Kneisley xenon conversion/Strong Trouper help
I might look at smaller cam-lok connectors. The ones supplied with the lycian units are way oversized for a 1600w spot. I don't even know where I would mount them. Although they are also rated at a rather low voltage. I'm really wondering if going with high voltage stuff is really a concern, clearly some manufacturers aren't bothered by it. I may even just go for standard welder connectors. The supercon connectors look nice because I can "key" them to prevent stupid accidents. But they seem pretty expensive for what they offer. Still unsure about the cable itself though.
The connectors are just tested and voltage rated by its manufacturer for the intended use. Chances are that Lycian had to do their own break down testing to determine what would work without arcing through to the chassis. More importantly, you'll need to use wire with high voltage insulation. That wire has special insulation, which I believe is silicon rubber. That insulation is soft and very prone to damage, so it'll need to be run in a protective jacket, such as stretchy loom.
The broadcast transmitters I work on have plate supplies of 9 kV. I've seen what happens when the wire insulation breaks down from the tiniest pin hole. It vaporizes whatever metal it arcs to quite efficiently. It's a bad feeling when the 200 A, three-phase breaker opens with a sound like a gun shot.
The broadcast transmitters I work on have plate supplies of 9 kV. I've seen what happens when the wire insulation breaks down from the tiniest pin hole. It vaporizes whatever metal it arcs to quite efficiently. It's a bad feeling when the 200 A, three-phase breaker opens with a sound like a gun shot.
I ended up ordering some 6 AWG silicone wire and the dinse-style welding connectors. I already have some wiring loom on hand that will work well for covering it. While none of it is rated for the 10kv that's going to be on it briefly, I will be doing a lot of my own testing before I trust it.
I still wish I could find some service data on the high voltage and control circuit. It is very clear someone has made some modifications in the past, and although none of them are unsafe, I would like to bring it back to stock and possibly add a remote power and strike button. It looks like there are provisions for it already, but the previously mentioned modifications bypass most of that. Everything in the high voltage/control section is very well put together, and all of the original work is even numbered. But without knowing exactly how it's supposed to work I have a feeling ill be tracing every single wire in here trying to figure out what i need to do.
Mac Hosehead
Well-Known Member
I recall Stong used a single Mil-Spec multi-pin connector between the spot and the ballast. I don't know the voltage rating of the connector but it has a metal shell so any potential arcing would be inside. I believe they used a silicon wire with a braided sheath and then all wires were contained with a nylon braided covering.
I actually looked into converting this to that newer mil-spec connector, the 575s at work use that setup. Unfortunately, it's more expensive than my "fool around with old things for the hell of it" budget allows. I don't remember exactly how much but it was north of $1000 just for cable and appropriate connectors. I sent Kneisley one last email today in hopes that someone may respond, I'm not sure they would have much info on something this old anyway.
