Conventional Fixtures Maintenance and cleaning advice needed

Greetings, I have 18 Altman 1KL6 zooms in a front of house position accessible by catwalk. They are in need of some cleaning and maintenance.

My first question is what is the safest and easiest way to strike them? It's been suggested that I lower them to the floor by rope. I like this suggestion because they are a pain to bring onto the catwalk due to their size, weight, and the bars on the catwalk. Plus, they will be much easier to work with at ground level.

Second question, what is the recommended way to clean lenses? I know to avoid cleaners containing ammonia. Would white paper towel and water be fine?

Finally, I know I am going to encounter some cracked lenses. Are the front and rear lenses the same so that I can replace a rear lens in one instrument with the front lens from another for example? According to the parts manual I found (p53) it's true for every model except the 40 degree, but I don't know which model we have. Ultimately, I can measure the lenses of course, but I wanted to ask first.

Thank you for fielding these newbie questions.
 
We raise and lower our on a rope since there is no easy access to our cats. As for cleaning a lint free cloth is best, but paper towels will work in a pinch. We uses isopropyl alcohol for cleaning, you can water it down to a 50/50 mix with water if you want.
 
... My first question is what is the safest and easiest way to strike them? It's been suggested that I lower them to the floor by rope. ...
Mount a sheave (pulley) in an area open to the floor below. Use a rope twice as long as the floor to sheave distance. Tie a bowline on each end. Slip the loop of the bowline under the yoke then over the c-clamp. Close all shutters and make sure all knobs are tightened. Adjust the tilt-lock so the unit is pointing straight down. The people on the ground do all the heavy work. When the empty end gets to the catwalk, repeat with another unit. You never have to backtrack an empty rope.

... Second question, what is the recommended way to clean lenses? I know to avoid cleaners containing ammonia. Would white paper towel and water be fine?
A better alternative is disposable paper coffee filters, virtually lint free. Second the 50/50 alcohol/water mix. Similarly, also clean the reflector.

... Finally, I know I am going to encounter some cracked lenses. Are the front and rear lenses the same so that I can replace a rear lens in one instrument with the front lens from another for example? According to the parts manual I found (p53) it's true for every model except the 40 degree, but I don't know which model we have. Ultimately, I can measure the lenses of course, but I wanted to ask first.
"...but I don't know which model we have..." "...I have 18 Altman 1KL6 zooms..." The Altman 1KL6-2040Z zoom ERS contains three unique, non-interchangeable lenses. Perhaps yours are not zooms? In any case, the attached pdf might help.

As long as you have all the fixtures on the ground in one place, see also http://www.controlbooth.com/wiki/?title=Collaborative-Articles:Lighting-Fixture-Maintenance&highlight=lighting fixture maintenance .

Editorially, I must add that I don't think I'd go to all the above trouble. The 1KL series is one of, if not, THE, worst line of ERS ever made. Good luck.

http://www.controlbooth.com/threads/old-altman-1kl-ellipsoidals.22917/
http://www.controlbooth.com/threads/altman-1kl-series-question.33613
http://www.controlbooth.com/threads/altman-1kl.8206/
http://www.controlbooth.com/threads/altman-1kl6-parts.6160/
http://www.controlbooth.com/threads/repair-or-buy-new.7211/
 

Attachments

  • Altman 1KL_series_EXPLODED.pdf
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Mount a sheave (pulley) in an area open to the floor below. Use a rope twice as long as the floor to sheave distance. Tie a bowline on each end. Slip the loop of the bowline under the yoke then over the c-clamp. Close all shutters and make sure all knobs are tightened. Adjust the tilt-lock so the unit is pointing straight down. The people on the ground do all the heavy work. When the empty end gets to the catwalk, repeat with another unit. You never have to backtrack an empty rope.

It sounds like you're suggesting that you alternate which end of the rope is used, but I don't understand what the people on the floor are holding if the empty bowline is at the catwalk?

A better alternative is disposable paper coffee filters, virtually lint free. Second the 50/50 alcohol/water mix. Similarly, also clean the reflector.

Coffee filters, thanks!

The Altman 1KL6-2040Z zoomERS contains three unique, non-interchangeable lenses. Perhaps yours are not zooms?

Oh! I thought the entire 1KL6 line were zooms. So ours are almost definitely 2040Z, that makes sense now. I guess I assumed that with the successful 360Q line Altman wouldn't make such a horrible ers. So with 3 unique lenses my plan to cannibalize fixtures may not pan out depending on what I find.

In any case, I understand these things are hardly worth the effort, but it's a school auditorium. It's all we have to work with so I'm just trying to make the best of it. Thank you so much for your helpful response!
 
It sounds like you're suggesting that you alternate which end of the rope is used, but I don't understand what the people on the floor are holding if the empty bowline is at the catwalk? ...
They're not holding anything, UNTIL you put another fixture on at the catwalk. You'll find this method especially useful when putting the fixtures back up there. Gravity--thou art a cruel mistress.
 
They're not holding anything, UNTIL you put another fixture on at the catwalk. You'll find this method especially useful when putting the fixtures back up there. Gravity--thou art a cruel mistress.
So the point is that they can pull the second loop up to the person in the catwalk before removing the instrument from the first loop - with a good pulley they'd just have to make a quick pull on the loaded side to get the empty loop to run away up to the catwalk.
 
Mount a sheave (pulley) in an area open to the floor below. Use a rope twice as long as the floor to sheave distance. Tie a bowline on each end. Slip the loop of the bowline under the yoke then over the c-clamp. Close all shutters and make sure all knobs are tightened. Adjust the tilt-lock so the unit is pointing straight down. The people on the ground do all the heavy work. When the empty end gets to the catwalk, repeat with another unit. You never have to backtrack an empty rope.

Why put a pulley in?

The point of a pulley is that it has bearings so that friction is reduced when hauling. But when lowering, you WANT that friction. A pulley will allow the load to travel faster and mean you have to do more braking with your hands. That makes no sense. Pulley on the lift? Yes. Pulley on the lower? Can't understand it.

A better alternative is disposable paper coffee filters, virtually lint free. Second the 50/50 alcohol/water mix. Similarly, also clean the reflector.

Household window cleaner is surprisingly good for the glass parts.

Whilst you have the glass out, it's a good opportunity to apply some white lithium grease to the moving parts. Lithium Grease is better than WD40 as it's not runny and keeps things lubricated a very long time. Will keep the focussing nice and smooth.
 
Keeping a rope from going up is easier than keeping it from going down. Also WD40 is not a lubricant.

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If its not the right material you could easily damage your rope, by using a pully you no longer need to control direction of descent but just speed its also easier to keep your body vertical while lowering things, this is why as riggers we use pulleys to lower points back in by keeping your direction of slow going up you can use your body weight rather than sheer strength to control the object

Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk
 
Why put a pulley in?

The point of a pulley is that it has bearings so that friction is reduced when hauling. But when lowering, you WANT that friction. A pulley will allow the load to travel faster and mean you have to do more braking with your hands. That makes no sense. Pulley on the lift? Yes. Pulley on the lower? Can't understand it.



Household window cleaner is surprisingly good for the glass parts.

Whilst you have the glass out, it's a good opportunity to apply some white lithium grease to the moving parts. Lithium Grease is better than WD40 as it's not runny and keeps things lubricated a very long time. Will keep the focussing nice and smooth.

As far as the pulley goes, it makes it easier for someone on the ground to do the lowering and raising.

Glass cleaner is a no no. There are lenses with special coatings that the ammonia, and other harsh chemicals could damage or remove. It's safer to suggest alcohol for all fixtures that way they don't risk damage to the fixtures.
 
If its not the right material you could easily damage your rope

1) I'm not suggesting running it through a pile of broken glass. But over a catwalk handrail will induce a nice amount of friction which will aid your control on the rope.
2) You say you're a rigger but you've never come across devices which are designed to increase friction on a rope? What do you call a Figure of 8? You can install one of those anywhere that you can install a pulley, and it will do everything the pulley does in terms of direction and control, but will add friction, not reduce it.

by using a pully you no longer need to control direction of descent but just speed its also easier to keep your body vertical while lowering things

You can do that with a Fig 8 or a belay device... or at a push just a carabiner as-is.

this is why as riggers we use pulleys to lower points back in by keeping your direction of slow going up you can use your body weight rather than sheer strength to control the object

Well as a rigger, I put my rope over the beam. The nice hard edge of the beam gives you excellent friction and thus control for lowering points in. If you're beam-walking, you can't use a pulley really as there's nowhere to put it. Hand-over-hand on the haul, and over the beam edge as you drop it back in. Running the rope over the beam edge won't damage it, the D-d ratio will be fine, and a quick run of your fingers over the edge will reveal any sharpness. I think you will find that actually this is how most riggers control the lowering of points. That or the use of ratcheting sheaves (IE Harkens) where you get the friction in the sheave because it only runs in one direction.
 
As far as the pulley goes, it makes it easier for someone on the ground to do the lowering and raising.

See above. A pulley doesn't help them half as much as something which induces a bit of friction does.

Glass cleaner is a no no. There are lenses with special coatings that the ammonia, and other harsh chemicals could damage or remove. It's safer to suggest alcohol for all fixtures that way they don't risk damage to the fixtures.

Not always the case. A lot of window cleaners are designed to leave coatings intact, because a lot of modern windows are indeed coated. IPA on the other hand can just as easily penetrate glass coatings.

Best thing to do is contact the manufacturer of the lanterns and ask them. I have ETC and RJ in use and both companies recommend different products so it is worth asking. ETC said we could use Windolene Cream.

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Maybe in arena rigging but most if not all of what I do I have a place above me to dog a pulley. I'm very old school and haven't purchased anything but a rope, a pulley, a 3 foot spa set and a shackle. Granted most of my work I'm not in the air but on the ground.

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Maybe in arena rigging but most if not all of what I do I have a place above me to dog a pulley. I'm very old school and haven't purchased anything but a rope, a pulley, a 3 foot spa set and a shackle. Granted most of my work I'm not in the air but on the ground.

OK. No bad feelings but honestly as somebody who top rigs a lot, with frequent practice at dropping 1 and 2 ton motor chains in from 100 feet in the air - both with a place to put a pulley above your head, and not; I can accurately inform you that we try not to run ropes through pulleys on the down, because it gives us no resistance. All the braking you are getting is in the strength of your fingers, and you have to work your arms and hands hard to keep that resistance going. Use something like a Harken sheave or - as I said is common - running your rope straight over the edge of the beam gives you a surprising amount of resistance that hugely lightens the physical effort required from you. On a big show with a few hundred points to do, this can massively reduce your personal fatigue, and reduce the chances of an accident.

Give it a try next time you are lowering things in, I reckon you will like it. Try running the rope over the beam, using a ratchet sheave, or a Fig-8 instead of a pulley, see what works for you... But I guarantee you will prefer the friction of these methods to the lack of it that a pulley will (as it is designed to!) bring with it.

I mean - for ease of comparing a Fig-8 and a pulley for lowering equipment... imagine trying to abseil by clipping in with a pulley...
 
"Glass cleaner is a no no. There are lenses with special coatings that the ammonia, and other harsh chemicals could damage or remove. It's safer to suggest alcohol for all fixtures that way they don't risk damage to the fixtures."

These are just glass lenses... Just get in in contact with your lunch room and have them send the lenses thru thru their industrial dish washer or dish wash at home with Jet Dry in the tank. This will be the best cleaning of the lenses you can do. Interesting the above ETC cleaning and will look into - normally just Windex with Vineager used.

Onto other service call issues like lamp sockets.
 

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