Color correction in color temperature is more than just some blue gel, it's color temperature boosting or color temperature minusing gel (CTB +/- gel) that does it. Also Color temperature does not change no matter how distant you get. It's only light - luminous output no matter what fixture you are using that suffers from the Law of Squares in reducing output. Also remeber that any gel you add to a fixture reduces to some extent the light output of the fixture. Color correct for the lesser color temperature and you now widen the gap in light output out of the L&E fixture - this given say a 1/8 CTB blue gel will more closely match up to the HPL lamp. This much less once the color temperature correction gel is added, you than can add the same coloring gel to double gel the fixture in making the L&E have the same color in output as that of the S-4 with a single gel. This also before we get into dimming. Not very easy to do or the best of things to try in matching.drawstuf99 said:As footer mentions, try doing some sort of color correction. The lights usually give off an old amber color, unlike the source fours which actually burn dang close to white. Try adding some blue that will mix with the amber to make a more white color, then gel to get the same color as the source four. Or add amber to a S4, either way.
I am not so sure, but with our Juniors, they start to lose their intensity quite fast as you get farther from your subject, somewhat unlike the regular 19* ones, for example. So this may help you with matching intensity. That could be just a bad bulb in our few juniors, but it seems that it's worked that way for me at least.