Conventional Fixtures HELP Strand LEKO 2200 Series Missing Parts

Here is a picture of one of the lekos if this helps
Spader - my director said something about this but even he went to try it and it didn't seem to work... I will try it again and see if we weren't trying hard enough
Thanks
 
That is the exact fixture that I am talking about. It's not easy to do, but you do twist that handle...I ended up sitting next to the fixture puzzled the first time that I tried to replace the lamp. Just don't get worried when it makes a strange noise...the casing is in there tightly.
 
Spader is absolutely correct in how to free the lamp cap. Don't feel bad, brozeph20, I had the exact same question upon my first encounter with this fixture. (I had to call and ask my Strand rep.) Note the the center Philips head screw is for centering the lamp in the reflector. The thumb screw on the bottom is for setting the peak-cosine of the lamp, and in theory, does not need to be moved during relamping (unlike the older black Lekolite series.) Both shown below.
 

Attachments

  • Lekos_side.jpg
    Lekos_side.jpg
    119.4 KB · Views: 758
Back in high school I was helping out a middle school and came across one of their Colortran 5/50's still clamped to their balcony rail with the lens tube and both lenses removed and laying on the floor. I asked what had happened to it and the teacher said the janitor was trying to figure out how to change the lamp.
 
Fortunately, my bulb changing experience was fairly problem-free.

This year I'm in m shool's Stagecraft class which is totally AWESOME, Grad credits for just hanging out in the theater, listening to music and changing bulbs :) (Sometimes we paint, do other stuff, etc).
But yeah, one of our second FOH bulbs went out and it's pretty much the most used light, so it had to be fixed ASAP. Teacher shpowed everyone hwo to use the big, huge, unsafe ladder, pull the lguht down, change teh bulb, etcetc.

Twas fun.
 
You didn't learn the most fundamental thing in that class. They're lamps, not bulbs. ;-)
 
You didn't learn the most fundamental thing in that class. They're lamps, not bulbs. ;-)

Bah, to me, a lamp is something you put on the floor in your house for light, a bulb is something you put IN a lamp that makes the actual light.

It may be more proper, but I grew up with bulb so it makes more sense.
 
Yes, in homeowner terms a lamp is a self-contained lighting fixture and a bulb is what goes in it, but this is theatre. A place where even the term "spot light" has to be used with caution.

To each his own I guess. I just hope you don't call it a "bulb" in the event that you happen to be working with a professional crew.
 
Last edited:
Bah, to me, a lamp is something you put on the floor in your house for light, a bulb is something you put IN a lamp that makes the actual light.

It may be more proper, but I grew up with bulb so it makes more sense.

Yes, in homeowner terms a lamp is a self-contained lighting fixture and a bulb is what goes in it, but this is theatre. A place where even the term "spot light" has to be used with caution.

To each his own I guess. I just hope you don't call it a "bulb" in the event that you happen to be working with a professional crew.

I'm going to reiterate Les' point here. If you intend to work professionally in theatre, learn the proper terminology. When those of us who have been in this business for a while correct you, we're trying to help you become a better tech. Obstinately refusing to use the proper terminology because a non-theatrical term "makes more sense", will mark you as an amateur, and will impact your ability to get work as you move forward in your career.

Just something to think about.;)

If you do not intend to pursue theatre as a career, then by all means, continue using the wrong terms.:wall:
 
I'm going to reiterate Les' point here. If you intend to work professionally in theatre, learn the proper terminology. When those of us who have been in this business for a while correct you, we're trying to help you become a better tech. Obstinately refusing to use the proper terminology because a non-theatrical term "makes more sense", will mark you as an amateur, and will impact your ability to get work as you move forward in your career.

Just something to think about.;)

If you do not intend to pursue theatre as a career, then by all means, continue using the wrong terms.:wall:

Yeah, was wondering how long till someone said this,

I have 2 lamps and 3 lenses to change on Monday :rolleyes:

But yeah, eventually I gotta get over the habit of calling it wrong.
 
Hi, I'm new to ControlBooth. I've recently taken a position as the Technical Director for the High Valley Arts Foundation in Midway, Utah. We currently don't have a home theater so we use several venues in the community.

We are producing "The Sound of Music" at the Zermatt resort which is an exclusive 5star Swiss theme resort in the area. They a hillside in back where we will put on the show. We are building the stage and actually bringing power to the site. I hope we will have 2x 240v 60amp circuits. With 120amps I hope we will be able to effectively light the venue.

I have a problem I'm trying to solve. The foundation has a bunch of old LEKO 40, 2240 fixtures. I'm trying to remove the lamp housing to check the lamp but am not able to pull the lamp holder out. It appears as though the set screw that holds the lamp holder tight is hitting the outer ring that the holder slides in... anyone have an idea of how to get around this? Thanks.
 
Welcome to CB! Derek gave you some great advice so far. I am going to move your thread to the Lighting Forum so it is in the proper place. Not all members regularly read the New Member Board.

Glad to have you here. Enjoy CB!

~Dave
 
Here is another welcome to CB. i don't really have much insight to offer you on this one, but as a fellow Utahn, I figured I would say hi.
 
What a PAIN!!! Following the link above I tried twisting the housing counter-clockwise...I used much force and finally it popped and the housing came out...

Now getting it back in. I haven't figured this out yet. There is a thumb screw that holds the housing tight. it screws in to a little threaded shim like aluminum key that is loose in a slot. When the housing comes out, the al key thing falls out. So, to put the housing back in, all I can figure is to place the al key in its slot and try to force it back in...but the key has a ridge around the threaded hole and that ridge gets caught on the outer shell ring...arggg!!!

I'm thinking I could grind the ridge off of the key...
When the lamp housing is in the outer shell ring, without the ridge, the housing could slide around the outer shell, however if I have the thumb screw tight, I can't see why there would be a problem?

I've been searching the Strand Lighting - A Philips Group Brand web site but it doesn't have any documentation on the 2220, 2230, 2240 LEKP's.

Does anyone have, or know where I can find documentation on the Strand Leko 2220, 2230, and 2240 fixtures?

Thanks.
 
It seems as though the easiest way to re-lamp these is to open the can, there are 3 small screws holding the reflector and top hat...removing 2 of these screws and loosing the other will allow the removal of the top hat and reflector making the lamp easily accessible. This is such a pain to do and it may require taking the fixture off of the pipe or mount.

We also have some Altman fixtures which are much more easy to re-lamp.
 
taneglaus, replacing the lamp by removing the reflector should not be necessary. No offense intended, but you're doing something wrong.:(

...I'm thinking I could grind the ridge off of the key...
Do not take a grinder to any parts of this fixture. The ridge is there to keep the "key" in the slot.

Here's another thread: http://www.controlbooth.com/forums/lighting/7492-strand-lekos.html.

See attached pictures.
Picture 1 shows the lamp cap in its normal, locked position.
Picture 2 shows the cap rotated 45° CCW, ready to be removed, WITH THE UNIT UNPLUGGED, of course. A good deal of force is required, and it's scary the first time.
Picture 3 shows the outside, looking at the tri-wing knob.
Picture 4 shows the aluminum "key" sitting on top of the teflonized plastic "washer" to aid in sliding.

It is not necessary or desirable to ever remove the tri-wing knob from the aluminum key. Slightly loosening the knob allows the lamp to move in and out of the reflector (peak-cosine adjustment), before it is tightened again. For flattest field, the lamp cap usually sits proud of its surrounding cylinder approx. 1/8". A #2 Phillips Head screwdriver, inserted in the hole in the center of the lamp cap handle, allows for up/down/L/R centering of the lamp.

I don't have cut sheets, and can't seem to lay my hands on my copy of Lights! at the moment. As replacement parts for this line are virtually non-existent, your only alternative is to cannibalize your existing stock, and replace the whole lot as soon as practical. I'd take the Altman 360Q over this line of fixtures any day. Be careful, as the shutters have a tendency to fall out.

Hope this helps.
 

Attachments

  • Leko1.JPG
    Leko1.JPG
    20.8 KB · Views: 246
  • Leko2.JPG
    Leko2.JPG
    21.5 KB · Views: 278
  • Leko3.JPG
    Leko3.JPG
    45.9 KB · Views: 490
  • Leko4.JPG
    Leko4.JPG
    34 KB · Views: 519
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread

Back