circuit
board and it's various capacitors etc
. Absolutely no way to get the screw, and other gack out of the strain relief
box under the fixture
short of taking apart the circuit
board assembly above it. Everything is attached to the circuit
board and it's all attached to the metal plate under the fixture
Tried playing the "wrong union man" excuse in these components needed to get at the wire
way mounting screws attached to the circuit
board that in intimidation would need to be removed, but it did not work with my boss. "Do your best."
Luckily after removing like 20 screws both mounting the circuit
board and other components to the bottom plate, it was for the most part now free. Just a question of lots of things to remember in re-assembly. I got lucky in my boss's assumption that it can't be that difficult in it not being that difficult in reality. Won't admit the difficulty level
on the other hand
once I did have access to this cavity that housed the parts to remove. Instead of threading the strain relief
for the feeding wire
, they also had a nut
on it meaning that you should avoid taking the wire strain relief
to the fixture
apart, much less should it come loose as normal, you also need to completely take apart the ballast
to tighten it.
Just one little electrical box that serves no purpose other than to mount the strain relief
and it's a few hours of work to get to. wee bit
of a design flaw in otherwise much easier to surface mount and reverse the screws mounting it.
Anyway, never found the source of why it would not strike
an arc, but I'm tinking a screen
over this patricular hole in addition to the 1290's squerrel fan hole would be a good idea.
as a company I most deal with is good, and certainly the details I deal with are with hard usage type issues, but they will work with you on the upgrade. All companies will work with you on the upgrade or repair, it's just the company I most deal with in repair.