Hanging rotating windows on a track

Mack

Member
Hi. I'm hoping to pick some brains for this project... Imagine if you will, a relatively empty stage with some furniture pieces for different scenes. Running across the entire stage, about 12' above the deck, are two parallel traveler tracks or Unistrut tracks running SR-SL. From these tracks hang a dozen different wooden windows - just the window frames themselves. They are covered in scrim, painted different ways, etc, and can be moved on and off stage along the tracks via the actors. So, no walls, just windows and furniture on stage. Pretty easy. Except that each window also has to be able to rotate at least 180 degrees on a central pivot as well - and stay held in position once placed. So I can't just rig two points on each window to two separate trolleys in the track. I need to make one solid center pipe connect each window to the track, in such a way that the window stays where it needs to stay, in the position an actor sets in in for each scene, front or back. I have attached a drawing of the concept. I'm wondering if any of you fine folks have any suggestions for me regarding hardware or design. I'm thinking 1-1/2" steel pipe for rigidity, with a solid flange connecting it to a 2-wheel trolley of my making, and a flange at the window itself that can rotate but not loose enough that the window can easily get bumped out of position. I'm especially interested in hardware ideas. Thanks for the feedback! (The show is Will Eno's Middletown)
 

Attachments

  • window.JPG
    window.JPG
    26.5 KB · Views: 203
The design seems solid. For the hardware to rotate, I would look for a pillow block to mount to the trolley and the window.

Sent from my SM-J320P using Tapatalk
 
I think you could use a 4 or 6 wheel carrier - like H&H Specialties scenery carrier - and suspend window on a thread rod - I think the carrier's take 1/2" . You would have to attach windows at their center of gravity, maybe balance a little with small weights, but otherwise seems less clunky than pipe.
 
I'd suggest a short pipe (8" or so) connected to the window. A bolt would be threaded into this pipe. The window pipe would slide inside the suspended pipe. The suspended pipe would have a slot, slightly larger than the bolt diameter, extending horizontally 180 degrees. At each end of the slots, you could have a slight drop for the suspended bolt to rest (think "detent").

I guess the problem with this is weakening the suspension pipe with the slot that essentially cuts it in half. If that's the case, you could have two bolts, 180 degrees apart and 90-degree slots.

Not sure if I attached the drawing correctly. Hopefully it's a useful concept.

 
I'd suggest a short pipe (8" or so) connected to the window. A bolt would be threaded into this pipe. The window pipe would slide inside the suspended pipe. The suspended pipe would have a slot, slightly larger than the bolt diameter, extending horizontally 180 degrees. At each end of the slots, you could have a slight drop for the suspended bolt to rest (think "detent").

I guess the problem with this is weakening the suspension pipe with the slot that essentially cuts it in half. If that's the case, you could have two bolts, 180 degrees apart and 90-degree slots.

Not sure if I attached the drawing correctly. Hopefully it's a useful concept.



EDIT: instead of two bolts, run a threaded rod (redi-bolt?) all the way through the pipe, extending just past the OD of the suspension pipe. This would be much stronger.
 
EDIT: instead of two bolts, run a threaded rod (redi-bolt?) all the way through the pipe, extending just past the OD of the suspension pipe. This would be much stronger.
Second Edit: OK, I'm an idiot. 2 90-degree slots opposite don't equal 1 continuous 180-degree slot. You'd have to use the single 180-degree slot to get the entire 180-degree rotation.
 
Thanks for the ideas, folks. Much appreciated, and good thoughts. I settled on an inexpensive "c-rail festoon" track and carriers, meant for IT and/or electric cables (example: http://www.hubbell-gleason.com/preeng/FestKits.html). Plastic carriers for it are only $10 each, and easily adjusted for my use. From the track down: I'm attaching a 1-0" x 4" plywood board between two carriers, then a 3/4" threaded pipe flange to the board, and hanging a length of 3/4" black pipe down towards the window unit. From the top of the window going up, I have another threaded 3/4" pipe flange and 3" of pipe length. Where the two pipes meet, I'm using a female-to-female water hose fitting that rotates (ex: https://www.amazon.com/Nelson-Industrial-Fitting-Swivel-50574/dp/B0015AUSTC). Making about a dozen of them. This set design reminds me of all the doorways on the conveyors in "Monsters, Inc."
 
I'd suggest a short pipe (8" or so) connected to the window. A bolt would be threaded into this pipe. The window pipe would slide inside the suspended pipe. The suspended pipe would have a slot, slightly larger than the bolt diameter, extending horizontally 180 degrees. At each end of the slots, you could have a slight drop for the suspended bolt to rest (think "detent").

I guess the problem with this is weakening the suspension pipe with the slot that essentially cuts it in half. If that's the case, you could have two bolts, 180 degrees apart and 90-degree slots.

Not sure if I attached the drawing correctly. Hopefully it's a useful concept.

Afraid I'm unable to see the image, for some reason. But I wish I could. I appreciate your suggestion.
 
The design seems solid. For the hardware to rotate, I would look for a pillow block to mount to the trolley and the window.

Sent from my SM-J320P using Tapatalk
Thanks. That is a good idea. I'm going to try a garden hose swivel first. These "windows" will be pretty light - pine frames covered in painted scrim.
 
I think you could use a 4 or 6 wheel carrier - like H&H Specialties scenery carrier - and suspend window on a thread rod - I think the carrier's take 1/2" . You would have to attach windows at their center of gravity, maybe balance a little with small weights, but otherwise seems less clunky than pipe.
Thanks, Bill. Great suggestion but those are so darn expensive and I'll never use them enough here to justify the cost. I discovered "festoon" track and carriers, and they will do the trick for my use. These windows are actually really pretty light - pine frames covered in scrim.
 
Thanks, Bill. Great suggestion but those are so darn expensive and I'll never use them enough here to justify the cost. I discovered "festoon" track and carriers, and they will do the trick for my use. These windows are actually really pretty light - pine frames covered in scrim.

I did say "like". Here is one i built for a sliding door in my kitchen remodel.

IMG_20150530_134219.jpg
IMG_20150530_134925.jpg


I imagine you could take two 2 wheel curtain carriers and connect them with a thread rod to get the stability. Just looking for a carrier that doesn't swing along the axis of its axle, and a bit of a stiff connection in the vertical.
 
Just to be clear: will these windows ever be over head?

If so, I hate to be a downer, but the festoon track you've linked does not carry any weight rating, and states "Designed for cable loads only." Unfortunately, "pretty light" is not a risk assessment. If it would hurt if it fell on you, it needs rated hardware.

I'm guessing your windows are only a couple feet off the ground, and are probably OK. But consider: what would happen if the hardware failed? If it could hurt anyone, you need better hardware.
 
Just to be clear: will these windows ever be over head?

If so, I hate to be a downer, but the festoon track you've linked does not carry any weight rating, and states "Designed for cable loads only." Unfortunately, "pretty light" is not a risk assessment. If it would hurt if it fell on you, it needs rated hardware.

I'm guessing your windows are only a couple feet off the ground, and are probably OK. But consider: what would happen if the hardware failed? If it could hurt anyone, you need better hardware.
Not a downer at all. I appreciate the concern, and you are correct in your assessment. They do make different festoon carriers, and I have decided to go with metal carriers instead of the plastic ones for this reason, but each unit will weigh no more than 20 lbs, and will only be a few feet above ground with no people under them ever, only in front or behind.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back