is there a way to clean/fix faders/bump buttons?

ren

Member
Hello, I am using a NSI MC 7532 lighting controller. Most of the faders do not fade properly, and basically go to 100% before 1/4 intensity it reached on the fader. Also the bump buttons lose connection and black out on me while depressing them. The club is of coarse to broke to get me a new one and I am at my wits end with putting a show on with it. I've heard you can't clean faders on a lighting console in the same way you clean a audio console but I don't know how true that is. It would really make my day if I knew there was a way to bring back a little more life out of this antique lol.

Also on a side note I am running multiplex but I am trying to get things changed to DMX. I was told that the DMX signal may make fades worse with less than perfect faders. Any thoughts? Thanks for any help anyone can give me :)
 
Well it sounds like internal board issues rather than being dirty. Your best bet is to contact a local service center and ask them about it if not send it in for "fix". As far as DMX compared to the analog, Well DMX can be less reliable for some things but as far as lighting goes DMX is much more reliable because its data and not direct signal. The DMX is sent to a controller which is what generally causes problems if not programmed correctly (user error).


So on that note, I would suggest the upgrade to DMX and that the board needs to be sent in since normal dirt wouldn't cause that kind of problem.
 
Actually, Multiplex is a digital signal, common to NSI consoles.

I actually believe things are dirty and/or worn out. Bar and club environments can do that sort of thing. It's probably not something you will get perfect results with if you attempt cleaning them yourself, but you could try. You'd have to open the board up and blow it out with canned air, and maybe apply some fader lube.

That may get the results, it may not. It's likely that you'll just need a bunch of new faders and buttons, which should be available through NSI. If you're lucky, you could find identical parts online at a place like Mouser, and it might be cheaper. Honestly though, the parts are the cheap part. The costly portion of the repair would be having someone remove the old components and solder in the new ones.
 
I was told that the DMX signal may make fades worse with less than perfect faders. Any thoughts?

DMX has more than enough resolution in possible channel values and (usually) a more than high enough refresh rate to communicate a smooth fade for any dimmer. That said, if you have a crummy controller, it might not operate at such a high refresh rate, or it might have other issues that prevent it from actually computing a smooth fade, but even then the problems would have to be absolutely egregious to cause noticeable issues with incandescent lamps, because the limiting factor in fading an incandescent source is actually the time it takes for the filament to heat and cool--not the control protocol.

EDIT: And of course your dimmers/fixtures play a role in this, too. If you have a cheap moving fixture on a long enough throw, you might start to see discrete steps in its motion, but again this has nothing to do with the communication protocol.
 
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Actually, Multiplex is a digital signal, common to NSI consoles. ...
Did you mean to type Microplex? I'm pretty sure Analog Multiplex (aka AMX192) is not digital. See also Pathway Connectivity Inc. - Lighting Control Protocols - Part 2.

ren, you've got nothing to lose, except the cost of a can of DeoxIt, (about $11). Follow all manufacturer's instruction for use.

... Also on a side note I am running multiplex but I am trying to get things changed to DMX. I was told that the DMX signal may make fades worse with less than perfect faders. ...
I know of no evidence, anecdotal or otherwise, to justify this statement. What do you mean by "get things changed to DMX"? Changing the console, the dimmers, or both?
 
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If the deoxit does not work for you, Contact Leviton/NSI. They overhauled my 7524 (just slightly smaller than your board - new pots, new buttons/handles where missing, new software, etc...) for 375 plus shipping (last year) . It's been running like a champ since.
 
from the symptoms you describe for the faders I suspect deoxit will not fix the problem. Deoxit is a great product and works for a number of problems and will help on faders if the fader is just a little stiff. However when a fader is suddenly changing level as yo describe it is usually becuase the conductive layer (carbon material) on the track inside the pot has gaps worn through it. this can only be fixed by replacing the potentiometer. not a hard repair but you need to know where to buy a replacement, how to solder and how to take appart the console and put it back together again. another symptom of a knackered pot is often seen on the VDU - when you slide the fader to zero you will notice the display value for the channel does not follow the slider.

FYI pots are typically in the $10 range to buy in quantities of one or two over the counter and are usually 5k or 10 k ohm linear type however there are PCB mount and non-PCB ount versions and different track lengths.

Bump switches will respond to deoxit when the contacts are dirty but if the contacts are worn you need a new switch.

Anyone who repairs consoles keeps old consoles as a source of components for harvesting to repair older consoles and as a source of hard to find components for newer consoles - I still have some switches for the lighting methods analogue boards. Switches and faders are normally generic items hiding behind custom knobs there are just so many different ones it can be hard to know where to look to find a supplier. So find out who the local console repair people are near you and give them a call.
good luck
 

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