Melting Twistlocks

I think the grade of the washer has to with it's resistence to deflection. The whole purpose of the washer is to distribute the force. If it bends too easily then the force will be localized to the center of the washer, which is the same as not having it there at all. At least that's my theory until somebody corrects me. Also, I prefer a spilt lock washer, or even better a Belleville, over a nylock. I've have too many bad experiences with nylocks galling up on me.

Ah' there is a wealth of questions in asking. Cone or Belleville amongst them or was this designed for lock washer, zinc or bronze if any lock washer at all. Cone, Belleville, serrated or not, internal, external, or spring lock washer in being it's own subject beyond ferrules and or expansion and contraction or strands of wire and wire type in stranding type settling.

As said, whole wealth of concepts.

No threadlocker at least in concept if in theory conductive type.
 
hey charc, if you wanna come to town i can show you how to fix cables. I have a whole bunch, stage pin, twist loc, pin & sleeve, cam, edison, xlr, and dmx to fix. If anyone else is in houston or around and wants to learn let me know. If you want to hook up some sub panels, transformers and run a crap load of EMT PLEASE let me know. I have more projects than i can handle. Today i learned i can overload the neutral conductor feeding our shop causing the voltage to jump to 150 then do one heck of a nasty power sag right after.
 
Yes the hardness of the washer has to do with it's ability to 'stay flat' under stress. Here is a picture of a non-hardened washer under load:
 

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My new touring system of conventional lights (mostly) is cabled with SOOW 12/3 and L5-20 twist-locs. I have always come up with a routine maintenance plan for my model trains, climbing/rescue equipment and now my lighting system.

Being a touring system for rent, you as the owner of the equipment have a responsibility to your rental clients to provide them with safe fixtures and equipment. I recently had to rent some lights from another local vendor and their fixtures didn't come with safety cables... go figure.

If you have a large system, you can break it down into... say a dozen fixtures to PM, or a dozen cables to check both ends for loose connections, signs of arcing, etc. While you check the electrical connections, you can check things like lense cleaning, lubricating yoke handles, checking for the presence of gel frames, safety cables and bulbs.

When it comes to dealing with 3 Phase power, I feel it better to pay a licensed electrician to check that over. Anything on a truss, flybar, etc. I am happy to check over on a ladder with fall protection.
 

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