Control/Dimming Light bases burning out!

[jf5264835]

I want to put the old etc system back in. (the etc system is right next to the new system)

 

[ship]

Just watched a TV episode of "Barny Miller" called "Rain". Problems have been around since the old days of the 70's in all ways seen. Hope above with an active manager, but rare. Good job on the above getting it done.

 

[JD]

Get the call in to the district electrician. Make sure the term "Possible loose neutral" is included in the call. That should get them out fast!
Now, it may very well be that the problem is not from the install, but it sure sounds like it is. The reason I throw a question in there is that the old system was changed out for no apparent reason. Could be that someone noticed the problem and a very happy salesperson sold them a new system. In any case, the warranty issue should be kicked up to the district level as SOMEONE signed a contract with someone else for that kind of work to get done!

 

[jf5264835]

The reason it was replaced is because on the old system, it was constantly turning lights off. So they put the new dimming system in and... They put in an ac system!!! The old system had no ac.

 

[derekleffew]

... If there is a loose or missing neutral, socket voltage can be as high as 208V. Hence "flicker above 100 a lot." ...

After much searching, found this posted by @STEVETERRY to another forum:

PULLING THE NEUTRAL

This is easiest to understand by making a drawing. Draw a thee-phase service feeding three 575W, 120V lamps, each connected between a phase and neutral. So far so good.

Now erase the neutral, but leave the three lamps connected together at the neutral point. This is what happens when the neutral is pulled. Now, as long as the loads on the three phases are identical, they will continue to work, and approximately 120V will be delivered to each. That's because, in this case, the "fake neutral" point, while not tied to the transformer neutral, is a voltage divider created by the loads that is electrically equidistant from the three phases.

However, the "fake neutral" created in this scenario is dependent on the size and setting of each of the loads. If individual loads change, the "fake neutral" moves around electrically with respect to the three phases, resulting in overvoltage on some phases and undervoltage on others. This can blow up lamps and control equipment. In addition, no phase-control dimmer can operate properly without a solid, low impedance neutral connection to the transformer.

This is why it is not code-complaint to have any overcurrent device in the neutral, unless it is a four-pole, common-trip device that disconnects the three phases and the neutral simultaneously.

ST

Now, it's possible that your lockrail lights aren't really going above 100%, it just appears they are due to the flicker. In any case, the entire system needs to be inspected by a qualified electrician. I'd start by contacting Lehigh and working backwards down the chain.

 

[DavidNorth]

The reason it was replaced is because on the old system, it was constantly turning lights off. So they put the new dimming system in and... They put in an ac system!!! The old system had no ac.

Well, constantly turning the lights off may have readily been a simple and inexpensive fix. Having air conditioning in the room with the system, in Texas, should have been done with the initial Sensor install.

Now, as for the bruning sockets, is it possible you could post a couple pics for us to look at of both the sockets and the lamps that were in those sockets?

Thanks,

David

 

[jf5264835]

I'll try.