# Conventional FixturesHELP Strand LEKO 2200 Series Missing Parts

#### herbiethemisfit

##### Member
Greetings All!

This is my first post since joining recently. I've been doing a lot of reading so far and I am now looking for a little advice.

I have the opportunity to purchase several used Strand Leko's for a fairly decent price (under $100 each). These units are the ones released around 1992. From what I can gather they are the last generation before the SL series was released. I've managed to find a little documentation on the (data sheets) but not much else. Question #1 - Does anyone have first-hand experience with these, and if so what are your opinions of them? (common issues, reliability, quality, availability of replacement parts, etc.) Question #2 - Is that a good deal for these units? A little bit about my applications. I run lights and sound for a couple different community theatre groups in the area. One is stationed in an old church and the other performs at a few different venues. So my setup (so far) is very portable. I currently have 2 ETC PAR's (with the interchangable lenses), four portable 4-channel dimmer packs, and an Enttec USB-to-DMX converter with Lightfactory software. Up to now I've had to kind of scrounge and/or borrow fixtures from other people and groups, but I can't do that forever and it makes for inconsistant lighting from show to show. What started as a little hobby is now actually starting to pay (a little). I know these aren't on the level of the latest generation of the SL's, S4's or maybe even the 360Q's with the newer reflector, but I can't afford most of those fixtures at this time. I've read Ship's comments on bulb selection for this style of ellipsoidal, so I'm fairly confident I can get some decent output from them. Thoughts or opinions? -Jim #### Footer ##### Senior Team Senior Team Premium Member They are better then the 360's and 360q's in my opinion. They are built well and make lamp replacements quick. For under a hundred, they aren't all that bad. I would go 80ish if you can, but you they are selling them WITH working lamps, safety cable, clamp, and color frame 100 isn't all that bad, though 80 is about right. I do know of a few places that are dumping 360q's with all that good stuff for 80. If they have a lot, and you are just taking 10 or so, go in and lamp them up and make sure that you get an even field with all of them. #### bdkdesigns ##### Active Member Fight Leukemia The only issue we have with ours is that they tend to "drop" their bench focus. I'm not sure if it's due to abuse earlier in their life or if they are just like that in general, but the bench never likes to lock down. Otherwise, we have no problems with ours. The FC's in them are significantly dimmer than the ETC's but are still fine. Saturated gel tends to last a LOT longer in them for us so thats where they get used the most. #### venuetech ##### Well-Known Member Departed Member Solid units that were the standard of their day (till the source four hit the market) If they have a lot of time with 1K lamps check the bases for arcing. and the rear lense as it would overheat and crack if you did not keep it clean. #### SteveB ##### Well-Known Member Greetings All! This is my first post since joining recently. I've been doing a lot of reading so far and I am now looking for a little advice. I have the opportunity to purchase several used Strand Leko's for a fairly decent price (under$100 each).

Then I'm assuming they are the 2200 series LekoLites. Black units, round yoke.

Work horse units, much better then a 360Q. Interchangeable lens tubes for the 6x9 and 6x12 lenses. Rated to 1000w, but more useful with a GLC 575w lamp.

Only practical issue is you lose the lamp alignment when you need to change the lamp. On the other hand, changing a lamp gives you some practice in "bench" focusing, sometimes while you're 20 ft. up a ladder. We use a C-wrench to snug down the lamp knob, which helps the unit retain the alignment.

Steve B.

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#### musictom

##### Member
As others have said, they do tend to lose bench focus. We just replaced a bunch of our Strands with S4s. The difference in output is pretty substantial. Plus, our Strands had much more of a yellow look to the light.

If you have opportunity, check the condition of the reflectors. Several of our reflectors have gone from a shiny silver to a very very dull grey. Needless to say, it doesn't help the output at all.

OTOH, as several have mentioned, for \$100, with clamp, safety cable and working lamp, it's pretty hard to go wrong.

Best of luck, and (from another noob) welcome to the board!! Now make sure and post a short bio on the new member board!

Tom

#### derekleffew

##### Resident Curmudgeon
Senior Team
Attempting to clear up some confusion...

The one on the left is the newer model, and was just before the SL-series. Also was the last fixture to bear the LEKO name. It was available in 15° (#2215), 20° (#2220), 30° (#2230), 40° (#2240), and 50° (#2250) models. The lens tubes are NOT interchangeable. [BTW, the pictures in the [URL='http://www.amazon.com/Photometrics-Handbook-Robert-C-Mumm/dp/0911747370/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1208221737&sr=8-1"]Photometrics Handbook[/URL] are all of the same fixture, most likely the #2230 model. As with the 360Q, each narrower fixture had a longer barrel.] Centering the lamp requires a Phillips head screwdriver. The lamp cap requires a quarter turn to remove/insert. The peak/cosine adjustment is maintained during relamping (but always a good idea to check alignment on ANY fixture after relamping). The shutters are too easily removable, to the point of falling out accidentally. The yoke says "Made in the U.K." I DO NOT feel these fixtures are superior to Altman 360Qs, other than the 1000W rating, which with today's lamps is a moot issue.

In my opinion, the older model, on the right, introduced in 1979 and continuing once the name "Century" was removed, (the same time as the shutter handles were changed to larger phenolic circular ones) is the superior fixture. This fixture came in 10x23 (#2123), 8x13 (#2113), 6x12 sgl. lens (#2112), 6x16 (#2216), 6x12 (#2212), 6x9 (#2209), and 4.5x6.5 (#2204). This fixture definitely needs re-alignment after every lamp change.

Both were designed for the FEL lamp, and work equally well with the modern replacements.

I just found a copy of LIGHTS! Vol.3 Issue3 (a Strand publication), that announces the end of the Lekolite® and the launch of the LEKO®, dated 1992. If anyone is interested, I'll scan it in and post the link. Production of the LEKO® (with a star in the "O") must have ceased around 1996, with the introduction of the SL-series to compete with the SourceFour™.

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#### herbiethemisfit

##### Member
Then I'm assuming they are the 2200 series LekoLites. Black units, round yoke.
They are 2200 series (2230 for 30deg and 2240 for 40deg), but they don't have the round yokes and I think they are more grey than black. See pic.

Thanks for the advice so far!

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#### ship

##### Senior Team Emeritus
Given bulb selection, they would be decent fixtures. A bit light on the tank of a fixture construction but optically it’s a good fixture. Here is what I found on that pre-SL series. Good overall like a strand but the attachment of the lens train to gel frame front is substandard in material and attachment. This given a spring between lenses means that if you don’t lock down the lens train adjustment knob at all times especially during transport or adjustment and hanging, that lens train will slam home to the front with gravity and that’s enough to cause the gel frame assembly to pop off the lens train tube. This than by way of spring ejects it and the first if not both lenses out of the barrel.

Very dangerous that concept of lenses and materials popping out should that lens train slam into wide focus. But that’s only during install or transport and not during a show the danger. Also, while difficult, such an ejected lens can be repaired for a fixture that’s not shot. Tricky but can be done.

Decent enough fixture, kind of like a light weight 360Q but no doubt optically better. I was never impressed overall with the S-4 fixture given sufficient lamps for older/other fixtures. This Strand fixture is not great, it’s a stable fixture however that will be just fine. Its also lighter in weight. Good buy especially for the more close in focuses.

#### jmsinick

##### Member
It was available in 15° (#2215), 20° (#2220), 30° (#2230), 40° (#2240), and 50° (#2250) models.
They were also available as 5° and 10° degree models and at least a 25-50° zoom model.​
I have spent the past five years sharing roughly 350 of the newer model Strand Leko series between three performance spaces. One of the largest issues that I had with these lights were the shutters becoming loose and falling out. Also, the 5° and 10° barrels tracks are made of a cheap plastic and tend to fall out of place, thus making it very difficult to run the barrel.​
Yes, the connection between the gel holder and the barrel is a little flimsy. The only time that I ever had one fail was when it was whacked pretty hard with a batten. From time to time the lenses do get jostled out of alignment. Luckily it is only three screws and the reseting of a large spring to put them back into alignment. Also, I have had a couple of lenses crack in my 40° and 50° models and most of my Strand Leko 25-50° zooms (but that is due mostly to lamp issues).​
I do like the extra wide accessory slot, but it only allows for one accessory at a time, such as an iris or a pattern holder. Also, the accessory slot does not play nice with gobo rotators because they fit very loose in the slot. But, if you can find the Strand gobo holders, they are made of two pieces and allow you to rotate the pattern with an external handle without rotating the fixture.​
Given their quirks, the 20° through 50° models are still a relatively solid fixture. Go for it.​

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#### herbiethemisfit

##### Member
Thanks all again for the replies. I will inspect the lights as much as I can before taking delivery - which is hopefully this week!

One more question. Does anyone have a manual in .pdf format for these? I've googled my brains out but have only found a datasheet. Even tried contacting Strand via email with no response.

On a side note - I tried the 'Lighting Manuals' section on the top of the page here but that leads nowhere...

#### RiffRaff54

##### Member
I've worked with both the 2200 series and the other series that say Century as well as 360's. The Century's are by far my favorite out of the three, they shutter well and I have to try to get one of the shutters come loose and they focus well. The 360's are OK in my opinion. The 2200 that my theatre have and the ones that my college has I'd rather throw out and free up some space. I feel they get hot way to quickly and the shutters don't move freely and come out way to often. I recently had to take one out of the house boom box to work on it so the shutter would go back in.

Personally I'd like to have nothing but Shakespear's and the Cuntury's for my FOH inventory.

#### FMEng

##### Well-Known Member
Fight Leukemia
I have a bunch of these. One thing to look for when you inspect them:

Sometimes the reflectors in these discolor or oxidize. Take a flashlight and check them carefully, or light the instrument to see that the light output is normal, and not unusually dim or yellow.

Repair parts are not available from Strand. I wish I had a source for parts because I have several in need of reflectors.

#### brozeph20

##### Member
we have some Leko (strand brand) lights that are burnt out
I know this sounds dumb but...
How do I take the lamp access off to get at the bulb to replace it? I've done it for S4, pars, and fresnels but have yet to replace a leko lamp.
Thanks

#### TheDonkey

##### Active Member
Not sure about Strand Leko's, but on ouir Altmans, there's a Brass thumb screw at the back of teh light, you undo that and the bulb/power assembly comes out, then just pull it out and put in a new one.

#### DCATTechie

##### Active Member
Remember, there are no dumb questions, only dumb answers.

Are they the new-ish Strand SL Coolbeams or are they the original Lekolite'?

#### Footer

##### Senior Team
Senior Team
On the base cap, there are two knobs you can get at. One on the rear, that looks like a joystick, and another on the top, that is just a black thumbscrew. unscrew that black thumbscrew until you can see threads. The entire basecap assembly should slide out. When you replace the lamp, put it back in, tighten the thumbscrew down, and turn the light on. After it is on, loosen the thumbscrew and slide the entire assembly in or out to get the light coming out to be its brightest. This is known as bench focusing, do a search for a more indepth look at it.

#### brozeph20

##### Member
there is only one thumb screw on the bottom and then a screw (needing a screwdriver) on the back - I don't think that this screw is supposed to come out. Our light is a leko (30) it isn't a lekolite and it isn't an SL Coolbeam... i don't know the actual name for it though but it has a handle on the back attached to the lamp fixture part.
I know that this is confusing but I've tried many different ways - none of which worked.

##### Member
If I'm not mistaken, we have plenty of these at my local theatre:

Twist the back handle counter clockwise until it pops about 30 degrees from where it started, and then pull it straight out, replace the lamp, slide the casing end back in (at the angle that you could pull it out from) and twist it clockwise back into place.

#### DCATTechie

##### Active Member
Are you sure these are Strand brand? I'm trying to find you the manual but I can seem the find the fixture you are talking about?

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