How many gels do you cut for a "basic" high school theatre set up?

The high school theatre I'm working in, is brand new. Which is great!
However, no gels have been cut (since it's been open a year) and I only have 1 box of Apollo basic/standard gels. Meaning, only 2 sheets per standard color.
For a theatre with 250 lights, where do I begin with gels? How do I know which colors I should put where since there are a handful of different sizes? :confused:
 
If you give a bit more information about what your lights are doing you may get more useful replies.

If you have a standard rig that is used in most configurations then someone may have set it up with a basic colour 'palette'.
If it is really brand new and no lights are rigged at all then it's an open playfield !

A standard rig would give you lights hung in places to give you commonly used configurations. i.e.General light overhead , facelight , and lights from behind for highlights. The specific colouring, and corresponding Gel colours is then 'user preference' but commonly open white, a warm colour ( ambers/pinks) and cool colours ( blues) are used.
The number of gels cut would then be based on how many of each colour and size are in your standard rig,how often they burn out, and how often you can actually get to them to replace them.
 
I think your cart is in danger of getting in front of your horse. Before you start cutting gels, you need some sort of lighting design. Do some searching here on CB, and some googling (or even pick up a lighting text book) to gain some familiarity with the basics of lighting design, particularly the McCandless method.

I assume your lights are all hung already. It's probably a good starting point. On a very basic level, you want to think of the lights in systems. Each system of lights covers the whole stage evenly, at the same angle. You may have one, two, three or more systems of front light from somewhat different angles (often 45 deg to the right and 45 deg to the left). You may have one or more systems of back light, top light, side light. Each system is the same color. You can create different looks on stage by manipulating the intensity of the different systems for various blends.

The flip side of systems is areas. Divide your stage into areas approx 6 - 8 feet square. (5 areas across and 3 deep or whatever. Usually best to have an odd number so one is center.) Ideally, one light from each system hits each area. So if you have 15 areas and 5 systems, you have 75 lights. Each area can be made to look like any other, or made to look different. On top of that, you'll add lights for scenery, "specials," (light for a special purpose/moment) and all kinds or stuff.

In terms of color, most typically front light will be fairly pale, often lavender, amber, and/or cool. Get more saturated (richer color) with side lights, and more still with back lights.

This is very basic starter information. Learn the rules, then start breaking them.

You may find that having two sheets of every color is not totally useful. It's much better if you can start with a design and buy the colors you need than to design based on the colors you have. But sometimes that happens.

I'd start with drawing some kind of light plot, even if just a sketch. Draw the stage (top view) and draw each light where it is and note the type. Draw the areas. Puzzle out which lights should be in which systems for which areas and note that. Note which dimmers the lights are plugged into. Write down the colors. Now you'll know what to cut. If you really want to have fun, spend $25 on a scale rule, square, and lighting instrument template (this last from a theatrical supply house).

Have fun, I'm excited for you! Wish I had 250 lights in most of my theatres.
 
The most important thing to remember is to get a china marker/grease pencil and label EVERY piece of color you cut with the number that is on the sheet!

As far as what you need, everyone else has given pretty good advice.


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china marker/grease pencil and label EVERY piece of color you cut with the number that is on the sheet!

Be sure it is WHITE (china) as the black will burn through. you can write large in the center. For Rosco 08 I put R08. Your local supply house usually will give you some with a Gel order if you ask. Rosco has some really nice ones.

I agree that making a plan for a standard rep, then decide how you want to add color. Some will cross light with 3, 4 or 5 point systems, then run warm and cool from opposite corners. Others will cross light white and add color straight on, warm and cool. Another style is to use multiple fixtures and dim them to warm the color, or single fixture at full will cool the color.

Color is relative to what the end results that are desired. I just had a dinner in a multipurpose room, They had LED lights over the tables with a pleasant red/blue mix. The red table cloth and blue plates really looked great. However, My green salad looked brown under the light, not very appealing.

Happy planning.
 
Hi charmcityfan! You've received some good advice here. We're right in your back yard. If you want to PM me with your address, I'll mail a free literature pack with some helpful information ... and a white china marker too. :) Best wishes on your new space!
 
Be sure it is WHITE (china) as the black will burn through. you can write large in the center. For Rosco 08 I put R08. Your local supply house usually will give you some with a Gel order if you ask. Rosco has some really nice ones.

Ack! I know this is a "heated" topic, but you shouldn't actually label your gels across the center. along an edge or in the corner where the writing wont be directly in the beam is best. While you should use white, it doesn't matter what color pencil you use, any writing on the gel will absorb heat and thusly burn, fade, or deform faster. That and the fact that if your lights are ever in view of the audience, it is kind of ugly to be able to see all the gel numbers.
 

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