Looking for "best practice" on storing luminaires

Our's were stored up stairs in a hallway on the ground so we built a meat rack using chain link fence pipe and 3/4" plywood. The pipe obviously smiles a bit when loaded down, but it's not flexing enough to the point where I would think it would fail. Our cost was about $80 for the pipe.

The plans were acquired from this instructable:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Stage-lighting-storage-and-work-cart/

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Look at that 1K Kliegel Bro. 8" fresnel. Love it. I have about 10 of those in my inventory. My lamp vendor told me I was the only person
still using them.
 
Look at that 1K Kliegel Bro. 8" fresnel. Love it. I have about 10 of those in my inventory. My lamp vendor told me I was the only person
still using them.

These still work, I've got to sit down and fashion some new yokes for them, but apparently the school got them from a TV studio years back.
 
I've seen various different storage systems in various places. I really do find that "hanging" fixtures a much better option than them "sitting" around. Fixtures falling over or shifting around or otherwise getting bumped around will cause damage for sure. Bent shutters, lamps loosing life, etc. Some of the other methods mentioned work just as well, especially for staying in one place.
The worst part of them being on the floor is that they take up lots of realestate and being in the way are likely to be booted as people try and move around to grab the one they are after. If standing up on the floor, chances are that they will fall over.

At one theatre I work at, fixtures are stored along the top rails of the catwalk. At one community theatre I've been involved with over the the years (much much less now) I had built a storage rack that to my dismay is not used. Fixtures are on the floor and HAVE suffered for it.
 
I would say -- and everyone's implied it here, but I didn't see anyone acutually *say it out loud* -- that wherever you store them, *they should be hanging from a pipe*, not sitting on the floor where they can get knocked over. Filaments do break.
 
I would say -- and everyone's implied it here, but I didn't see anyone acutually *say it out loud* -- that wherever you store them, *they should be hanging from a pipe*, not sitting on the floor where they can get knocked over. Filaments do break.
Actually I think I did (didn't re-read to see) :p
 
Came across this, and thought it pertinent to the thread.

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From https://designandtechtheatre.wordpress.com/2011/05/

Two things I just have to say about that diagram. First is that I greatly prefer that method of tail storage. It's far less damaging than tying the tail in a knot. Second, is that diagram really suggesting I run the clamp bolt in all the way and tighten it when I strike a light? That seems like a massive waste of time and effort. Unless they store lights on a meat rack, then this makes sense.


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Two things I just have to say about that diagram. First is that I greatly prefer that method of tail storage. It's far less damaging than tying the tail in a knot. Second, is that diagram really suggesting I run the clamp bolt in all the way and tighten it when I strike a light? That seems like a massive waste of time and effort. Unless they store lights on a meat rack, then this makes sense.


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Agreed, I also like the safety going around the light, they're a lot less likely to get tangled up with another fixture that way. We tighten the clamp down finger tight, no need to use a wrench unless storage is on a pipe that's going to fly, or on a meat rack that is going on a truck.
 
We're going to pack out this Sunday, and I want to recommend that we leave the lights where they are, just unplugged and tidy.

Other than preventing them from being used, why unplug them at all? I guess it depends on the way the venue gets used, but if they aren't in the way, just leave them.
 
Other than preventing them from being used, why unplug them at all? I guess it depends on the way the venue gets used, but if they aren't in the way, just leave them.
That was my argument too. I didn't win. Oh, well. ;-)
 
That's actually how I learned to store things, maybe not quite so specific on how tight some bolts should be, but similar for sure. I just wish my students would remember to push in shutters when they go into storage.
 
Sometimes for very long-term storage or transport without proper transit/vehicle provisions, I'll slide a piece of cardboard in to the gel frame of an ellipsoidal or fresnel. Good for when you have to lay a fixture on its side in the trunk of a car. I also secure whips and push in shutters, but I don't think I've ever gone through the lengths shown in the graphic Derek posted. Then again, most spaces I work in barely have enough fixtures to keep their rep circuits warm let alone have things go unused.

I've never known fixtures to gather more dust on the floor than they do when in the air. Main problem on the floor is that people tend to kick things over in the dark, and it isn't exactly the best use of vertical storage space.
 
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Sometimes for very long-term storage or transport without proper transit/vehicle provisions, I'll slide a piece of cardboard in to the gel frame of an ellipsoidal or fresnel. Good for when you have to lay a fixture on its side in the trunk of a car. I also secure whips and push in shutters, but I don't think I've ever gone through the lengths shown in the graphic Derek posted. Then again, most spaces I work in barely have enough fixtures to keep their rep circuits warm let alone have things go unused.

I've never known fixtures to gather more dust on the floor than they do when in the air. Main problem on the floor is that people tend to kick things over in the dark, and it isn't exactly the best use of vertical storage space.

Cardboard at least up North often retains moisture - though not a bad idea with synthetic material for dust to make it a little less, 1/2" thick miteral like hard foam would possibly be better. Lots of fixtures I have worked on over the years have suffered from sitting on the gel frame clips to the concreat. Not a huge problem and the most often area to scratch up and easiest to fix. But a problem becomes when gel frame brackets get bent or rusted inside the concave. Bent can be fixed but causes problems with the weld or rivet when done. Not a question of dust, it's the moisture that starts at what is touching cement even if not flooded.

But agreed rare a long term storage say unless summer stock lights that are stored all winter say in the North. Here might be a question, if for long term storage spray everything down with oil and clean later or not? Perhaps better full service call with oil to all fasteners and re-surfacing and coating before so when gear is again used, only a wipe down; or perhaps bagging the light, and putting a sponge coated with oil inside the bag. With lots more options - if gear isn't going to be used for a while, I would think it better to service call the gear before storage with light work after bringing it back, than directly sending used gear into storage without that service call.

New gear can be stored for years, and I think most are bagged and come with oil packets or silica packets, old gear just put away often needs a lot of work to use. Serviced gear should I think if bagged and oil packet or silica packet (think that's what it is to absorb), allows for gear ready to go.
 
Cardboard at least up North often retains moisture - though not a bad idea with synthetic material for dust to make it a little less, 1/2" thick miteral like hard foam would possibly be better. Lots of fixtures I have worked on over the years have suffered from sitting on the gel frame clips to the concreat. Not a huge problem and the most often area to scratch up and easiest to fix. But a problem becomes when gel frame brackets get bent or rusted inside the concave. Bent can be fixed but causes problems with the weld or rivet when done. Not a question of dust, it's the moisture that starts at what is touching cement even if not flooded.

True about moisture, especially for basement storage. My geographical area is pretty dry and basements are fairly uncommon, so the thought never occurred to me. I keep a few random fixtures in a storage unit and I always make it a point to elevate the fixtures at least 1' off the floor (usually on utility shelving). Mostly because I don't want them right in my way, but also to prevent scratching on the gel frame clips, and to prevent any water damage. I've never known my storage unit to flood, but I don't want to end up with rusted out fixtures in case it ever does. One day I want to hang some unistrut or 1.5" pipe.
 
So I'm in the process of revamping the storage at my theatre and one of the things I am looking into doing is building a Meat Rack for some of our lights. Right now they are being stored on the ground in a storage space that's under the seats and it's a questionable situation at best. Unfortunately, I don't have access to welding equipment and was wondering if anyone had any suggestions as to how to go about building this so it's sturdy and can hold lighting but without welding anything. I was thinking of using a mix of plywood and pipes, with ideally 3 pipes for hanging lights.
 
threaded pipes? can you put flanges on each end of the pipe?
i would suggest that :
use LARGE casters
size unit for its storage location but not much longer than 6'
size unit to fit through any doors

three pipes may make it too tall to fit doors.
 

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