So I'm working on a 3" deep overall depth light box with a 1/4" thick milk plastic lens and 1/2" thick bottom. Believe it's like 18"x39" in lens. Will have wished a deeper box and might shoot for another inch but... Designer wanted this thick.
I have already decided on trying first a set of 24" and 36" T-5 high output fluorescent lamps from the outside edges of the lens. There will be a display object in the center on top of the light box, so lighting the center isn't as important. 11,000 lumens side lit = less direct for less overall lumens even with a white interior, but might be enough.
Second option is 6x 36" T-5 lamps 2.3/4" O.C. across the body of the lens for 21,000 Lumens more direct - but you will probably see the lines of light from the lamps thru the lens. Might try a RX-105 Tough Spun between lens and lamp if the direct lamp light isn't too bad for this fix. This might help further disperse but doubt enough.
Dialing in the luminous output with a dimmer at the display unit a bonus for shows dependant on the show ambient lighting needs, believe or think a CFL/LED dimmer will dim a T-5 lamp? Something I have never done before. Fluorescent dimmer?
Third option is back to the parameter side lighting but with 4 node wide LED tape (I really want to try the four node wide tape and bying the 98' spool is cheaper, I'll easily use the rest on other projects, and the followup parts of this project.) https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...mds-per-ft-high-cri-1-chip-smd-led-2835/3615/
LED tape mounted to the base of the light box vertically around all sides 1" back from the lens. 118" long, 12 watt per foot, 118 watts. 12,906.6 lumens. RS-150-24 Meanwell Power supply for it. Believe I can use a normal Lutron LED/CFL dimmer for dimming this. Or given the Meanwell psu is self adjusting for voltage, would trying to dim with a architectural LED/CFL dimmer not work?
Fourth option isn't viable really... it would be like the luminous output of a 1.5Kw incandescent lamp inside the light box for intensity and non-dimmable - but be really cool. Eight or nine strips of four node LED tape laid across the bottom of the light box with about a 1" spacing. 38,522 lumens but 351 watts and while I could do a SE-450-24 Meanwell PSU, there is no such thing as a LED architectural dimmer type I know of that could dim this. Has to be a dimmer in the display panel if going to dim at all. Even if I went only eight strips wide, it would be over 300 watts. 150 Watts to at best 200 Watts from what I understand is the best LED you can dim with a architectural type dimmer. This short of remote 1-10v control dimmer to a in-fixture or remote controlling PSU dimmer unit that isn't really designed for this purpose I think. Have some of these dimmers with some architectural LED high bay wash light fixtures converted to touring usage.
Fifth option, single node high output normal white tape but say 1" spacing (boring) and have to run the math for lumens and PSU+dimmer as probably option #3 or #4 realistically to work especially with the tough spun gel.
I have already decided on trying first a set of 24" and 36" T-5 high output fluorescent lamps from the outside edges of the lens. There will be a display object in the center on top of the light box, so lighting the center isn't as important. 11,000 lumens side lit = less direct for less overall lumens even with a white interior, but might be enough.
Second option is 6x 36" T-5 lamps 2.3/4" O.C. across the body of the lens for 21,000 Lumens more direct - but you will probably see the lines of light from the lamps thru the lens. Might try a RX-105 Tough Spun between lens and lamp if the direct lamp light isn't too bad for this fix. This might help further disperse but doubt enough.
Dialing in the luminous output with a dimmer at the display unit a bonus for shows dependant on the show ambient lighting needs, believe or think a CFL/LED dimmer will dim a T-5 lamp? Something I have never done before. Fluorescent dimmer?
Third option is back to the parameter side lighting but with 4 node wide LED tape (I really want to try the four node wide tape and bying the 98' spool is cheaper, I'll easily use the rest on other projects, and the followup parts of this project.) https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...mds-per-ft-high-cri-1-chip-smd-led-2835/3615/
LED tape mounted to the base of the light box vertically around all sides 1" back from the lens. 118" long, 12 watt per foot, 118 watts. 12,906.6 lumens. RS-150-24 Meanwell Power supply for it. Believe I can use a normal Lutron LED/CFL dimmer for dimming this. Or given the Meanwell psu is self adjusting for voltage, would trying to dim with a architectural LED/CFL dimmer not work?
Fourth option isn't viable really... it would be like the luminous output of a 1.5Kw incandescent lamp inside the light box for intensity and non-dimmable - but be really cool. Eight or nine strips of four node LED tape laid across the bottom of the light box with about a 1" spacing. 38,522 lumens but 351 watts and while I could do a SE-450-24 Meanwell PSU, there is no such thing as a LED architectural dimmer type I know of that could dim this. Has to be a dimmer in the display panel if going to dim at all. Even if I went only eight strips wide, it would be over 300 watts. 150 Watts to at best 200 Watts from what I understand is the best LED you can dim with a architectural type dimmer. This short of remote 1-10v control dimmer to a in-fixture or remote controlling PSU dimmer unit that isn't really designed for this purpose I think. Have some of these dimmers with some architectural LED high bay wash light fixtures converted to touring usage.
Fifth option, single node high output normal white tape but say 1" spacing (boring) and have to run the math for lumens and PSU+dimmer as probably option #3 or #4 realistically to work especially with the tough spun gel.