NSI/Leviton DDS-6000-20 question

jack63ss

Member
So ... I have two DDS-6000-20 dimmer backs, each with a broken channel PC board. I am HOPING I can swap the channel boards around and come out with one working dimmer. However, I have a couple of questions about component compatibility.

First, the channel boards are different PC numbers. One dimmer is a 1996 Leviton and has TWO PCB-00037-0 Rev "C" channel boards. The other is a 2004 Leviton and has ONE PCA-00037-0 Rev "D" and ONE PCB-00037-0 Rev "D" channel boards. So, can I use a 1996 PCB-00037-0 Rev C board and a 2004 PCA-00037-0 Rev D board with the rest of the components in the one of the dimmers ?

Second, the 2004 dimmer is Multiplex and the 1994 dimmer is DMX. I would prefer rebuild this as a DMX dimmer, but I have a use for it either way. Can I just wire the channel boards to the 1996 dimmer with the DMX control board and make it work ?

If there are details I missed please let me know.
Thanks
Jack
 
Those shoe box dimmers usually fail at the Triac. They're easy to solder and cheap to replace. You might look at that and see if you could get both back for just a few bucks in components.

If that didn't work and I was the technician working on this I would just plug the boards in and see if they play nice, but that advice is obviously less helpful.....
 
Tom and Brett
Thanks for the responses. I sent an email to FullCompass with the details, as the dimmer on that page is the same part number as one of mine. We will see. As for the failures, I attached a picture of the two broken boards. Way beyond it being the Triac.

IMG_1216_001.jpg


If I don't get a reply soon I will follow Brett's suggestion and just plug it in. What is the worst that could happen, I could have more boards that look like the top one above.
Thanks again,
Jack
 
The DDS packs ran notoriously hot with undersized heatsinks. The triacs were also a little undersized and did not handle large lamps going Nova well (PAR 500, FELs, ETC...) The amount of char on the top on is not recoverable. You've lost your electrical traces. Older models had problems with the neutral being undersized and the ground corroding. The Leviton team use to stock piece parks, they may still. It is worth giving them a call.

The bottom board looks like it could just be a triac thats' gone kaput. It be worth trying to plug-and-play and see what happens.

The model difference (36 VS 37) is most likely Multiplex vs DMX. The Rev C or D is most likely due to some small change in one of the components. It could be as small as a new supplier for a triac or an upsized resistor.
 
The first board is just that, one of my "helpers" plugged too much into that side of the pack and created a full-on flaming special effect (I am very careful about checking their work now). The second one was my bad, I dropped the pack on the corner the board was on and the fuse holders broke off. And unfortunately they way it is made you can not just solder them back on.
As for the board part number, they are both actually all 37, the only difference is C vs D. Tech Support at FullCompass gave me a pointer to the Leviton Corporate Technical Support team, which I had been unable to find. I send them a message, and hopefully they will respond. I am trying very hard not to power the pack on until I get an answer or absolutely run out of options.
Thanks again, and I will post the final outcome.
Jack
 
You could unsolder the fuse holders from your blown up board and replace the broken off ones if they are still in good shape. Full Compass has the replacement ones as part# HD400-N01-060. Looks like Mouser has them as well, part # 504-BK/HBH-I-R.
 

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