Mounting I-Cues

Chris Pflieger

Well-Known Member
I've got some I-Cue units coming in and I'm wondering how most people mount them. For me, they're going on lekos that sit above the mid house, I haven't seen examples in this position, just ones mount above the stage.

Should I point the lekos toward the side then use the mirrors to bring the beam back toward the stage, or mount the lekos pointing down or maybe up or...
 
I have 4 I-cues on the second FOH bar above mid house and they are pointed up (at about 65 to 75 degrees) and the I-cues are mounted on them and work very well from there.
 
I use mine pointed up so any light bleed gets buried in the ceiling. You can can swap pan and tilt on the IQ itself, or depending on the console that you are using, you can swap those parameters on the board as well. I leave them powered up for the season, but mostly because of the way the power was distributed in my space. With no fan, I don't think it's bad for the unit--at least I have't suffered any ill effects after a decade of use.
 
Oh Ok i don't know that board but you should have no problems with it and pan and tilt can be changed at the I-cue or at the board so it will work for you any way you want
 
I've got some I-Cue units coming in and I'm wondering how most people mount them. For me, they're going on lekos that sit above the mid house, I haven't seen examples in this position, just ones mount above the stage.

Should I point the lekos toward the side then use the mirrors to bring the beam back toward the stage, or mount the lekos pointing down or maybe up or...
There is no one and only CORRECT answer, let's just say it depends. If FOH is an enclosed ceiling cove with catwalk, you may not have the clearance to hang the ellipsoidal facing down and still shoot the beam out over the edge and towards the stage. If the FOH pipes are just that, open pipes suspended from the ceiling with access via lift, boom or ladder, straight down MAY be an option. If the FOH pipes are exposed but the ceiling is low, or the raked seating is high, hanging the ellipsoidal facing down MAY lead to clearance issues with tall patrons &/or annoying teenagers trying to prove they're Mr. Macho as they leap to whack your mirror. Having said all that, facing MOST ellipsoidals straight down often equates to the lamp and socket being subjected to even more heat.
Moving on. With a single unit, I've mounted the fixture facing sideways on an FOH pipe such that the center line of the mirror is on the center line of the stage / auditorium placing the apparent center line of the source on the center line of the space. When using two units, I've hung them face to face on either side of center such that the pair of mirrors are as close to each other, and to the center line, as possible. I do this in an effort to have them both occupy the exact same space which, of course, is impossible. By doing this, it works quite well for those times when you want a full body shot in one color, and a half body in a second color, both tracking the same performer. You can always play address assignment games to swap pan and tilt, or mirror image pan &/or tilt to keep the direction movement of the actual beam from 'messing with your mind'.
Optimistically I haven't caused too much confusion.
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard.
 
Also they do have blind spots, especially if you have a color scroller. I have a director who likes to put actors in the house so mine ar mounted for best coverage of both house and stage. I was lucky to have a nondim.
The stepping motors do use power to hold position so if I am not using them I like to power them off.
 
An update - I got two, and tested them, but haven't hung them up. I found out that the DMX512 cable installed only has pins 1,2,3 connected so I have to do some soldering to get pins 4&5 so I can get power up to these units.

And it's not too hard to edit the fixtures in Vista to swap pan and tilt.
 
Don't I-Cues use 4 pin xlr connectors, like color scrollers do.
 
Follow me - I have power supply at the dimmers that injects +24VDC onto pins 4&5. This cable goes to the bar where I can attach an adapter to run pins 4&5 to pin 4 of an XLR4. The reason was to use the existing XLR5 infrastructure - which I thought had every connector wired up.

Of course the danger is that someone will connect that XLR5 directly to a device that's not tolerate of common mode voltage on undefined function pins - I'll leave good notes.
 
Follow me - I have power supply at the dimmers that injects +24VDC onto pins 4&5. This cable goes to the bar where I can attach an adapter to run pins 4&5 to pin 4 of an XLR4. The reason was to use the existing XLR5 infrastructure - which I thought had every connector wired up.

I don't think this will work very well. The wire gauge on DMX cable is typically #22. The wire gave for the power carrying wires on scroller cable is #14. Depending on the cable run, you will probably have too much voltage drop in the cable to get things to work dependably. Additionally if you ever need to put a DMX splitter in the rig, things would get interesting.
 
There is a splitter at the dimmer rack before this run strictly for that bar.

The run is about 75 feet or less. I figure with two I-Cues, the draw is 1.4 amps (per spec) and the voltage drop will be about 2-3 volts (22 awg x 2). With a 27VDC supply, I'll be right about at the 24VDC sweetspot. (manual indicates +/- 10% is OK).
 
but the device (Icue) only has 4 pin input/output.
Of course the danger is that someone will connect that XLR5 directly to a device that's not tolerate of common mode voltage on undefined function pins - I'll leave good notes.
It would be best if you converted this to a 4 pin for the very reason that you state here.
you or someone else could toast a whole universe of expensive fixtures. you would be very lucky if it was just one device that got smoked.
It will be very bad to let the magic smoke out of a mover that you are depending on.

be sure to heat shrink each solder joint that is not data on the back of any and all connectors
These power/Data cables must be 4pin only and must be in top notch condition because of this danger.
your entire rig is in danger without opto-isolation of this 24v power.
 
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I don't think this will work very well. The wire gauge on DMX cable is typically #22. The wire gave for the power carrying wires on scroller cable is #14. Depending on the cable run, you will probably have too much voltage drop in the cable to get things to work dependably. Additionally if you ever need to put a DMX splitter in the rig, things would get interesting.
This is correct. DO NOT try to run power though a 5-pin cable. Aside from the 22awg wires not being rated for it, there are so many other bad things that could happen, as @venuetech mentioned. Use a proper 24VDC power supply and proper 4-pin cable. Do it right, or don't do it at all.
I can attach an adapter to run pins 4&5 to pin 4 of an XLR4
This is just a terrible idea!!! Think for a second about what would happen if you connected the +24VDC and -VDC together onto one pin, then supplied power.
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Okay, that was more than enough time. Not good, right?! If you don't know the answer, I don't think you should be doing something as simple as connecting a cable to a power supply and a device.
 
I've got bins of old 4-pin cable sitting in the back of my warehouse. I'm sure there are a few rental houses around you in the same situation that would be ecstatic to get rid of it at a fantastic price. Call around, you might be surprised.
 

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