Litepak model 600

Captain_419

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This is my first time coming to this board with a problem(have watched the site for a couple of years and finally signed up).
I received a Litepak 600-601 dimmer and control module, it is a two scene preset with 6 channels. Now the device is acting a bit strange and i was wondering if anybody knew of any sources of info for maintenance and such possibly a user manual some where. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Captain_419
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Welcome (officially) to the booth!

I have never heard of Litepak. It sounds familiar because EDI (Electronics Diversified, Inc) used to put combo packages together and name them similar things, but as far as I can tell, this is not EDI gear.

Could you go further in explaining exactly what is going on or how the system is acting strange? Troubleshooting is often the same or similar no matter who made the equipment, so maybe we can start from there.

For one, the connection at the dimmer pack looks a little problematic. Is it supposed to be that way?
 
Welcome (officially) to the booth!

I have never heard of Litepak. It sounds familiar because EDI (Electronics Diversified, Inc) used to put combo packages together and name them similar things, but as far as I can tell, this is not EDI gear.

Could you go further in explaining exactly what is going on or how the system is acting strange? Troubleshooting is often the same or similar no matter who made the equipment, so maybe we can start from there.

For one, the connection at the dimmer pack looks a little problematic. Is it supposed to be that way?

I have included a link to a XML file with detailed diagnostics on each channel and there issues, Litepak was a system made by Dilor Lighting in Canada so I have read but theres literally nothing on any of the systems anywhere. good eye that connector works but somebody broke the collar housing so it just flops, i plan to replace it with a new cpc connector.

http://www21.zippyshare.com/v/34494099/file.html

Captain_419
 
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Unfortunately, I couldn't get the XML file to open, but I'll try it on a different computer tomorrow. No really detailed explanation needed at this point, just key things like "lights flickering", "channels unresponsive", etc. Maybe you have that in the file and someone else will have better luck opening it :).

Dilor sounds about right. These older/more obscure systems can be hard to get info on -- especially if they were discontinued prior to the internet age. It all hinges on whether or not someone was kind enough to convert files or scan the manuals in to a computer.
 
Unfortunately, I couldn't get the XML file to open, but I'll try it on a different computer tomorrow. No really detailed explanation needed at this point, just key things like "lights flickering", "channels unresponsive", etc. Maybe you have that in the file and someone else will have better luck opening it :).

Dilor sounds about right. These older/more obscure systems can be hard to get info on -- especially if they were discontinued prior to the internet age. It all hinges on whether or not someone was kind enough to convert files or scan the manuals in to a computer.
try the link above, the xml covers the needs above just a bit more organized
 
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... I have never heard of Litepak. ...
While that may be true (even if you did post in one of the threads discussing same), Dilor Litepak dimmers have been discussed in at least three threads of their own:
http://www.controlbooth.com/threads/the-new-old-guy-signs-in.26793
http://www.controlbooth.com/threads/dilor-litepak-control-voltage.16154
http://www.controlbooth.com/threads/analogue-dimmer-dilor-pin-assignments.17557

One of the threads contains posts by a founder/owner, another by a former employee, and others who have actually worked on/with these systems. If none of them respond to this thread, drop anyone who seems knowledgeable a Private Message (I guess the new term is Conversation) asking/begging for assistance.
 
I am having control issues with the control board , but i was wondering if it was maybe the board or the dimmers that are not working if you could supply input that would be great, the xml file in the link above has my current problems layed out.


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I am having control issues with the control board , but i was wondering if it was maybe the board or the dimmers that are not working if you could supply input that would be great, the xml file in the link above has my current problems layed out.
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I have neither the ability nor the willingness to download an xml file and figure out what it says. English text, yes. XML, no. Your call.
 
I have neither the ability nor the willingness to download an xml file and figure out what it says. English text, yes. XML, no. Your call.

Basic run down is channels 1-3 have no dimming capability, the GM on all scenes make 1-3 flicker from 25% (constant) and flicker, while 4-6 dim full spectrum with channel select only but will cut out when gm is dropped below approc 25% (no effect from gm otherwise) the excel document goes into a more indepth explination as the reaction between scenes and channels as well as GM's but the above is a basic run-down


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I have neither the ability nor the willingness to download an xml file and figure out what it says. English text, yes. XML, no. Your call.
Normally, I'd agree with you, but got curious when my computer didn't know what an XML file was. Turns out it's a Microsoft Excel variant. What's wrong with good ol' XLS?

Here it is in JPG form:
litepak_diagnostic_v1.jpg
 
Thank you for posting it as a pic did not think of doing that (thats what happens when you do to many things at once)

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Thanks for posting a picture - sorry I was a bit abrupt, but it was a long week in the salt mines and I work with a computer security group that keeps hammering home the "don't download something you don't know about" message. And XML files can contain executables, so they're particularly dangerous.

Looking at the summary of issues, you have two or three things wrong.

First, there are two possible problems for channels 1 - 3. It's possible that the triacs on 1 and 2 are blown. If so, replacement parts are not available unless you can cannibalize another M610 dimmer unit. They are replaceable, just hard to find. The alternative possibility is that the zero-crossing detector and ramp circuit for 1-3 has a failed part, and the unsteady results on 3 are just noise. The two inputs each feed an independent group of three dimmers, each with separate zero crossing and slope generators - that way you can run it off two legs of a three-phase and get full power across both halves.

Second, there's a problem in the controller. *2 suggests an open ground on the master sliders, which would make them permanently "10". Movement would have no effect.

If I can think of anything else, I'll post.
 
Thanks for posting a picture - sorry I was a bit abrupt, but it was a long week in the salt mines and I work with a computer security group that keeps hammering home the "don't download something you don't know about" message. And XML files can contain executables, so they're particularly dangerous.

Looking at the summary of issues, you have two or three things wrong.

First, there are two possible problems for channels 1 - 3. It's possible that the triacs on 1 and 2 are blown. If so, replacement parts are not available unless you can cannibalize another M610 dimmer unit. They are replaceable, just hard to find. The alternative possibility is that the zero-crossing detector and ramp circuit for 1-3 has a failed part, and the unsteady results on 3 are just noise. The two inputs each feed an independent group of three dimmers, each with separate zero crossing and slope generators - that way you can run it off two legs of a three-phase and get full power across both halves.

Second, there's a problem in the controller. *2 suggests an open ground on the master sliders, which would make them permanently "10". Movement would have no effect.

If I can think of anything else, I'll post.

Do you know what model number the triac was or the specs of the triac so i can find an alternative part if need be, would a burnt out pot on the controller be the issue of channel 1-3 being nfg? And the masters acting strange ? Do you happen to know the part used for the connector on the pack side socket mount?


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Do you know what model number the triac was or the specs of the triac so i can find an alternative part if need be, would a burnt out pot on the controller be the issue of channel 1-3 being nfg? And the masters acting strange ? Do you happen to know the part used for the connector on the pack side socket mount?


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Fixing these things is a breeze if you have an oscilloscope, and really difficult without one. The general rule for these things, once they were finished at the factory, was that if they didn't work there was usually only one or at most two things wrong. To fix them, you had to figure out what was actually wrong with it first - just swapping parts was a waste of time and material. A bad solder joint could waste an entire afternoon if you weren't careful.

The triac was a custom packaged Unitrode 30A 400V device on a TO-3 base with a ceramic isolator and a soft plastic cover. Triggering was an opto-isolator. Unitrode was bought and shut down by Texas Instruments years ago, so new parts are not available. If I had to replace one, I'd see if I could make a Littelfuse Q6035P Series 35 A 600 V TRIAC TO-3 work. Ratings look right and the package has the right outline. Only problem is that the Unitrode device had three vertical copper pins soldered straight into the mainboard while the Littelfuse has three push-on connectors. If I were working on it, though, I'd make sure you've got proper signal and ramp voltages on the control board before I started unmounting the mainboard. To remove the board, there are a row of screws in the bottom that are the triac mounting screws, and then a few more that are the standoffs. Take them all out and the board comes out. When you put it back, clean up the heat sink compound and put a small dab (1/8" or so) in the middle of each triac base. When you do up the screws it spreads out evenly and works properly. That was the factory assembly process.

If the master pots were both open, it would do that, but why would both be open? I'd check all the voltages on the controller board - it's dead simple inside - and see what's going on. If I remember correctly, the cross fader was done with a time-domain multiplexer - each set of slider levels was sent to an output filter for times determined by the settings of the masters. That way a scene A pot fading to a scene B pot at the same level didn't dip half-way through the fade. Again, if anything goes wrong with the ramps or the pots, it creates a weird-looking result that's actually fairly easy to fix once you figure what's broken.

If you're asking for the control cable connectors, they're a low-cost (but decent quality) Cannon connector. 10 pins. I'll see if I can find a part number somewhere, but I expect they've been out of production for decades. This product was a new release in 1981, so it's been a while.
 

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