So programming a light board is a pain in the rear ha? Try running the same
effect on a two scene
preset with the normal scene on the X/Y
fader and the
cyc dimmers in indipendant mode so you can control their rate seperately and thus match the
fade up rate.
In other words, programming if not easy enough becomes an opportunity to figure out how to make it become easy.
I expect that in writing a
cue on most boards today you can increase or decrease the
fade up rate of specific dimmers within a
cue, we are not talking about a early 90's light board where
fade up rate and group masters on a memory was still new here after all.
Given this is still not a possibility to control specific dimmers on a different rate, what about assiging two cues to the scene by way of link so that the ones that
fade up slower get a sooner start yet the other lights in their own time cross
fade to follow and match the pace to the end of the
fade. Just a timing issue of no doubt a second or two given the new maximum rate of up-fade is now in matching the larger/high wattage filaments.
Otherwise two cues involving all lights and linked to "go" when the first
cue reaches completion. Say Lekos to 40% on
cue one, than Lekos to FF along with
Cyc to FF in piling on them to your
cue thus by timing of actual up-fade time and percentages necessary you still achieve the same end result. Chances are you are going to be getting a slight glow anyway off the Lekos and it won't make much notice when being cross faded against the last
cue.
Still it would be just easier to slow down the dimmers that control the smaller
filament lamps. Switching to analog/linear verses ... or was that analog verses linear
dimmer curve for the specific dimmers might be an option as advised and it might be possible for the CD-80 to do this, or might be possible to control this at the soft patch of the board. Don't know, I do remember that at an old theater there was both types of
dimmer available thus one was specifically for the
cyc lights - but it's been a lot of years.
Hope it's of use in some way = my musings on it at least to me seeming easy enough to program.
By the way, this might also be an issue of
trim settings. You can boost the
trim of your dimmers on the Lekos so their lamp warming
current is a
bit higher as long as you turn it back down after the show. This is done normally with a TRUE
RMS voltage meter and a 1Kw
PAR fixture for load and also to look at what you are doing in trimming it. CD-80 packs are easy to
trim. Adjust the lights to the
point that when dark there is just a
bit of glow to the lamps as opposed to them being for the most part dark but still having the 7 to about 15v warming
current. At this
point, no doubt about 20v, you will hopefully have sufficient jump start to your Lekos so they can come up to the same
level at the same speed as the
cyc lights. Such
cyc light dimmers might also be trimmed down to their lowest setting which will still let them achieve say 95% of the maximum
voltage and thus also take a little longer to heat up - but only slightly.