Yes indeed; the thread title itself says "model train museum."
Design Lighting model train museum
- Thread starterTenball
- Start date
@DrewE Perhaps Ship interpreted it as a model of exquisite perfection rather than scale?
Toodleoo!
Ron (a model of politeness, understanding, and gentlemanly consideration) Hebbard
I'm concerned that the warehouse lights won't put out enough light. A 75 W equivalent bulb puts out a fraction of the lumens from a pair of 8' fluorescents.
A less glamorous option would be to use LED retrofit tubes in the existing fixtures. They put out more light than the anemic, energy saver fluorescents sold today. They require almost no maintenance and save energy. There are three types of retrofit tubes.
Type A, ballast compatible: LED tubes go right in place of a fluorescent tube, and relies on the existing ballast. Ballast life is extended by the lighter load, but not all ballasts will work. Not dimmable.
Type B, ballast bypass: The tubes require removal of the ballast, and rewiring the fixture. The LED tube has an internal driver and runs on 120V, and requires a small fuse inside the fixture. Not dimmable. Some electricians and jurisdictions don't consider type B safe.
Type C, remote driver: The tubes run on an external driver that replaces the ballast, along with rewiring the fixture. Dimmable drivers are available, and they are controlled from common, 0-10V controls. Drivers are basically low voltage, constant current supplies. The advantage is that this combo probably lasts the longest, and has no safety worries.
I rebuilt almost 200 linear feet of lights in a church with GE type C lamps and drivers. It took me roughly 12 hours to systematically demo out the old parts, wipe down the fixtures, and install drivers and wiring. I had a helper to cut wire kits, hand me parts, and keep us organized. They have been perfect for a couple of years now.
Another option would be to replace the fluorescent fixtures with new, LED fixtures. If the work is done by a contractor, this might be cheaper because swapping fixtures could take less time than retrofitting.
A less glamorous option would be to use LED retrofit tubes in the existing fixtures. They put out more light than the anemic, energy saver fluorescents sold today. They require almost no maintenance and save energy. There are three types of retrofit tubes.
Type A, ballast compatible: LED tubes go right in place of a fluorescent tube, and relies on the existing ballast. Ballast life is extended by the lighter load, but not all ballasts will work. Not dimmable.
Type B, ballast bypass: The tubes require removal of the ballast, and rewiring the fixture. The LED tube has an internal driver and runs on 120V, and requires a small fuse inside the fixture. Not dimmable. Some electricians and jurisdictions don't consider type B safe.
Type C, remote driver: The tubes run on an external driver that replaces the ballast, along with rewiring the fixture. Dimmable drivers are available, and they are controlled from common, 0-10V controls. Drivers are basically low voltage, constant current supplies. The advantage is that this combo probably lasts the longest, and has no safety worries.
I rebuilt almost 200 linear feet of lights in a church with GE type C lamps and drivers. It took me roughly 12 hours to systematically demo out the old parts, wipe down the fixtures, and install drivers and wiring. I had a helper to cut wire kits, hand me parts, and keep us organized. They have been perfect for a couple of years now.
Another option would be to replace the fluorescent fixtures with new, LED fixtures. If the work is done by a contractor, this might be cheaper because swapping fixtures could take less time than retrofitting.
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