Nightowl Stage Lighting

Hi Scott,

I'm glad that you're not afraid to defend your product, though you appear to have taken what I've said personally and that was not the intent of my comments. Also, I am sorry to hear of your loss.

The point that I'm trying to raise for discussion isn't so much about the actual product that you sell as it is the nature of purchasing from "boutique" dealers within the industry. The only speculation I make is regarding the output of the lights - everything else is fairly objective and doesn't require ownership to point out. Please consider the following as constructive conversation and not a personal attack on you or your company in any way.

1) What I mean by a "real" warranty is that I can I deliver a defective product to any authorized repair center (or even a dealer in some cases) and have the unit repaired or replaced in a timely manner. I'm not saying that you don't do this, but as is the case with most boutique dealers, you only operate out of one shop in the entire country (as far as I can tell). That means any fixture with any issues is making the trip up and back to Kentucky and not in service making me money. Yes, I understand the need of having working spares and whatnot, but that's besides the point. No matter what, I'm in it for the long haul with you since I would no longer consider these fixtures to be at the disposable price point. In a few cases dealers/manufacturers have even overnighted replacement parts to me so that I don't have to pull the equipment in question out of service. In other cases I have been given loaner units while my defective unit was under repair. Given that you import straight from China, how many parts and working spares do you keep on hand for situations like these? Buying lights from users on AliExpress also claim to carry a warranty, though I have my doubts as to what the real value of that is. Let me ask this question another way... What if I decide to rent out a dozen or so lights that I purchase from you and they come back destroyed? No, of course that's not covered under warranty, but...had I gone name-brand, one call to a dealer and I'll have replacement units overnighted to me and they'll be ready to enter service alongside the rest of my inventory the next day. Do you stock enough inventory in the United States to be able to offer that kind of service?

2) I'm glad to hear that the next revision of your website will allow for the downloading of fixture manuals and specifications. Being a business owner myself I understand that maintaining a website can be challenging and things that seem simple are usually far from it! As you can read further up in this thread, I'm not against purchasing product from you. In fact, I'm quite the opposite. I've been occasionally visiting your website for the past few years, yet hardly anything has changed on it - at least the product area that I always go to. To me, I find it hard to believe that I'm buying anything better than ebay quality lights when I can't even find a manual for what I'm buying or see what the DMX parameters are! Your website also seems to have mapping issues, which is slightly concerning to a prospective buyer. It's nice that you were able to provide this information to someone in need, but I hardly consider it "service" to provide resources that should be publicly available to anyone who might need it. You have some good advice already about how to possibly make this work, so I think it'd really be a boost to your credibility to get this going! I'm sure plenty of us would be happy to lend input if you run into trouble.

3) I still have my doubts, but that would be speculative. What I will say about product consistency is this - with most major brands I can buy or rent product anywhere in the country (or world in some cases) and rest assured what I get will match with what's already in my inventory. Yes, it's the right of the manufacturer to make changes to a unit as they see fit and once in a while I'll come across a matching unit with a few cosmetic differences, but generally speaking I don't have to worry about mismatching fixture performance issues in this situation (also see my points in paragraph 1 about needing to quickly deploy a replacement).

4) The issue of fan noise was directed more to RideTheSquirrel who was considering such lights which have fans. I see that you offer several IP65 fixtures as well, which are the ones I've been eyeing for some time. The thing is though, 2 or 3 years ago that was a major selling point. Now more and more fixtures run silently and/or are IP65 and still quite affordable. Most also offer a much higher frequency than the 300Hz you list.

5) Any response would just be more speculation on my end, so I'll let that one be...

Not mentioned earlier are rental and resale prospects. This would be highly dependent on the intended use by the buyer, but it generally helps to stock inventory that people have heard of, let alone if needing any rider acceptance.

Also not mentioned are any acceptable listings of your products such MET/ETL/UL/etc.

You're welcome to not agree with me, though most of what I'm saying here isn't opinion. The fact is that over the past couple of years, ebay lights are getting better and cheaper all the time. Two years ago, it was hard to find something decent for under $100. Today, there are plenty of reasonable direct-from-China options that can be had for a fraction of that! No, they won't stand up to most name-brand fixtures, but for $35 I wouldn't expect it to! At the same time, name-brand manufacturers are also pushing the lower end of their inventory with very respectable options. Since you also sell name-brand fixtures, I know you can agree with what I say when I mention that your prices aren't too far off from the dealer cost of equivalent budget-name-brand fixtures.

Scott, I'm not attacking your company at all! Believe me, I'd love to find a seller that is able to offer quality fixtures at low prices! Aren't we all? The hesitation I have relating to everything above is what goes along with buying from a boutique dealer. That's not a bad thing, and this industry has several such manufacturers that have carved out a nice niche for themselves. The catch is, to make the baggage of sorts that accompanies buying from one worth it, they have to offer something that no one else sells, or, offer their product at a steep discount while still delivering acceptable quality and reliability. Nothing personal, but I just don't see that here when I'd only be saving 10 or 15% from a mainstream supplier. Seeing essentially crickets when the question is asked of who has actually uses your product, I'd dare say that I'm not alone in my view of the situation. And yes, I do think I have every right to chime into a discussion involving a supplier that I was interested in purchasing from... Thanks for your attention.
 
To all of those who are interested: I'm a "proof is in the pudding" kind of guy like the majority of everyone else. I have 12 brand new 24x18 RGBAW-UV units coming to me in flight cases as soon as I finalize everything with Scott tomorrow in the AM. I have decided that as my way to return a small portion on the abundance of information that these forums possess; I will be doing an in depth review all the way from the unwrapping of actual instruments themselves to the shipping times and customer service.

I don't know if anybody else on this forum has purchased from them before so I think I'll be the first to provide an insight into the NightOwl brand company that is based off of my actual dealings as opposed to speculations.

I'll keep you posted and likely start it's own thread.
 
Hi Scott,

I'm glad that you're not afraid to defend your product, though you appear to have taken what I've said personally and that was not the intent of my comments. Also, I am sorry to hear of your loss.

The point that I'm trying to raise for discussion isn't so much about the actual product that you sell as it is the nature of purchasing from "boutique" dealers within the industry. The only speculation I make is regarding the output of the lights - everything else is fairly objective and doesn't require ownership to point out. Please consider the following as constructive conversation and not a personal attack on you or your company in any way.

1) What I mean by a "real" warranty is that I can I deliver a defective product to any authorized repair center (or even a dealer in some cases) and have the unit repaired or replaced in a timely manner. I'm not saying that you don't do this, but as is the case with most boutique dealers, you only operate out of one shop in the entire country (as far as I can tell). That means any fixture with any issues is making the trip up and back to Kentucky and not in service making me money. Yes, I understand the need of having working spares and whatnot, but that's besides the point. No matter what, I'm in it for the long haul with you since I would no longer consider these fixtures to be at the disposable price point. In a few cases dealers/manufacturers have even overnighted replacement parts to me so that I don't have to pull the equipment in question out of service. In other cases I have been given loaner units while my defective unit was under repair. Given that you import straight from China, how many parts and working spares do you keep on hand for situations like these? Buying lights from users on AliExpress also claim to carry a warranty, though I have my doubts as to what the real value of that is. Let me ask this question another way... What if I decide to rent out a dozen or so lights that I purchase from you and they come back destroyed? No, of course that's not covered under warranty, but...had I gone name-brand, one call to a dealer and I'll have replacement units overnighted to me and they'll be ready to enter service alongside the rest of my inventory the next day. Do you stock enough inventory in the United States to be able to offer that kind of service?

2) I'm glad to hear that the next revision of your website will allow for the downloading of fixture manuals and specifications. Being a business owner myself I understand that maintaining a website can be challenging and things that seem simple are usually far from it! As you can read further up in this thread, I'm not against purchasing product from you. In fact, I'm quite the opposite. I've been occasionally visiting your website for the past few years, yet hardly anything has changed on it - at least the product area that I always go to. To me, I find it hard to believe that I'm buying anything better than ebay quality lights when I can't even find a manual for what I'm buying or see what the DMX parameters are! Your website also seems to have mapping issues, which is slightly concerning to a prospective buyer. It's nice that you were able to provide this information to someone in need, but I hardly consider it "service" to provide resources that should be publicly available to anyone who might need it. You have some good advice already about how to possibly make this work, so I think it'd really be a boost to your credibility to get this going! I'm sure plenty of us would be happy to lend input if you run into trouble.

3) I still have my doubts, but that would be speculative. What I will say about product consistency is this - with most major brands I can buy or rent product anywhere in the country (or world in some cases) and rest assured what I get will match with what's already in my inventory. Yes, it's the right of the manufacturer to make changes to a unit as they see fit and once in a while I'll come across a matching unit with a few cosmetic differences, but generally speaking I don't have to worry about mismatching fixture performance issues in this situation (also see my points in paragraph 1 about needing to quickly deploy a replacement).

4) The issue of fan noise was directed more to RideTheSquirrel who was considering such lights which have fans. I see that you offer several IP65 fixtures as well, which are the ones I've been eyeing for some time. The thing is though, 2 or 3 years ago that was a major selling point. Now more and more fixtures run silently and/or are IP65 and still quite affordable. Most also offer a much higher frequency than the 300Hz you list.

5) Any response would just be more speculation on my end, so I'll let that one be...

Not mentioned earlier are rental and resale prospects. This would be highly dependent on the intended use by the buyer, but it generally helps to stock inventory that people have heard of, let alone if needing any rider acceptance.

Also not mentioned are any acceptable listings of your products such MET/ETL/UL/etc.

You're welcome to not agree with me, though most of what I'm saying here isn't opinion. The fact is that over the past couple of years, ebay lights are getting better and cheaper all the time. Two years ago, it was hard to find something decent for under $100. Today, there are plenty of reasonable direct-from-China options that can be had for a fraction of that! No, they won't stand up to most name-brand fixtures, but for $35 I wouldn't expect it to! At the same time, name-brand manufacturers are also pushing the lower end of their inventory with very respectable options. Since you also sell name-brand fixtures, I know you can agree with what I say when I mention that your prices aren't too far off from the dealer cost of equivalent budget-name-brand fixtures.

Scott, I'm not attacking your company at all! Believe me, I'd love to find a seller that is able to offer quality fixtures at low prices! Aren't we all? The hesitation I have relating to everything above is what goes along with buying from a boutique dealer. That's not a bad thing, and this industry has several such manufacturers that have carved out a nice niche for themselves. The catch is, to make the baggage of sorts that accompanies buying from one worth it, they have to offer something that no one else sells, or, offer their product at a steep discount while still delivering acceptable quality and reliability. Nothing personal, but I just don't see that here when I'd only be saving 10 or 15% from a mainstream supplier. Seeing essentially crickets when the question is asked of who has actually uses your product, I'd dare say that I'm not alone in my view of the situation. And yes, I do think I have every right to chime into a discussion involving a supplier that I was interested in purchasing from... Thanks for your attention.

Hello,

First of all, thank you for your well thought out response, I do appreciate it. Also, please do not mistake my direct tone to mean offense was taken, not at all. We do not get much feedback from non customers, so this is VERY helpful to us. We just have to make it clear when people who have never used our stuff comment on us that we make that very clear.

First a few words to each of your counterpoints.

1) Ali Baba. Yes the factories offer warranties, but for almost all of them what they call a warranty is simply shipping you parts for one year then you are done. Also, if you buy two different items it will probably be from two different factories, with different policies. We back our products with a real fix or replace warranty you cant get from China because it is more expensive to ship a light back than to simply buy another one, and if Chinese customs seizes your shipment, you lose it with no recourse because they will create a bill that is more than the value of the items just because they can. That has happened to us several times when we send lights back for inspection to verify a problem. As for loaners, we retain a decent number of our popular products, and we loan them all the time. We also have a deal with DHL where we can ship from the factory in 2 or 3 days to anywhere in the US. Part of the value added with us is that we deal with all of that, Chinese Customs, US customs, Damage Claims, etc. and we do whatever we can to keep our customers up and running. Hell, Bandit only has 3 locations, and one is fairly new. High End is factory serviced out of just two reliable locations, Creative and their factory in Austin, anywhere else has to del with one or the other anyway.

Also, in certain cases, we honor the warranty after 1 year if circumstances warrant it. We have one big customer that did not use a proper power source and cooked his power supplies (using a standard breaker is a no no for ANY LED unswitched stage light. We replaced them all at our cost with free shipping and helped him spec out a proper dry relay switching system to control the power to the lights and gave him a good discount on that. We have another much smaller customer, 16 pars, who had a console power supply fail and it overvolted the DMX taking out all the DMX chips in our pars we sold him. We did the same and gave him a opto isolator for free so it would not happen again. We know who butters our bread, and a high level of after the sale service and the products themselves has led to enough word of mouth we don't advertise.

2) Our Website has been an issue for a while, we have over 100 detailed listings in our eBay store, and keeping them both in sync is the big project around here. A new version is just around the corner though.

As for the rider comment, we are a production company and we do national acts all the time, and several dozen other production companies do the same with lights purchased from us. Rider acceptance has not been an issue other than guaranteeing spares. In fact, rental houses are our biggest customer base because the price points using our gear are more marketable.

That being said, just a few key points about us, first we manufacture to order, if you need 5 pin DMX 45 degree pink pars, that's what we do, manufacture to your specs. If you want a higher frequency power supply, that's an option, barn doors, W-DMX, Powercon, pigtails...whatever, we can do that in almost any combination. Need 8 bit dimming to match existing pars? no problem. Same with the moving heads, anything that needs to be an option is an option. You can't get this from Ali Baba, or form a lot of "Name Brand" suppliers. We don't buy shipping container loads of last years equipment and sell it at a low margin to clear the inventory. That's the other guys.

As for pricing, when you look at the prices on eBay or the website, you are seeing single unit pricing. Anything over 8 units you get a volume discount, at 20 units the discount gets pretty big, at 50 its HUGE. We cater to small orders, but you cant use those prices to determine what a real order would cost. Also and if you just use PayPal and not eBay you get another 7%. If you pay direct you get 10% off "List" in addition to volume discounts. Shipping discounts are possible too, for instance shipments to our customers in Hawaii cost us about 20% less and in those cases we pass that on even though shipping is free.

As for Certification, all our equipment is CE/ROHS certified which is fine as we ship all over the world and CE, the European standard and the most common in China due to Hong Kong being British for so long. is accepted everywhere.

We go to great lengths to differentiate ourselves, but we do not advertise except for eBay if that counts, and we do not participate in LDI or any other trade show. Maybe in the future, but not now. We are concentrating on managing our quick growth without all that right now.

Before I end this I want to make something very clear, you simply CAN NOT assume a "name brand" product is actually sourced from that company any more, you have to make sure. According to the manager of our factory in Guangzhou (Stage Light City), where 90% of all stage lighting in the world is manufactured, 60% of all name brand gear is counterfeit. For example, Robe moving heads. I can get them all day long and all of them are legacy or knock off. Legacy means Robe used a Chinese factory to manufacture model X for so many units. After the order is filled, guess what, they just keep on making them. Want a Robe 1200 Watt Spot? My price is 1100 with a lamp! It's NOT Robe though it just says Robe nd it looks just like a 2010 model, what a coincidence! Same for Sharpies, Avolite consoles, and many other brands. And I wont even go into lights with Chinese LEDs, total crap.

Anyway, thank you again for your input, we here at Nightowl want and need constructive criticism and hard questions to make sure our message is getting out there correctly. As to why we are not discussed more here, I cant answer that other than we have never had a customer mention this forum, or any forum for that matter when talking about how they came to us. I really don't know what to make of that. We only discovered it when we Goggled Nightowl to see who is talking about us, but our old sound engineer is a member here and loves it and he filled me in.

Also, I would be happy to ship you a sample any time, I think you would be impressed.

Thanks again,

Scott Matarrese, Owner,
Nghtowl Stage Lighting
 
Scott

In your reply, you said:

Hello,

We have one big customer that did not use a proper power source and cooked his power supplies (using a standard breaker is a no no for ANY LED unswitched stage light.

We replaced them all at our cost with free shipping and helped him spec out a proper dry relay switching system to control the power to the lights and gave him a good discount on that.

I have never heard that providing power to an led fixture using a 'standard breaker'. ( assuming you mean a circuit breaker) can cause any issue ( other than breakers are not meant for frequent switching on and off ). Can you clarify please?
 
Scott

In your reply, you said:



I have never heard that providing power to an led fixture using a 'standard breaker'. ( assuming you mean a circuit breaker) can cause any issue ( other than breakers are not meant for frequent switching on and off ). Can you clarify please?

Hello,

A LOT of people are unaware of this huge issue. That 20-50K lifetime means nothing if you are putting a surge to the light every time its powered on.

ETC states for their ColorSource LED Par:

Consult breaker trip curves when used with other equipment.
Requires power from a non-dimmable source
• Inrush (Maximum)
-- 120V: 35A (First half-cycle)
-- 240V: 49A (First half-cycle)

Easy to miss actually.

They recommend their own solutions, their R20 relay module or Unison® Echo Relay Panel. We recommend the Leprecon Watson for smaller installations or the new VX2400 12 Channel Pack with Dry Relay modules in the place of dimmer modules. The nice thing about the Leprecon is that you can mix and match relay and dimmer modules, say 6 of each. This not only allows safe on/off switching, also you can do it via DMX with all these products. Perfect for permanent and touring applications.

The designer at our factory agrees that these are good numbers to go by for all unswitched LED stagelights. If the inrush is consistently higher, you are literally risking the life of your light. That too-high inrush can make it as far as the LEDs, and that's bad.

If someone can't afford the pro stuff, a simple $150 20 amp ETA rack mount power conditioner works pretty good, better than nothing. Even a high quality power strip is better than nothing, especially since they come with insurance. The key is YOU GOTTA DO SOMETHING.

Think about it, you have your pars on, and a car takes out a power pole and the lines cross, if that doesn't get you when they turn the power back on and you have an open circuit with no surge protection, you have a problem.

After this, the lack of a DMX Opto Isolator is the second most common external cause of a LED par failure in our experience, more than getting wet or dropped.

I hope that answers your question, this is an important topic.

Thanks

Scott
 
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This is such a red herring.

Yes, inrush currents can be high as the capacitors in the power supply charge. No, it's got nothing to do with what sort of breaker is used in the path that provides the power.

The fixture pulls power. The breaker does not push it. The power supply is pretty much a dead short early in the first half-cycle so while there would be less stress if the source switches on at a zero crossing, as many well-designed relays do, it's wrong to conclude that changing the breaker will change the inrush current in any meaningful way.
 
This is such a red herring.

Yes, inrush currents can be high as the capacitors in the power supply charge. No, it's got nothing to do with what sort of breaker is used in the path that provides the power.

The fixture pulls power. The breaker does not push it. The power supply is pretty much a dead short early in the first half-cycle so while there would be less stress if the source switches on at a zero crossing, as many well-designed relays do, it's wrong to conclude that changing the breaker will change the inrush current in any meaningful way.

Hello,

I am not sure what you are getting at. I did not talk about changing breakers or what sort of breaker. When you switch a breaker on, there is a surge, this is a fact. I never said the breaker pushes power, I don't even know what that means. I talked about putting a dry relay in between a breaker or disconnect and the lights just as every manufacturer recommends. Not doing this can affect warranty and does affect lifespan.

There are actually high quality breakers that limit surges, but you don't find them in performance venues normally.

Thanks,

Scott
 
This tangent that this thread has taking is talking about what can happen when a breaker is used as a switch, is that correct? Is there a difference in what is being said happens when a) the unit is connected to power with the breaker off and then the breaker is turned on, or b) the breaker is on and then the unit is plugged into power? In either case, the unit is suddenly seeing/pulling power. Is there a difference? How does the dry relay change things? I'm nearing the end of a long day (mentally) and feel like I may be missing or forgetting something I should know and need refreshed on.
 
Hello,

I am not sure what you are getting at. I did not talk about changing breakers or what sort of breaker. When you switch a breaker on, there is a surge, this is a fact. I never said the breaker pushes power, I don't even know what that means. I talked about putting a dry relay in between a breaker or disconnect and the lights just as every manufacturer recommends. Not doing this can affect warranty and does affect lifespan.

There are actually high quality breakers that limit surges, but you don't find them in performance venues normally.

Thanks,

Scott
It is also a fact that a dry relay is nothing more than a switch. How a switch limits surge current any more than a breaker does makes no sense. The fact a breaker will trip when subjected to overcurrent and a dry relay cannot also says something. The only mitigating point is that most breakers are not designed to be used as switches, therefore some type of DMX-controlled relay is a better and more convenient solution to controlling LED fixture power. It has nothing to do with surge.
 
It is also a fact that a dry relay is nothing more than a switch. How a switch limits surge current any more than a breaker does makes no sense. The fact a breaker will trip when subjected to overcurrent and a dry relay cannot also says something. The only mitigating point is that most breakers are not designed to be used as switches, therefore some type of DMX-controlled relay is a better and more convenient solution to controlling LED fixture power. It has nothing to do with surge.
That makes sense and is at least part of what I was trying to get at.
 
This tangent that this thread has taking is talking about what can happen when a breaker is used as a switch, is that correct? Is there a difference in what is being said happens when a) the unit is connected to power with the breaker off and then the breaker is turned on, or b) the breaker is on and then the unit is plugged into power? In either case, the unit is suddenly seeing/pulling power. Is there a difference? How does the dry relay change things? I'm nearing the end of a long day (mentally) and feel like I may be missing or forgetting something I should know and need refreshed on.

Me too, the maybe the implied missing key here is that all these ETC and Leprecon units combine a dry relay, the only acceptable type of switch for LED pars, and surge protection to limit the inrush to an acceptable level. Plugging an LED Par into a hot circuit is never recommended, and a non surge protected anything, breaker, wall switch, fusebox, whatever, is highly discouraged by manufacturers, including us.

Thanks,

Scott
 
I am not sure what you are getting at. I did not talk about changing breakers or what sort of breaker. When you switch a breaker on, there is a surge, this is a fact. I never said the breaker pushes power, I don't even know what that means. I talked about putting a dry relay in between a breaker or disconnect and the lights just as every manufacturer recommends. Not doing this can affect warranty and does affect lifespan.

There are actually high quality breakers that limit surges, but you don't find them in performance venues normally.
Scott

You seem to be confused about what inrush is or what one should do about it. Inrush is something caused by the power supply in the fixture--it's not something that happens to the fixture. If the fixture is somehow being damaged by its own inrush, then there's something seriously wrong with the design of the fixture.

Adding a relay before the fixture does nothing to reduce inrush unless the relay intentionally switches right at the AC zero-crossing. ETC's products don't (in general*) do this, and that's not what the documentation is saying. What it actually says is that the breakers used in those devices won't nuisance-trip due to inrush as long as you use fewer than the specified number of fixtures. Nothing in any of the ETC datasheets says you need a relay in the circuit and I've never seen that suggestion in any other manufacturer's documentation. That's because there's no difference between switching a relay, switching a breaker, or switching a regular old light switch.

Perhaps the customer with the fried power supplies mistakenly connected them to a dimmer rather than a relay?


(*I know the panel products will switch at any point in the AC cycle, but I have a vague memory that the CS Relay might switch at the zero-cross... don't see anything in the datasheet to back that up, though.)
 
It is also a fact that a dry relay is nothing more than a switch. How a switch limits surge current any more than a breaker does makes no sense. The fact a breaker will trip when subjected to overcurrent and a dry relay cannot also says something. The only mitigating point is that most breakers are not designed to be used as switches, therefore some type of DMX-controlled relay is a better and more convenient solution to controlling LED fixture power. It has nothing to do with surge.

Hello,

The DMX relays we are talking about have surge protection to limit the inrush. That's the whole point. Dry relays are the only switching mechanism recommended for switching pars on and off, surge protection is a must, sorry I thought I made that clear. All the ETC and Leprecon devices mentioned are at there core surge protectors. The key is if you use anything other than a dry relay surge protector, it is not sufficient, and risky.

Thanks,

Scott
 
Seems to be two rather different thoughts here. Let's try turning on the @STEVETERRY signal. Hopefully he will step in and set things straight. Then we could get back to the original topic of the thread.
 
You seem to be confused about what inrush is or what one should do about it. Inrush is something caused by the power supply in the fixture--it's not something that happens to the fixture. If the fixture is somehow being damaged by its own inrush, then there's something seriously wrong with the design of the fixture.

Adding a relay before the fixture does nothing to reduce inrush unless the relay intentionally switches right at the AC zero-crossing. ETC's products don't (in general*) do this, and that's not what the documentation is saying. What it actually says is that the breakers used in those devices won't nuisance-trip due to inrush as long as you use fewer than the specified number of fixtures. Nothing in any of the ETC datasheets says you need a relay in the circuit and I've never seen that suggestion in any other manufacturer's documentation. That's because there's no difference between switching a relay, switching a breaker, or switching a regular old light switch.

Perhaps the customer with the fried power supplies mistakenly connected them to a dimmer rather than a relay?


(*I know the panel products will switch at any point in the AC cycle, but I have a vague memory that the CS Relay might switch at the zero-cross... don't see anything in the datasheet to back that up, though.)

No, not confused at all. What I am telling you is per Leprecon. We know for a fact that when you have a non surge protected power source that is switched on, the initial inrush TO THE POWER SUPPLY can be over the pars ability to handle. I think what you are missing is that the ETC and Leprecon units are surge protectors. If what you are saying were true, Leprecon and ETC would not recommend a controllable surge protected power source using a dry relay.
 
Me too, the maybe the implied missing key here is that all these ETC and Leprecon units combine a dry relay, the only acceptable type of switch for LED pars, and surge protection to limit the inrush to an acceptable level. Plugging an LED Par into a hot circuit is never recommended, and a non surge protected anything, breaker, wall switch, fusebox, whatever, is highly discouraged by manufacturers, including us.

Thanks,

Scott

My reading of Leprecon's Watson brochure (http://www.leprecon.com/productfiles/280374Bwatson_.pdf) is that it offers surge protection only because it switches off the power via dry contact when the fixture is not in use because the DMX has stopped. It says nothing about surge protection when the fixtures are actually connected to the power line.
 
No, not confused at all. What I am telling you is per Leprecon. We know for a fact that when you have a non surge protected power source that is switched on, the initial inrush TO THE POWER SUPPLY can be over the pars ability to handle. I think what you are missing is that the ETC and Leprecon units are surge protectors. If what you are saying were true, Leprecon and ETC would not recommend a controllable surge protected power source using a dry relay.

There's a problem with your argument: ETC does not make any such recommendation in any of their documentation and their relay products definitely do not include surge suppression. Hopefully Steve Terry (or someone else from ETC) can jump in and confirm this...

Again, inrush is not something that happens to the fixture and it's not actually a voltage spike. Instead, it's a large amount of current drawn by the fixture for a very brief period of time as capacitors in the fixture's power supply are getting their initial charge. This is something the fixture is doing regardless of how it's getting power (relay, switch, manual plugging-in, breaker, whatever), and it shouldn't be harmful to itself unless there is something really wrong with the design of the fixture.

If you're telling me that plugging one of your fixtures into a regular outlet with constant power is likely to damage the fixture, then I'm definitely never going to buy any of your products. That's absurd.
 
My reading of Leprecon's Watson brochure (http://www.leprecon.com/productfiles/280374Bwatson_.pdf) is that it offers surge protection only because it switches off the power via dry contact when the fixture is not in use because the DMX has stopped. It says nothing about surge protection when the fixtures are actually connected to the power line.
The other poster is correct just a dry relay will do nothing to protect a device. If you just want relays you can get a 4 channel relay pack for 99 bucks
 

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