Sorry, yes also a band saw, scroll saw, jigsaw,
Sawzall etc. I actually made up a chart of which Bosch jigsaw blades for each type and
thickness of material in use. Also a chart based on the "Backstage Handbook" in pre-calculating what speed to drill at. Have a forstner
bit char in the works, hole saw chart
etc. Completely useful when you get into projects.
Point is correct blade, speed and with lubricant when doing thicker material or a lot of it.
Was cutting some 1.1/4x2"
UHMW plastic last night on the chop saw.
UHMW is really soft and would shatter plastic more brittle with a fine tooth blade, but melt if too fine. Installed the factory 32 tooth 12" factory blade - even if thin kurf, and it cut faster and cleaner than the 92 tooth particle board (plastic) cutting blade that used to bog down a little. Bought a 86 tooth blade but, think happy medium would be wider kurf but more like 40 or 60 tooth normal saw blade. A lot of cuts on the factory blade in plastic will wear and lack of surface area will heat the factory blade. I have not attempted to wax this blade though. Have waxed table saw and worm drive Skill saw (another cutting tool) blades though with good results.
Later today in drilling with plastic drilling bits and forstner bits on the drill press, I did use a lot of normal cutting oil but had to go a lot of experience based guessing of speed. Worked great on the
UHMW soft plastic. Soft/hard and medium plastic another factor.
Crud!! just found out a seperate specific tour broke another
LED stick on purpose. (Six sided high output
RGB tape inside a frosted polycarbonate tube.) I only make them in
build lots as it's $150.00 in
MEK each time I dip the outer tubing in a rain gutter. Another lot of dipping into
MEK the outer bars and making more
LED cores which are not easy and "obsolete." Band hired an expert to figure out problems with ... interference Rf signal onto their amp's... starting over in design anyway next month. Literally in going t hru the steps for each proprosed design change for why I didn't already do it in the last design. Well over $1.5K per bar to make. More than that if the upgrade to digital goes
thru - each bar and the same each time they break them. One would think the band would at least stop breaking them on purpose in already spending the money to upgrade to a bar more expensive yet to replace. But at least if the upgrade goes
thru I can do the upgrade to the outer bars hopefully in making them a little stronger. Hmm,
LED punching bag bar... short notice, low budget. Month to month problems since