Moving head general maintenance

Enfield

Member
Hi all

I have a few questions. I'm wondering what the rules are when regards to moving heads. Can I leave them plugged into power all the time and just make sure that I douse the lamps. Or do I have to remove power so they last longer?

Thanks.
 
Much the same question comes up with computers. The real question is: Will a switch-mode power supply last longer running 24/7 or being turned on and off as needed?
Many debated this, but service history reveals that being left on 24/7 causes the supply to die at a younger age. Not only do the caps dry out, but the supply is subject to receiving all those little transient spikes that come in via the power cord. The supplies are protected with MOVs which clamp the spikes, but each time it clamps, part of it dies. Eventually, the MOVs are simply open circuited and no longer protect the supply. Some have felt that the turn-on transit is more damaging, but the truth is a switch-mode supply is turning on and off about 200 thousand times a second anyhow. The primary supply in a mover is the switch-mode supply, so all of these reasons remain the same. There is also the matter of the fans. Bearing life is primarily a factor of how many rotations the shaft has made.
 
Much the same question comes up with computers. The real question is: Will a switch-mode power supply last longer running 24/7 or being turned on and off as needed?
Many debated this, but service history reveals that being left on 24/7 causes the supply to die at a younger age. Not only do the caps dry out, but the supply is subject to receiving all those little transient spikes that come in via the power cord. The supplies are protected with MOVs which clamp the spikes, but each time it clamps, part of it dies. Eventually, the MOVs are simply open circuited and no longer protect the supply. Some have felt that the turn-on transit is more damaging, but the truth is a switch-mode supply is turning on and off about 200 thousand times a second anyhow. The primary supply in a mover is the switch-mode supply, so all of these reasons remain the same. There is also the matter of the fans. Bearing life is primarily a factor of how many rotations the shaft has made.

Thanks for your answer.

I love your signature!
 
Let me check here... are you talking about leaving them on 24/7 with the lamps struck but doused?
That's a bad idea. - kills lamp life and increases greatly the airconditioning bill!
Destrike the lamps by the appropriate method for that fixture, often a DMX command.

But in terms of whether you kill the mains, that will depend on the level of difficulty associated with doing so. If you have DMX relays or some other way that it's a simple process, then it's probably wise.
If it means a walk up onto a catwalk, perhaps the cost of labour to do so doesn't make sense...
 
Let me check here... are you talking about leaving them on 24/7 with the lamps struck but doused?
That's a bad idea. - kills lamp life and increases greatly the airconditioning bill!
Destrike the lamps by the appropriate method for that fixture, often a DMX command.

But in terms of whether you kill the mains, that will depend on the level of difficulty associated with doing so. If you have DMX relays or some other way that it's a simple process, then it's probably wise.
If it means a walk up onto a catwalk, perhaps the cost of labour to do so doesn't make sense...


I mean the lamp will be doused but the fixture itself with be plugged into an outlet that will always have power, meaning that the fans inside will still be on and any other component that only runs while plugged in will do so 24/7 because I don't have a way to take away power aside from flipping a switch at the breaker.
 
I flip my breakers for my movers in my current space. The previous space I was in was a college so we had a wall switch because I am sure they didn't want us flipping breakers. I have always shut them down I feel it saves on fan life and all of the other components.
 
I'm defining dousing in the same way as the wiki defines a douser.
So that means that the lamp is electrically on, but its light output is being mechanically contained by an iris or the like.

I think you're meaning that you've powered down the lamp when you say it's doused?
 
I'm defining dousing in the same way as the wiki defines a douser.
So that means that the lamp is electrically on, but its light output is being mechanically contained by an iris or the like.

I think you're meaning that you've powered down the lamp when you say it's doused?

I'm sorry.
Yes when I say doused I meant that the lamp is powered down.
 
I'm defining dousing in the same way as the wiki defines a douser. ...
Geez, Chris, don't be so pedantic.:shifty:
When discussing arc lamps, "to douse" doesn't mean "close the douser", (which on moving lights is almost always called "the dimmer," even though it's mechanical and not electronic). "Followspot one, douse out," however, does mean to stop making light on the stage. Clear as mud? Gud.

I'll flip the breaker then. I just wanted to have some backup from others to tell my boss why I'm flipping the breaker and why it's important.
Tell 'em the ETC Rigging General Manager said so! Although speaking specifically about LED fixtures,
Just a small suggestion.....turn off the power to the fixtures. We should all be aware that when we remove data to our LED fixtures, and leave power on, the fixtures are still running. The power supplies are energized and we all know that electronics have a limited useful life.

We're all spoiled by dimmers since when we turn off the console, all the tungsten [and other] sources turn off. Only the dimmer electronics stay active which is 1-6 devices per rack. The same is not true for LED fixtures.

So I've been on a little bit of a campaign, secretly [not much of a campaign then I guess], to let people know that their LED fixtures, MLs, scrollers, foggers, etc, will all last longer if you remove power from them. We have such a large investment in these devices, it only makes sense to have them around for as long as possible.

Sorry if this blatantly obvious...maybe it can help someone....
See also http://www.controlbooth.com/threads/making-the-best-of-hid-lamp-hours.33008/#post-289902 and the threads linked therein.
 
You might look in to adding a few DMX relays if this is a long term install. Manually flipping breakers isn't necessarily good for [the breakers] over time.
 
Be aware that a "relay module" is different than setting a dimmer to "relay mode." You want a module that actually contains mechanical relays that break the circuit much like a switch. The last thing you want is a mover plugged into a dimmer. Even at full, a dimmer introduces some pretty nasty noise into the circuit. There is a minimum voltage that must be across an SSR in a dimmer before it conducts. This "notch" in the waveform is there even when the dimmer is in relay mode or set to 100%
 
Another argument for killing power -- so long as your devices' fans are on, any dust in the air is getting sucked into those devices and gakking up your optics and electronics. Heat is generally considered the number one enemy of electronics. Dust on top of electronics impedes their ability to dissipate heat. Enough heat buildup and the electronics will fail prematurely.
 

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