Lighting Instrument Heat-Resistant Cable?
- Thread starterpianoman
- Start date
I think that a restored Olivette would look awesome with a low wattage lamp in the place of the old 1000 watt mogul base PS lamp. No need to attach a table lamp socket to it. Maybe a 100 watt lamp on a dimmer running it at around 60% would give a great glow and be an nice conversation piece. As a old stage light junkie, I will want pics!
-or-
You have two of them, right? Convert one to HMI!
Pianoman, are you talking about what one of our users did, where he took 360Q's, took out the lamp base for the 500 watt lamps, and put regular 60 watt A lamps in them?
-or-
You have two of them, right? Convert one to HMI!
Pianoman, are you talking about what one of our users did, where he took 360Q's, took out the lamp base for the 500 watt lamps, and put regular 60 watt A lamps in them?
Last edited:
Les
Well-Known Member
The olivettes actually use a 500W E39 lamp, so it's not too bad...I also found adapters to covert E39 to E27 so I could use, for example, some of those 300W CFL bulbs. I had thought of using these as portable flood lights in some occasions. But, with that adapter, I could also put in some regular bulbs and use them for room lighting I suppose. Or I could use them as-is; I've already got some variable transformers that are up for the job (though I should probably get some fans for them, right now they're in sealed boxes and get a little warm with a 500W load).
I will upload pics in the next couple of days; I've got them all wired and mostly reassembled, but I will take them apart later and wire brush them and repaint them because the paint now (at least on the inside) is flaking off like there's no tomorrow.
Also, I did realize today when I put them back together that one of them at least is for sure Kliegl, because the back piece is stamped "Kliegl Bros.". What I also noticed is that the parts between the two aren't interchangeable; they don't line up correctly. So it's possible that one is an Altman, or that one was bought at a much later date. Who knows...
-Dan
I will upload pics in the next couple of days; I've got them all wired and mostly reassembled, but I will take them apart later and wire brush them and repaint them because the paint now (at least on the inside) is flaking off like there's no tomorrow.
Also, I did realize today when I put them back together that one of them at least is for sure Kliegl, because the back piece is stamped "Kliegl Bros.". What I also noticed is that the parts between the two aren't interchangeable; they don't line up correctly. So it's possible that one is an Altman, or that one was bought at a much later date. Who knows...
-Dan
Discussed refab. a lot on the forum, might do a search into SF-2 and FEP though the 200c version of FEP seems just as substantial in use. SF-2 is available as both silicone and Teflon and fiberglass braided outer jacket on it and not. I prefer the fiberglass outer jacket but in all instances it is not necessary.
On the fiberglass sleeving, normally a 5/16" size #0 trade size is what you would want. This fiberglass (make sure it’s not nylon sleeving) and the heat wire - don’t use TGGT for fixture whips, you can get such stuff from a quality electrical supply house by way of special order, any theater supplier or a cable distributer. This plus McMaster Carr of course.
As said, these topics have been discussed in length on this forum in the past, might do a search. While not specific to ovalites or scoops more likely (box like or rounded) same concepts. High temperature ring terminals to attach to the lamp sockets, examination of the lamp sockets, fiberglass electrical tape over the crimp part of the ring terminal, silicone bronze external tooth lock washers on the screw, replace the screws etc. this after re-surfacing the lamp socket and or replacing it. All in addition to if E-39 Mogul Screw type lamp socket, you have a choice of sockets with SF-2 whips already attached or with screw terminals for replacement whips. Leviton, Buhl, Wurth, Eagle and others - quite a few other suppliers of the socket including Ushio I believe.
Lots of details in working on old fixtures.
Looking for that adaptor myself, perhaps you do have Ovalites. Research into my solution with my own ovalite in the past for pipe mounting it. There is a base up hanging position for it you need to respect. My own bracket for hanging warped a wee bit in not being structured correctly but it was a quickie. For doing the stand adaptor, I would weld a 1" to 1.1/4" pipe adaptor to a Unistrut L’ plate.
On paint, probably a ceramic white on the inside. On seen anything like them, there is some photos of my Ovalite on this website.
Wooden bodied stage pin, do you mean actual stage pin instead of pin and sleeve style most call stage pin these days? Is that a wooden body with two plates at a drastic angle or wooden body with spring loaded plates? Would help to tell the age of the plugs.
Grounding near the lamp socket is normally better if on a slide or focus plate, otherwise normal near the cable grip. Might want to avoid grounding to the socket’s mounting screw due to the nature of expansion and contraction plus proper tension and porcelain this is dealing with. Best off in grounding with it’s own hole and screw. Alternating current don’t have a + or -. ON screw base or pre-focus base sockets you always make the “hot” the center contact and the screw shell the neutral / grounding conductor. Reason being should you change your lamp while the fixture is live, touching the screw shell of your lamp while doing so would shock you. Mog screw lamps are available in various wattages but the screw adaptor is a good idea for lamping it down under 300w.
On the un-stamped one, unless a name plate tag/sticker that has either fallen off or has warn off it’s probably older. Early on makers of stamped steel gear didn’t mark it. When cleaning you should be able to see if there is a sticker be it IA or maker somewhere on the fixture. Don’t think Altman ever made an Ovalite though they might have. If un-stamped overall and or without markings, possible it’s older. Lots of details - see Fuchs “Stage Lighting.” Been discussed before on the forum in me trying to figure out the age of my own Ovalite.
For incandescent lamp in the fixture if used at home, I would probably go with the E-39 to E-26 adaptor and get a “Nestolgic” antique ‘Edison’ lamp from a supplier like Bulbrite or others - look on the web for the above description for reproduction old style lamps. Such lamps have really cool shapes to the bulb and very interesting filaments. This or go to a supplier like Nelson Lamps for a LED bulb - a string of LED lamps in series suspended inside the glass bulb. Otherwise Osram has a LED color changing lamp on the market that takes a normal E-26 base. Granted this lamp would be lost within the huge ovalite.
Remember to balance how much you refinish, verses how much you do to it in not keeping the antique’s essence. Would say a clear coat in keeping the age but preventing rust for instance not be another solution amongst a world of other things that could be done. Not a new fixture, why make it that?
On the fiberglass sleeving, normally a 5/16" size #0 trade size is what you would want. This fiberglass (make sure it’s not nylon sleeving) and the heat wire - don’t use TGGT for fixture whips, you can get such stuff from a quality electrical supply house by way of special order, any theater supplier or a cable distributer. This plus McMaster Carr of course.
As said, these topics have been discussed in length on this forum in the past, might do a search. While not specific to ovalites or scoops more likely (box like or rounded) same concepts. High temperature ring terminals to attach to the lamp sockets, examination of the lamp sockets, fiberglass electrical tape over the crimp part of the ring terminal, silicone bronze external tooth lock washers on the screw, replace the screws etc. this after re-surfacing the lamp socket and or replacing it. All in addition to if E-39 Mogul Screw type lamp socket, you have a choice of sockets with SF-2 whips already attached or with screw terminals for replacement whips. Leviton, Buhl, Wurth, Eagle and others - quite a few other suppliers of the socket including Ushio I believe.
Lots of details in working on old fixtures.
Looking for that adaptor myself, perhaps you do have Ovalites. Research into my solution with my own ovalite in the past for pipe mounting it. There is a base up hanging position for it you need to respect. My own bracket for hanging warped a wee bit in not being structured correctly but it was a quickie. For doing the stand adaptor, I would weld a 1" to 1.1/4" pipe adaptor to a Unistrut L’ plate.
On paint, probably a ceramic white on the inside. On seen anything like them, there is some photos of my Ovalite on this website.
Wooden bodied stage pin, do you mean actual stage pin instead of pin and sleeve style most call stage pin these days? Is that a wooden body with two plates at a drastic angle or wooden body with spring loaded plates? Would help to tell the age of the plugs.
Grounding near the lamp socket is normally better if on a slide or focus plate, otherwise normal near the cable grip. Might want to avoid grounding to the socket’s mounting screw due to the nature of expansion and contraction plus proper tension and porcelain this is dealing with. Best off in grounding with it’s own hole and screw. Alternating current don’t have a + or -. ON screw base or pre-focus base sockets you always make the “hot” the center contact and the screw shell the neutral / grounding conductor. Reason being should you change your lamp while the fixture is live, touching the screw shell of your lamp while doing so would shock you. Mog screw lamps are available in various wattages but the screw adaptor is a good idea for lamping it down under 300w.
On the un-stamped one, unless a name plate tag/sticker that has either fallen off or has warn off it’s probably older. Early on makers of stamped steel gear didn’t mark it. When cleaning you should be able to see if there is a sticker be it IA or maker somewhere on the fixture. Don’t think Altman ever made an Ovalite though they might have. If un-stamped overall and or without markings, possible it’s older. Lots of details - see Fuchs “Stage Lighting.” Been discussed before on the forum in me trying to figure out the age of my own Ovalite.
For incandescent lamp in the fixture if used at home, I would probably go with the E-39 to E-26 adaptor and get a “Nestolgic” antique ‘Edison’ lamp from a supplier like Bulbrite or others - look on the web for the above description for reproduction old style lamps. Such lamps have really cool shapes to the bulb and very interesting filaments. This or go to a supplier like Nelson Lamps for a LED bulb - a string of LED lamps in series suspended inside the glass bulb. Otherwise Osram has a LED color changing lamp on the market that takes a normal E-26 base. Granted this lamp would be lost within the huge ovalite.
Remember to balance how much you refinish, verses how much you do to it in not keeping the antique’s essence. Would say a clear coat in keeping the age but preventing rust for instance not be another solution amongst a world of other things that could be done. Not a new fixture, why make it that?
