But we like to argue.
need to buy cheap console to rent out...
- Thread starterDaveslights
- Start date
I've heard the built in libraries on it leave a lot to be wanted, heve you ever come across this this issue with it?
Hughesie
Well-Known Member
yeah, did i mention it smelt like cigarettes..... or maybe it was just on fire, anyway their "delivery people" weren't the best either, it was dumped at the door of loading dock (without a road case) and it was raining there not the smartest people.
light lab they WERE called, but now they no longer answer phones or have a website, so i think it's now ok to mention the company name
But lamphead, the Smartfade ML isn't less then $1000, despite it being a great console. Didn't even cross my mind, keep forgetting that there is a Smartfade ML now.
Also, I was just merely going off of Hughesie89 mentioning a Hog 1000. I never stated that a Hog 500 can be had for less then $1000, just that its a great board and cheaper then a Hog 1000. I could've said get an Hog IPC or Hog 2, I just mentioned it because it might be wroth it to save up a little more and go a little bigger. It might not at the same time. I know I have been looking at consoles for a while and saving for a while myself. I have looked at everything, from a Compulite Dlite, to an Event 416, to a Hog 1000, to a Light Palette Classic, and a Hog PC.
An Event 408 would also be good, but very hard to find in the States. It can probably be had for around a grand or a little more used too. Based off of the same OS as a Hog 500/1000, but has 24/48 bank of two scene preset for easier time controlling conventionals.
Also, I was just merely going off of Hughesie89 mentioning a Hog 1000. I never stated that a Hog 500 can be had for less then $1000, just that its a great board and cheaper then a Hog 1000. I could've said get an Hog IPC or Hog 2, I just mentioned it because it might be wroth it to save up a little more and go a little bigger. It might not at the same time. I know I have been looking at consoles for a while and saving for a while myself. I have looked at everything, from a Compulite Dlite, to an Event 416, to a Hog 1000, to a Light Palette Classic, and a Hog PC.
An Event 408 would also be good, but very hard to find in the States. It can probably be had for around a grand or a little more used too. Based off of the same OS as a Hog 500/1000, but has 24/48 bank of two scene preset for easier time controlling conventionals.
Hughesie
Well-Known Member
yeah, thanks i did make a oversight, i forgot about the 500
Okay, I've finally been dragged into this thread, or maybe i've just read every other one. Anyhow, isn't there a version of the Frog line that would fit the OP's requirements? Thin-Frog, mini-frog, Tadpole, or whatever? I've never used any of them, but I know people who have and who like them. Just make sure you're not wearing toad shoes OR Croc's when operating one!
Daveslights
Member
I've seen lots of Hog's come through the venue I work at, lots of them work fine. Most of the time it's a Hog 500 of which I've never seen them go down or seen the LD have any problem with them. I have however seen several Hog 1000s and Hog IIs have to be switched with the back up console, the Hog II backup was also bad. I think it has more to do with how they have been maintained and how long they've been around.
That being said, Learning to program a Hog is something I want to do, so - is learning to program and operate a Jands Hog 250 a good start to moving up to better Hogs?
and If I programed the 250 for someone to use, would it be fairly easy for someone with some lighting experience and motivation, to use it?
Keep in mind that I won't really be renting to random people who have never thought about lighting before. It will either be me using it, someone I have trained, like an intern, or someone who is an LD who could be shown quickly.
Also, I can probably go up to $1500-$2000 for the console now.
That being said, Learning to program a Hog is something I want to do, so - is learning to program and operate a Jands Hog 250 a good start to moving up to better Hogs?
and If I programed the 250 for someone to use, would it be fairly easy for someone with some lighting experience and motivation, to use it?
Keep in mind that I won't really be renting to random people who have never thought about lighting before. It will either be me using it, someone I have trained, like an intern, or someone who is an LD who could be shown quickly.
Also, I can probably go up to $1500-$2000 for the console now.
soundlight
Well-Known Member
I just noticed your new price range (1500-2000), and I have the perfect solution for you: NSI MLC16D. It's the board that the Magic260 is based directly off of, except that I'm pretty sure that the MLC16D has 32 channels per fixture available. It's an incredibly easy board to learn, and can be had for under $1200 from the right dealer.
Edit: looking back, I know that you shunned this controller in your first post, but it's really a solid board, and there are some of these things that have been running every weekend for 8 or more years and are still working flawlessly. It's really a good option, and can be programmed in an incredibly small amount of time. It's just so intuitive, from my experience.
And for an extremely lowball price recommendation, a Chauvet DMX-70. Up to 12 fixtures, 32 channels each, and a good set of features. I'm planning on getting one of these soon as a controller for light shows in the light lab, because the current light lab controller is an old manual preset board...
Edit: looking back, I know that you shunned this controller in your first post, but it's really a solid board, and there are some of these things that have been running every weekend for 8 or more years and are still working flawlessly. It's really a good option, and can be programmed in an incredibly small amount of time. It's just so intuitive, from my experience.
And for an extremely lowball price recommendation, a Chauvet DMX-70. Up to 12 fixtures, 32 channels each, and a good set of features. I'm planning on getting one of these soon as a controller for light shows in the light lab, because the current light lab controller is an old manual preset board...
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You can, you just have to trick the console. For example, Fixture 1 would be 16 channels, Fixture 2 would be 2 channels, so channels 1 and 2 on fixture two would be channels 17 and 18. Moving down the line, Fixture 3 would be your second physical fixture, again 16 channels, and Fixture 4 would be 2 channels again for channels 17 and 18 on your second physical fixture.
I do this a lot with the 260. Down at the Ocean Drive in Sea Isle City, I have a set of Octo Strips, a 4 channel dimmer pack, a LED strobe, and 4 Vision 250s. Fixture 1 on the console is 16 channels and controls my Octo Strips, dimmer, and strobe. Fixture 2 is my 1st Vision 250, Fixture 3 is my 2nd, so on and so on.
In using the Magic 260, I find it is only really good for controlling like fixtures. For example, all dimmers only, all LEDs only, all movers only. The fact that you can't run two scenes separate of each other makes it more of a pain when mixing and matching fixtures.
I do this a lot with the 260. Down at the Ocean Drive in Sea Isle City, I have a set of Octo Strips, a 4 channel dimmer pack, a LED strobe, and 4 Vision 250s. Fixture 1 on the console is 16 channels and controls my Octo Strips, dimmer, and strobe. Fixture 2 is my 1st Vision 250, Fixture 3 is my 2nd, so on and so on.
In using the Magic 260, I find it is only really good for controlling like fixtures. For example, all dimmers only, all LEDs only, all movers only. The fact that you can't run two scenes separate of each other makes it more of a pain when mixing and matching fixtures.
Daveslights
Member
Soundlight, I think I'm going with the MLC16. It just seems easier all around. "tricking" the magic 260 would work, but I just don't want to have to explain that to someone over the phone when something goes wrong!
Do you know a dealer where I can get that for under $1200? I found it for just under $1300 but that's the best I've found so far
Do you know a dealer where I can get that for under $1200? I found it for just under $1300 but that's the best I've found so far
highschooltech
Active Member
You have to patch it as two fixtures. The Magic 260 comes with a limited library of lights so you have to use generic setups which have up to 16 Channels. Then at the end of that you would have another generic 1 or 2 channel fixture. Another thing to do is set the TBs to TB reduced protocol on the light which makes it a 14 channel fixture. Don't know about your other one.
soundlight
Well-Known Member
Thing 1: Call BillESC, see what he can do for you.
If he can't give you under 1200, call Northern Sound and Lighting (www.northernsound.net). I know that they can give you a really good price.
Let me guess, you had an external keyboard plugged in? If you did the keyboard is bad. I had the same problem with a Hog 1000 from a company. Turned out it was the keyboard. The crash problem is due to the trim on the cpu not being set properly. Any real jands tech would know these tricks. The losing show data is due to the batteries in the console being dead. Its a typical problem with any digital console.
Search around for the Elekralite CP-100. Its a awsome console. The syntax is setup as to you tell it a command just as if you were to say it. Add dimmer 24 to submaster 1.1 (it then patches dimmer 24 to dimmer submaster on page one channel one) Same with moving lights. It has a nice size fixture library built in. The CP-10 should do all the samethings for you. You can find those on e-bay for around 50-100 bucks. If you have any elekralite problems norman over at group one in NY is the one who designed it and is more than willing to help. I have 4 CP-100's that i use for clubs and for lots of one off shows. You can also program everything to faders and it will crossfade IBFC for you. You can also program everything to a cue list and run the show cue to cue.
Lemonjello
Member
Dave
I've been using the Magic 260 for about a year and I have issues with it too. There is no easy way to label channels on the screen, it delays when a fixture is selected and only pages 4 channels at a time. when you select another fixture, it flips back to first four channels.
it has a 5 increment step and a fine 1 increment step and is a pain to work the levels esp. on rgb fixtures with the wheels.
the stick of joy for movers is "return to center" type and is a little steppy. The invert function works well but wiggs out when fixture is also in invert mode.
(something to watch out for)
the fixture sticks if I set a pan/tilt limit and I swing the joystick to a limit.
Really annoying...
the first channel on each fixture is patched to the master fader and when fader is moved, it takes over the screen, blocking view of other channel.
I use the magic 260 for wedding and small events, almost all are "one off's" In my opinion, not the best console for the job.
I use a mix of rgb led, conventionals on dimmers, some color changers and movers for dance etc. Good planning helps group and zone fixtures and I can't stand a messy, constantly changing color palette for a wedding, too busy.
My next board will be the smartfade ML, huge fixture library and can be programmed offline and hopefully soon to have smartsoft ML. It seems like a great console and for @2k with two universes, short learning curve, and great support will handle anything I can throw at it.
Edit: you will lose those "extra" channels. you can still get them, Example:
you could put your 18 ch fixture on fixt. 1 with as a 16 ch generic (ch001-016)
and fixt. 2 as a single channel as (ch017) and fixt. 3 as (ch018)
or fixt. 2 as 3ch with start as (ch017) and use only first two encoders to send data
since it only has 1,3,4,6,8,16 ch generic profiles
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Daveslights
Member
Yikes! Thanks Lemonjello. I think I"m going with the MLC16, no surprises.
I can't find a price for a Smartfade ML, do you know how much they go for? Kind of interested in that one
I can't find a price for a Smartfade ML, do you know how much they go for? Kind of interested in that one
Daveslights
Member
NSI MLC16? Ha, we have one sitting in the supply closet here, used maybe a half dozen times. I don't think it has been used for 10 years though.
Does it work? Would you sell it?
