LED Cordless Trident for Little Mermaid Play

ship

Senior Team Emeritus
Premium Member
Built a corded LED microphone stand in the past that by like the 6th prototype worked out with a spare. Imagine even the cost of road cases just for microphone stands... two of them and that was a minor cost for the project given all of the R&D that went into it, time and parts. And over the years have too frequently gotten brought kicking and screaming into the LED tape world for doing special projects often short in time and big on the project meaning long hours to not just make the project work, but also make the tape work for the proect. LED tape just isn't very user friendly in trying all kinds of it over the years = double your project time and get lots of extra, than if on tour... expect to replace it all at some point if no frequent if portable in replacing sections at times. This beyond the some sections of it going dimmer or blank as happens also.

That's all with new tape, this is a 501c3 donation in scrap materials and my off time from work plus extra donated materials for a high school prodution in a lot of time (like over 120 hours so far) but only me able to provide time in doing it it as opposed to if for a show my crew of people working on it and lending their skills and thoughts. It's not going well, but it's going.

Finallly figured on the Milwaukee M-12 Lithium battery system - took time to find a battery powerful and strong enough but also very small. Luckily I had enough scrap tubing and plexiglass left over from other projects, that and the LED tape that was scrapped from use and I had to repair lots of - constantly.

All tested so far in every step of the process of course and after the harp is done tonight in painting and replacing yet another section at the start of the night.. This after starting over on half of the sections last night... Done and panited, than re-tested... three new LED sections went bad in chasing them all thru the project in repair or replacement again and again. In this case, it's only in the blue color but in two less important zones. Literally new sections went bad between the last test and painting white what I don't want seen, and sanding the surface to make glow, than testing again. Blue only... going to hand over the head of the harp to the electronics guys and see if they can fix but otherwise given it's only in the blue "happy magic" mode, I might leave it as it is with a few nodes not working but it a blue harp overall.

Other projects for my child to get onto at this point in taking lots more time than I thought on this project.

Once the trident head/harp is figured out, took some amount of director/son that is the actor/Dad at work as project manager interpititations of like v.4 now of what colors and or control the trident is to be doing. Even now.. some charactor named something like Ursula is dressed in purple and it's requested a green trident as opposed to other colors in not even yet requesting purple. But when it's main owner has the trident, it switches to red when mad and casting a spell. There is a conflict there the talent and director don't see yet in preference but having to get designed in for future color changes overall for coloring of the trident.

Two sustaind colors - one amber, the othe red. Two momentary contact colors, one on the red the other on the blue or white light in what ever I make it. Lots of TBA in not even testing if the whole thing will work. Also a lot of switching to make thiis work.

Wish this were just a prototype as I leaned from it's "prototype" creation a lot. Stuff like why if I'm connecting remote sections of LED tape do I need to dogmatically follow color code? If connecting one strip to another, white solid 18ga wire is easier to hide and splice sections together with. Easier to make go away and if tape done correctly, easier to mask as opposed to having to do the black,blue,green,red wires, and also stranded wires harder to sculpt. Stuff like node length, where to place wiring holes and lots of ETC. makes it obsolete in better were it just a prototype.

Functional wise the entire trident is ready to assemble in all parts ready to go. That was easy, wiring wise except for thee new sections that I might just leave dead, the harp works. Strips for the pole/shaft all in splicing repairs now work and are redy to go. All other hardware/components are redy to go except in figuring out how to mount the "bump" button momentary contact switches with a very shallow depth as a TBA project. Lots of R&D into that but something I think I figured out at least for switch in TBA how to mount.

Very difficult project in by the time it's figured out... what would be for a tour, I would consider this the prototype in expecting 250 man/hours so far and more to create the prototype the high school will be using. Good donated project in learning a lot every day on the project in how to do it for a future need. As I have said all thru the project, I know something cordless similar is coming and this is more so for my education because it's coming for a paid show need. Possibly once finished, it will be like 400 Man/hours to make it at this point and that's just to make the prototype viable for a high school show.

Yes... photos and details will be later but for now... LED trident project - not an easy project and hopefully by Monday done.
 
Last edited:
I was scrolling up from the bottom of the post and commented on how long it was and I said it must be a post by ship. I don't know how you do it! Haha well it'll be interesting to see the photos so I have a better idea
 
Aside from your LED strip issues, I have used these small buttons for temporary contact closures: http://www.ebay.com/itm/250818902536?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

and these for push on/push off operation: http://www.ebay.com/itm/321098914382?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

And used "sharkbite" tubing for more protection, yet still showing color on stage: http://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBite-1-2-in-x-25-ft-PEX-Pipe-U860W25/202033042#.UlZX0fPn_L8

sometimes known as PEX tubing. Just enough room for an LED strip.
 
Aside from your LED strip issues, I have used these small buttons for temporary contact closures: http://www.ebay.com/itm/250818902536?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

and these for push on/push off operation: http://www.ebay.com/itm/321098914382?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

And used "sharkbite" tubing for more protection, yet still showing color on stage: http://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBite-1-2-in-x-25-ft-PEX-Pipe-U860W25/202033042#.UlZX0fPn_L8

sometimes known as PEX tubing. Just enough room for an LED strip.



No photos yet, Tubing is polycarbinate with thick brackets (stacked donuts of acrilic) for harp assembly mount and battery housing. Sorry if long and not clear. Getting closer in done as per a project that is very intersting for me at least. Whole project is something I have not tried yet and something in as a project in detail will come up for shows I think in the future - cordless LED prop. Back in the day I converted a PAR 64 to a corded narrow beam flash light that the talent could wave at the audience, and be safe to hold. Not similar but similar, special projects are going LED mostly these days and that I looked into battery types and found the Milwaukee M12 battery best would be a good start for many 12v LED system wireless projects.

That was the main point in posting - that I'm inventing something and with details, and further details TBA, but also what I have figured out so far. Sorry if too long in post... Ship not posting much more in the future if it helps various people in me having too many words.
 
Last edited:
All worked well in finishing it up as best I could for a prototype. Slight problem of mis-labeled terminals on the LED tape during the weekend of reversing blue/green, but easily fixed. My guys tell me I probably had even if the same brand, the "corrected" version lot with the correct color code on one part verses the other. Luckily it was only an easy fix in changing out wires and I marked which were coming from the harp in the base + tested each assembly along the way.
All good in minor re-wiring and final back plate onto the battery housing for all else working and "oh’ crap..." While I left some room for the wiring to the battery to get inside the housing above it, I didn’t compensate for the 1/4" quick disconnect terminals plugging in the battery in not bending to fit, that and the gauge of wire I chose to feed it all didn’t easily bend to fit into the gap.
Had to add 1" to the assembly for more wiring space. Luckily I had chosen to screw/tap this splice/switch part of the assembly so it was just a question of making a 1" thick donut and adding it to the already large base. Unfortunately also, I didn’t line up correctly during the shaft installation the micro switch slots though and didn’t notice it until I was installing the switches. 1/4" difference between outer and inner tube with LED tape mounted on the inner tube, meant some Dremmel tool work to make a slot to fit the bump buttons. Was good and bad, now there is a silicone bump between each of the micro switches in making the holes larger, (left because that bump makes it easier to find the switches), but bad because I nicked the + line power to a 6" section above the switch in loosing two more sections of node. Probably lucky again in not really being obvious on stage I think due to how it’s held.. Just a nick too far in grinding away at the side of the LED tape again lost me sections of it working.
Were this the prototype for a paid production, this will have been the prototype and I learned a lot from it. In this case I now know a bunch for future needs on such a concept that’s coming - very much work supported in going cordless LED in R&D for the future. The next version, I could correct for all I have learned - anything from the harp measured for LED tape in cut length and back to back tape in some sections given dim sections, to other design stuff like now I know what type of micro switch to use in buying lots of them. Also more aggressive sanding to the shaft so it isn’t brighter than the harp, or change of materials even in that - something more white than clear.
There will not be another trident made - that short of paying for it in me well over 100 hours I think in labor at this point, and the scrap materials (not cheap) bought as new.
Director this past weekend was asking for another one already - this one don’t have to be LED, but needs to be tossed down onto a padded mat... How she was planning to switch from something lit to just something plexiglass in tossing it down is interesting for planning. General thought is the rehearsal prop I made out of a closet pole and specifically some MDF plywood should be painted and used if necessary. Already broke it - the rehearsal prop, and why I used MDF for the harp, but if glued together... sure. Otherwise I’ll check my stock on left over tubing from the microphone stand project, and I did lay out the harp on extra 3/4" plexiglass for the harp. Lots of acrilic cement available, and I’m sure more 3/4" acrylic available for reproducing the donuts that are mounting the battery/switch assembly and harp to the shaft.
Doubt the school in now having to do the work will go for that one to be tossed down, and my Wife theorizes that they will break the lit one on the first night... always that chance and than what.... I am onto the next projects.
The high school scene shop given materials and a already laid out harp if they want another can be given the parts to make another one. Otherwise if in good contact they should be with the other more mechanical parts of the school... they should be able to do this duplicate themselves. This from replacement to broken trident or dropped one. I would think make another full replacement - lots of scrap LED tape left over, and a good learning experience in making one.
Me, I’m off to transforming a plastic carved pumpkin Halloween candy bucket into a honey pot so as to match my daughter’s Winnie the Poo outfit. And other projects for the baby like stairs for the sink etc. that have been on hold.

Done with the trident, not my greatest work ever but one on short notice and were it just a prototype I would be able to production model fix all the problems. Learned a lot from the project but not able to fix it at this point short of starting over. Hope the photos show more of a "Renovation Realities" like problem in doing a production model for anything complex without doing the prototype and time. Just sanding or grinder hitting the LED tape takes out sections of it for example. Will it probably work for a main-stage production... yes, likely on stage luckily in nothing obvious. As a prop, probably also in going to wrap the shaft with scrim or cheese cloth in toning it down as a further detail so as to match a little better the lack of output on the harp/trident blade part of it. Best I can do, lots learned from it but the first and only one attempted.

Might be of interest in debate... I have one dual pole switch (on/off/on) and one on/off switch in the base. Also in the shaft, one normally open (on) momentry contact and one normally closed (off) monentary contact switch. Why in getting Amber/white/green/red was it wired how it was and why for back flow did I think it necessary the second base on/off switch? Goal was amber with bump modes of blue and red, and a seperate green mode. A good deal of time just went into figring out the circuitry without having to do an electronics package or adding resistors
 

Attachments

  • Trident 004.jpg
    Trident 004.jpg
    72.7 KB · Views: 1,603
  • Trident 002.jpg
    Trident 002.jpg
    92.5 KB · Views: 660
  • Trident 003.jpg
    Trident 003.jpg
    86.3 KB · Views: 626
  • Trident 005.jpg
    Trident 005.jpg
    69.2 KB · Views: 1,076
  • Trident 006.jpg
    Trident 006.jpg
    122.9 KB · Views: 627
Last edited:
I am currently working as Technical director for a junior school production of The Little Mermaid Jr. and can tell you that finding a prop like this is very difficult. You could probably get your time/money's worth out of renting this on MTIshowspace.com. In the meantime, I would be very interested in renting this for 2 weeks in March if you are interested. Thanks!
Aaron
 
Not rentable. Sorry, but handed off a community theater, and could only be dependable enough for one run.
Was a problem during dress rehearsals in that it was taken home for the night (specific reasons in not normal to do so, but am told of reasons valid enough.) Some other actor one night closed the door on it as per a joke. Broke off the center spoke and all wiring was fixed in tearing off pads to LED tape to other parts. Had to basically start over on the entire upper part of it in a not easy task.
A few days work, I had it fixed (second time after some sections of tape went bad in splice shaft repair,) and given used tape even tracked down a few more new issues with bad LED tape after completion. This with having to do splices in the shaft around the switch for bad sections. Splices to the polycarbinate shaft is a bad thing in weakening it.
Used LED tape or LED tape in general isn’t very dependable yet.
The used LED tape came off a tour in being replaced due to bad sections. That after time there was more bad sections wasn't a surprise in built for one production and from scrap materials. Lots of tours that have to get the LED tape replaced in the long run. While I cut out and spliced a lot of the LED tape that was in theory still good for this use... some more went bad and overall after a second use of it, the entire prop should be considered useless as per so many repairs and so many splices to used LED tape.

Could not be rental because it’s not known when it will be bad next time.
Plus this was a prototype in me learning how to make a prop LED cordless for future work needs. It was based off extra plastic materials left over from a LED microphone stand project for some other band. Main work and materials supported reason for the project was (beyond community outreach to an employee’s kid), so I could R&D the cordless LED tape prop light that is coming. Did it, done and ready for the project in knowing what I need to know for control and amongst other details in doing so, new tape for it. There won't be another one.

Sorry but this project is done now and it would be in the about $2K range to make another - it was very complex and labor intensive. Not worth even considering making another. I can tell you how to make one yourself, what parts I used etc. but the labor involved in making it is cost prohivitive even with the details and tips I learned in the process. The technology is coming but not quite there yet sufficient to easily build this item yet in a dependable way.
 
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread

Back