"Kicking" Loft Blocks?

Chris Chapman

Active Member
We had some rigging change outs this year and some of my linesets may need to be tweaked a bit. the dirty anwer has been to "kick" lift blocks upstage/downstage for a correction. I have never actually done this in all my time in Theatre, and am wondering how someone actually does this. IS it as simple as loosening the bolts of the lift block on the grid and literally kicking it to the new location? How far of a fleet angle is safe to introduce off of the head block to a lift block?
 
re: "Kicking" Loft Blocks?

First, its a LOFT block, not a lift block.

This is commonly called "kicking sheaves". It is something that if you have to ask how to do it, you really should not be doing it. Depending on how your blocks are hung it can be really dangerous to do this. Without seeing your space and how your blocks are attached to the steel it is nearly impossible to say if this is safe or not. Give a call to someone who has done this before and have them show you how to do this.

Also, when you start doing this you kind of open up a pandora's box. In my venue we have never had to kick sheaves and I don't think they have ever moved from the day they were installed. In one of my summer stocks homes it was very routine to kick stuff around. Because of that no pipe flew perfectly straight. Everything was all kinds of out of whack. We spent at least a few hours every load in hitting sheaves to get stuff to fly right. After I left there they did a full re-rig of the place and squared all of the blocks up and I think the practice has stopped there.

I would have a rigging company come and square your blocks up. After that, don't touch them.
 
re: "Kicking" Loft Blocks?

Thanks Kyle. Loft Block is right. My caffeine for the morning hadn't kicked in yet. My local riggers are who I'd use for this for exactly the reasons you list. I want to know more about what is involved. Some of clearances between linesets are tight enough as is, and mucking up lift lines with wrong angles, and the batons no longer being parallel to plaster line is NOT a place I want to end up in.
 
re: "Kicking" Loft Blocks?

It sounds like your loft blocks are overhung (attached to the grid ribbons) instead of underhung (attached to overhead beams). If so, kicking the sheaves is the only way to move your lift lines up/downstage. With underhung lift blocks, it is possible to temporarily divert the lift lines up/downstage with a diverter or snatch block.

On either case, it's best to have an experienced rigger come in and supervise the work. They will be able to judge what amount of adjustment is safe and prudent.

If these are permanent changes to the hang, make sure to document changes and update any paperwork.

- Todd
Sent from a mobile device.
 
re: "Kicking" Loft Blocks?

I spent years kicking blocks in a hemp house (the student-run university theatre) but have never had to do it in a counterweight house. In the hemp house we used to shift battens around all the time because we only had about eight (plus four winched lighting bars) and they were never where you wanted them. The real joy was that the roof was only about four feet above the grid (and the grid was not full height - 6.5 metres from stage to gallery, then 5 metres from gallery to grid), so you were bent over, and then to move the headblocks you had to lever up the sprinkler pipe to get out and replace the blocks. That theatre was demolished after the earthquakes and despite my formative years in theatre being spent in there, I'm not sorry that it's gone, it was an awful place to work. Having said that, it did teach me a lot about how to make things work with no budget and an unhelpful space, and makes me appreciate a counterweight rig and FOH catwalks a lot more!
 
re: "Kicking" Loft Blocks?

Thanks Kyle. Loft Block is right. My caffeine for the morning hadn't kicked in yet. My local riggers are who I'd use for this for exactly the reasons you list. I want to know more about what is involved. Some of clearances between linesets are tight enough as is, and mucking up lift lines with wrong angles, and the batons no longer being parallel to plaster line is NOT a place I want to end up in.

Long and short of it, idealy you line up your headblock the the sheaves and go from there. You can run up to a 5 degree fleet angle and get away with it. For a permant install you want to have zero fleet angle to ensure bearings don't get destroyed. If you get your first block square you can line up the rest of the blocks to that first set. It does work but in the world of lasers we now live in there is no need for that. Many overhung blocks are only secured with a clip and a clamp so moving them is rather easy. Others are not. So, can't really give you any direct answer there. I'm sure one of our guys who have a lot more installation experience will be along to help. If your having clearance issues with just soft goods you really need to have your system looked and and knocked back into square... then never touch it again (and hide the mallets!).
 
A couple years ago this same topic came up on the TD group section. What follows is, in part, one of my posts on the subject.

Kicking sheaves has been practiced as long as there has been stage rigging with a "grid", although it is slowly but surely dying out. As Derek said, there are two different rigging methods being discussed here. First the practice of "kicking" sheaves and second the use of mule blocks to redirect lift line directions to allow angled and "spot line" style rigging with a counterweight line set. This discussion seems to be centered around the questions of "What", "Why" and "Is it a good Idea". To properly discuss these topics we must first define and describe the practices, the "What" and "Why".

Both methods are a direct evolution of stage rigging from rope and pulley, to "Hemp Rigging" to line set Counterweight rigging. From the time of the Greeks and their "Deus Ex Machina", when ever there was a need for an object to be raised or lowered, a pulley was mounted where needed, a rope was strung and "Voila!" the thing raised or lowered. What today we refer to as Hemp Rigging was not a lot different at first. A number of ropes were rigged through at first a group of pulleys mounted close together and later what was called a tandem head block. At first there were no set locations for the loft blocks, they were placed on a show by show basis "as needed". As all the sheaves were individual units, and could be adjusted for angle and as fleet angle with rope rigging is not as critical or restrictive as with wire rope, the loft blocks could be placed almost anywhere. With the advent of the "Wing and Drop" style sets in the 16th century, loft blocks began to be arranged in parallel rows for each group. However at this time there were no battens as we know them today. Battens were wood boards permanently attached to a drop. Individual lift lines had a small sand bag attached when not in use and if a line was not needed for any reason, that line was simply tied off and not used. With the development of the box set in the 29th century, the parallel rows of blocks were not as useful, as many side walls were hung at angles. During the 19th century Ballet and Opera tended to stay with the wing and drop style of set with "straight" dramas or comedy's tending toward box sets, especially toward the end of the century. Box sets relied more on the spot line style with blocks positioned as needed and the only parallel rows of blocks were for the gas pipes which would eventually evolve into our current pipe battens.

When counterweight rigging was introduced in the last quarter of the 19th century, it was the first time a group of lift lines was "permanently" attached to a single batten and a single weight device. Stage technicians, designers et. al. were used to the flexibility of the hemp system and simply moved the loft blocks if it became necessary. Especially at first, line sets might be spaced at larger distances than is common today in large facilities. Unlike today's common spacing of 6" or 8", it was not unusual to have several line sets on 6" to 10" centers at the positions that often had scenic units and drops and to have two or three foot gaps to the next group. The gas and gas/electric lighting units were large and bulky and it was not unusual to move them a foot or so up or down stage to allow scenic units to clear. This was easy, especially at first, as many grids were wood and the loft blocks were only clamped or lightly bolted down. It is reported, though I can find no empirical evidence to back it up, that some blocks were held in place with large el brackets or hooks and relied on resultant force to keep them in place. Thus moving them required no tools, simply kick them as needed, and the term was coined.

As counterweight sets replaced hemp style rigging, the practice actually grew. Stage technicians were simply used to designing pick points where the scenery needed them and then adjusting as needed. As steel grids became more common and loft block attachment became more secure, the practice became a bit more labor intensive but still common, and in fact, it is still practiced in many houses today.

All the major rigging manufacturers today discourage the practice because they have no control over who does it and what their rigging knowledge and skill are. Kicking the sheaves voids the installation/labor portion of any warranty. As a result manufacturers and installers often require the blocks to be welded in place, especially in under hung situations. Under hung head blocks are almost always required to be welded after the bolt clips and final alinement adjustment is complete.

The second method of locating lift line drop points involves mule blocks to redirect the lines to the desired location. This is not only common, but the standard method for rigging circular cycloramas, orchestra shell rigging and other "non-standard" rigging uses. It is usually employed in permanent installation situations but occasionally for one-off shows that have special rigging needs. Many big budget shows with special or unusual rigging needs simply tour with their own rigging grid ( Jane Eyre or Phantom) which contains winches and chain motors where needed and then is flown from the building structure below the house rigging. When using the mule block method for temporary rigging, the lift lines change distance from the head block to the drop point, usually increasing the effective distance from the head block. This is usually adjusted for by adding additional trim chain in various lengths, as needed to equal out the lengths of the various lift lines. As a result this method is only used when there is sufficient grid height to allow the units to clear sight lines with the extra chain or where the unit is never flown above playing height. If there are unused lift lines, they are simply sand bagged to provide tension or coiled and the coil provides sufficient weight and tension to keep the line taut. I do not guarantee that is what is done in the OP's situation, but I would be interested in hearing their actual technique.

Now! Is Kicking Sheaves a good thing, a bad thing or somewhere in between? In and of itself, there is absolutely nothing wrong with "kicking Sheaves". HOWEVER ..... there are a large number of reasons why it can be a bad thing. It should never be allowed by anyone except the house staff as they are ultimately responsible for the safety, maintenance and general condition of the space. In addition, guests who kick blocks rarely replace them and they often don't tell the house staff that it has been done. Today the practice is most common in large venues with permanent rigging staff who know what they are doing and how to do it.

The things that must be observed are simple and should be obvious to any rigger, but are often overlooked by touring crews or inexperienced staff.
1. If the changed position is to be parallel to the plaster line, the short line determines the maximum distance the line set can be moved. The fleet angle is greater the closer it is to the head block.
2. Loft blocks should be angled if possible to reduce fleet angle to the minimum.
3. All bolts and clips must be fastened down to the manufacturer's recommended torque settings.
4. If the line set is never moved for the run of the show after being flown to it's trim height, fleet angles can be exceeded, but only by VERY experienced riggers with total knowledge of the loading, the angles, the properties of the specific sheaves, the off axis loading capabilities of the mounting clips, the out of axis loads imposed by the fleet angle on the sheave housing and mounting brackets and any dynamic loads that might be imposed.
5. All changes MUST be restored to the system original specs and positions with proper alignment and fastening settings when the run is over.
6. After restoring to original condition, each and EVERY component of the entire line set MUST be inspected for any changes in condition, damage or problems, and corrections made where necessary.
7. All changes, adjustments and restoration must be listed in the rigging maintenance log, dated and signed by the rigger in charge.

Note to all readers: Does your facility keep an up-to-date rigging maintenance log? Why not???

I stated earlier that the practice was slowly but surely dying out. That is because of the growth of automated rigging and the requirement of manufacturers to weld the blocks in place. Automated rigging such as package hoists do not lend themselves well to block kicking and several types, such as line shaft and Prodigy make the practice impossible.

I'm sure I've skipped parts of the equation that others will point out, if anyone has any questions, ask!
 

No, but they are related. This summer my local rigging company is going to install a cover on the lattice, when we rehung our rags, our 3/4 upstage traveler moved a lineset upstage, and we gained a midstage traveler. The return sheave on both of them are contacting open linesets upstage, so two open batons need to nudge upstage a couple of inches.

(Related in that new problems reared their heads on the same project/install.)
 
No, but they are related. This summer my local rigging company is going to install a cover on the lattice, when we rehung our rags, our 3/4 upstage traveler moved a lineset upstage, and we gained a midstage traveler. The return sheave on both of them are contacting open linesets upstage, so two open batons need to nudge upstage a couple of inches.

(Related in that new problems reared their heads on the same project/install.)

H&H makes a diagonal dead end pulley (what I think you mean by return sheave) that is much narrower in plan. Might be easier and less likely to cause a problem than moving sets.
 
I can't help but make a few comments on Michale's excellent treatise and some of the other comments.

Minor technical point, I struggle with seemingly limiting the use of the term "counterweight" to perhaps "guided arbors with ferrous weights" or some narrow group when rope and sand bags are in fact counterweight, as recognized in the PLASA rigging standard.

Not sure if it was Michael or someone else but usually rigging is either under hung or upright, and I rarely here any style referred to as overhung (just a few stagehands once in a while).

As far as spacing, not uncommon in the wing and drop era for 1" thick wood battens to bump each other. Some opera houses have sets on 4" centers. We learn from John Freeman's "On Safeguarding of Life in Theatres" - and excellent and relevant still today book available for FREE on Google books - that the Iroquois had at the time of the fire more than 10,000 square yards of canvas, 3,000 square, yards of gauze, and 8,000 board feet of dry white pine lumber, with much of this hung on over 11 miles of 5/8" manila rope treated with kerosene to preserve it in the fly loft - some 167 sets in around 50' of stage depth - close to 3 1/2" centers. I believe the Chicago Lyric has sets on 4" centers - and the sheaves are all on a common shaft hung under the loft block beams - which makes kicking more like sliding I suppose - but the intent is that multiple sets are hung and there is a triple height so you can "store" 30' drops just under the grid and completely above the drops for that night's show. (Oh yeah - double grid - so spot lines and such are from below the regular line sets and if I recall, all 3-line sets all bridled - so lost of height.

The under hung system with a grid presents a great opportunity for adjusting a set a few sets but using a small diameter divert block that attaches to the grid well - basically a sheave on an axle that clips to the well channels. in 7-8' 1.5 degrees gives you a little over 2" and I've always thought 1.5 was too restrictive and that 2.5 to 3 degrees is fine - especially for a run of a show. Somebody can look it up but I suspect that the difference between 1.5 and 3 degrees is like the difference of a wire rope lasting 20 years instead of 50, but enough people in this country seem to feel 1.5 is the limit. I think European standards are more like 2.5 or 3.
 
I agree with Bill's "Minor technical point,..." 100%, 'though it may be a bit pendantic. Both systems using iron or metal (not always ferrous) weights and those using bags of finely crushed silica (sand) are indeed "Counter Weight Systems". A counterweight, adjective, is any weight used to balance a load. A counter weight, noun, is a metal weight designed to fit on an appropriate weight arbor, and may be round, rectangular, cylindrical to suit. Sash weights and curtain weights, although metal counter weights, are free hung and do not fit a weight arbor, thus, by my definition, are counterweights adjective but not counter weights noun.

Bill, Thanks for the refference to Freeman's book. I read it and used its information in another time long ago and had completely forgotten about it. It was a pleasure to re-introduce it to my knowledge base.

I personally use the terms Hemp system and Counter Weight system to distinguish between sand bag and steel counterweight systems, simply because the vast majority of people I deal with, immediately know, correctly, which type of rigging system I am referring to.

I also was briefly confused with the term, "over hung", to refer to an upright system. The same poster referred to the grid steel, usually channel iron or I-Beams as "grid ribbons" a term I had not heard before. Is it possible those terms are more common in Europe or Australia?
 
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So when "the counterweight" is not metal on an arbor, is it not a counterweight or not a noun?

I too had never heard "grid ribbon" before.

It is still a "counter weight" adjective, but not a "counter weight" noun. So a sand bag is a counter weight but not a Counter Weight. Granted, those are my definitions as I find them to be used by the general public with which I happen to deal with. UMMV.
 
So I guess the concrete counterweights - on arbors on rigid guides - at Meyerson are not nouns, but adjectives.

It's like what's a fly or the fly. Or a stage versus a platform.

Bill Conner, ASTC, ETCP Certified Rigger #28 - Theatre
 
I also was briefly confused with the term, "over hung", to refer to an upright system. The same poster referred to the grid steel, usually channel iron or I-Beams as "grid ribbons" a term I had not heard before. Is it possible those terms are more common in Europe or Australia?

I'm the one who used those terms- not from Europe or Australia- just Texas.

Overhung vs. upright- I guess upright is more self-descriptive- I was trying to make the distinction between the two installation methods clear and probably confused more people than helped.

Grid ribbons - when walking on the grid, the top of the c-channel is flat and long, like a ribbon. Don't know who came up with the term or where it originated. It's always been the term of reference here. Actual I-beams are identified as such - you wouldn't ever call an I-beam a ribbon.

Hope that helps-
-Todd
 
I'm the one who used those terms- not from Europe or Australia- just Texas.

Overhung vs. upright- I guess upright is more self-descriptive- I was trying to make the distinction between the two installation methods clear and probably confused more people than helped.

Grid ribbons - when walking on the grid, the top of the c-channel is flat and long, like a ribbon. Don't know who came up with the term or where it originated. It's always been the term of reference here. Actual I-beams are identified as such - you wouldn't ever call an I-beam a ribbon.

Hope that helps-
-Todd

When I think of upright/overhung, I envision the blocks clamped to the grid wells - usually a pair of channels set vertically and about 10" apart - toes out - sometimes proud of the basic grid walking surface and sometimes flush. I tried to upload a photo but no luck. I can see the smaller walk on channels on their Y axis being called ribbons a little easier than the wells. Thanks for explaining.
 

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