Vintage Lighting Ok. Onto the 15" dia. Major/Century Cannon Leko

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Need to get the cannon out of the garage - takes up too much floor space & might bring home another (the 6" lens version) this or next week. Imagine, a 15" body taking a Westinghouse 2Kw incandescent T-32 lamp in a fixture slotted down to a 6" lens size.... Next on my wish list from the theater, & sitting in a hallway I need to remove before it goes into the trash by accident.

(Yea, I know it’s asbestos inside the lamp cap... a process for disposal in place and the whips outside the fixtures long gone before taking them home. Another system for inside the cap once home safely.)

Research Questions:
I know at some point probably early 70's Hub bought some old castings for the Altman 360 radial series Leko’s. Believe from memory, the 360Q came out in 1974. You can tell by the scrap material left in / blocking the vent holes on the Hub radial Leko’s that given all other than paint, parts are similar.... Hub was using old warn out Altman castings. This was an upgrade 10+ years out of date from what Hub was selling as new in being new upgrade to what they were selling as per new. Was seemingly an improvement over what Hub was selling as new from Century - 20-30++ years out of date fixtures for the most part.. Note in the say early 1960's Hub catalogue, they are still selling the original 1936 Century 1st’ generation Leko, much less what I believe to be the c.1938-41 2nd version.. Later a Hub #8768. Really, all steel bent & welded reflector housing in the days of cast or spun aluminum fixtures by that time & selling as new? Very heavy fixture - I think second generation Leko set the stage for all modern Leko’s. Don’t know it’s actual date and only has Century period knobs / 1948 still in use such knobs to say it’s an early Century.

Research Questions:
Was recently working on some Major/Century Leko’s that all Major changed was the Major marked yoke knobs - still Century stamped into the body and even a Century/Strand sticker on them... Removed mostly not well, burnt into the casting shells. Date is? They were still P-28s - so before Century/Strand upgrade this design to #2321 medium Bi-Pin - probably right after Century got bought out?

Took on the big cannon Leko of 15" body size with a 8" step lens today. (Got lots more coming, including one of 15" body with a 6" lens.) This one is iris only version - no shutters so wrong part number mentioned before. (Darned... Just put my Century and Major catalogues back up in the attic.)

Fascinating 1/4 turn lamp cap thumb screws mounted to some hex aluminum standoffs. Never seen this before. That took some thought. Not a huge amount of support for the lamp cap, but having a pentium plate for the support of the three screw mounted lamp socket. Guess that’s considered quick adjustment - bend the bench focus from the lamp cap in bending the fixture mounts forward or backwards up/down in quick adjust... Will have to open up more fixtures before I know if this is the norm. Certainly an improvement to the c.1948 Century cannons I already have for bench focus.

Grounded - says either paid extra or later 60's to me. Or given Major not Century... into the 70's?

Has a Major name plate to it on the lens train - Major fixture.... Until one looks inside the lens train. The name plate of Major is mounted above the Century stamp on the lens train top hat. Good job of hiding who made the fixture. Paint so thick, almost can’t see the rivets, they are almost flush pounded so as not to obstruct the lens train focusing. Interesting fixture so far.

Research Questions:
I also know Hub at some point bought Major... Century was bought out by Strand etc. What’s the story on all these re-branded fixtures and histories having Century designed Leko’s & when did Hub buy out Major? This much less, did Major buy out Chicago Stage Lighting back in the 20's?

Research Questions:
Need to get the various catalogues out of the attic and the book on him/the company. What was the title of the book which might be relevent?
 

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Fixture looks really good so far - cleaning up like new. Step lens in a dish washer is completely the way to go in cleaning.

Iris is completely blown thru due to bad bench focus and lack of maintenance.,. It's a 8" iris I have seen before from around 1910, but not this 50's version. Doubt I have parts. Would ask for parts, but more Leko's at the theater that might have parts, Leko's will all come out of the theater at some point. Otherwise given the fixture will never be used again, and iris leaves mostly pounded flat - what's left of them.. I will mix salid in coming up with a viable iris once cleaned.
 

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Don't mix the salid with an iris! I not just mixed good/bad leafs every other one, and in this case without a squared off side, I mixed end for end for competely rantomizing bad verses semi-bad leafs.. (No parts to replace in stock.)

Sounds good as a theory, but does not work for function. Number your leafs and replace in order, or otherwise even if as flattened as you can get it... the iris mechanism will not slide as well as it was trained to work. This possibly a concept even if replacing leafs but TBA in experiment.

As I cleaned the decent and bad iris leafs, two brass rivets gave way. Sucks... I have replaced them in the past though - can be done. Had in stock a pound rivet ofthe proper size from a past project, just too long - that was a good thing..

Photos's tell the story best
 

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Don't use the 1/2" standoff for supporting the pound rivet, unless more oversized - or once you pound that rivet... you cannot get it off short of grinding.

Cordless drill was quick and easy as opposed to drill press or laith in making the recessed part. Used silicone abrasive fiber wheel on the grinder to; once the brass rivet was pounded, finish off it's finish almost flush height, than the dremmel cutoff wheel with a 1/8" spacer to set it's length. Same grinder to finish it off.
 

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I dislike re-surfacing a Iris & re-assembling them. Very difficult & easy to send one a flying bent up and not repairable during resurface, and no good easy way to re-assemble the leafs. Can be done though. Takes patience & time.

Again, in my R&D this past weekend in mixing up the leafs both in their location and direction in this case... It didn't work out well. Number the leafs and re-install them how they were trained.

Also though, a broken brass pound rived doesn't have to mean the end of a shutter leaf. Difficult to replace, and will never work as well, but can be done. (Save your good replaced iris shutter leafs from bad assemblies for replacements on other fixtures. I do... just have never seen a 8" Iris from the 50's before.)


Lamp socket tonight was in fairly good shape. Another difference between the Major and Century fixture is the Century fixture was using flat head screws recessed into the lamp cap for bench focus mounting. Major used truss head screws in possibly larger 10-32 size for this purpose for some un-known reason. This also a truss head screw on the normally round head lock down screw. Similar concept in bench focus to a Altman 360Q, except the lock down screw no prevents a socket or nut driver to tension the lock down nut. In this fixture, paintaining on the concave holes indicates no flat head screw was ever installed in them. They are there, just never used.

Replaced the asbestos medium pressed insulator pads to the G-38 lamp base with hard pressed ceramic fiber pads. Seen such asbestos pad insulators in use before many times, and if hard pressed - I normally just paint to seal them. In this case the insulator pads were not pressed solid and needed to be replaced. Lamp base contacts were in remarkably good shape (light re-surfacing and replacement of bolts... what is it with the slotted truss head screws for this fixture?. Bad bench focus toasting the iris must have taken this fixture out early in it's usage in preserving other parts. (It was found in a storage room balcany stage right.)

Almost finished the fixture - re-tap the bolts, resurface and coat the heads of them. Drill out one of the the three individual heyco cord grips to the asbestos wire (bag the wire with the insulators and other asbestos wiring from other projects for later proper and expensive disposal.)

TNC K-Fiber 12/3 Fiberglass Insulated FEP 600v / 200c #8N-1203, 7-Strand, Black SLL Rubber Insulated, K2-Fiber Jacket. Cable whip chosen with a 1/2" NPT two screw NMT cord grip - as appropriate and in stock saved from a delisted fixture to wire the lamp cap. It's colors are Black, Red, Blue - but as long as you color and desinate on both ends, good to use. Cable is not as flexible, but it's a museum piece and not touring. Drilled out one of the small Heco cord grip holes for this.

Focus bolts resurfaced and tapped, lamp cap re-surfaced etc. Assembling... crap, I cut the wiring too short for one direction of mounting the lamp cap - but not the way it was assembled. Need to cut off 2" of outer jacket and make the cord whip shorter. All good, went well - above cable not easy to strip or cut... Diagional Side Cutting Pliers slipped and cut a few layears of sking out of my hand. Not deep... quickly put "New Skin" on it in thinking super glue debate. Gaff tape over it. Continue work.

Bit of blood on the cable... stop, re-examine... still bleeding. Clean off, wash, more Liquid Skin and wait this time in air dry... Air compressor hose and sprayer light in volume... come on dry up.... Don't even hurt, just a few layers of skin. Going to be done with this light tonight. Ah' ratt's time to read books to my Daughter in reading her to bed... Chapter 10 of "Tom Sawyer Detective" from 1942. Cut finally clotted, was looking towards getting onto the c.1925 Prever tonight... but no. Getting a few layers of skin removed in not hurting but bleeding to much to work in it dripping on what worked on sucks in having to wait for it to clot.
 
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Irises really are magical, aren't they?
 
Irises really are magical, aren't they?
Magical in how the heck do people assemble them without going insane. Put one in, another pops up somewhere.. etc. And than they move from their slots as you bolt them... Iris Bastards!

But at least I have figured out replacing the broken brass pins - not worth it in man/hours to do so... but can be done.
 
For me, opening up an iris and screwing around with leaves usually ends up in frustration. I did, not too long ago, flatten out some leaves in an iris with a hammer and a flat round surface. I did not open it up. It operates and looks better than how it was previously but not quite as good as new.

I have bled into something I was repairing. Many times I haven't noticed until I see something red on what I was working on. And, occasionally, it's hard to stop in the middle of something.

I remember, in the distant past, focusing 8" stepped-lens lekos. I don't remember it as being particularly pleasant. It always seemed hard to get a flat field. Fixtures with axial reflectors did better when they arrived.
 
For me, opening up an iris and screwing around with leaves usually ends up in frustration. I did, not too long ago, flatten out some leaves in an iris with a hammer and a flat round surface. I did not open it up. It operates and looks better than how it was previously but not quite as good as new.

I have bled into something I was repairing. Many times I haven't noticed until I see something red on what I was working on. And, occasionally, it's hard to stop in the middle of something.

I remember, in the distant past, focusing 8" stepped-lens lekos. I don't remember it as being particularly pleasant. It always seemed hard to get a flat field. Fixtures with axial reflectors did better when they arrived.
@Mac Hosehead Quoting you: "occasionally, it's hard to stop in the middle of something".
Stop bleeding or stop working?
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard
 
Left hand cut, right handed so... stopped working once it became evident working while waiting to clot was not working. Web surfed instead as the mouse is on the right allowing left to dry/clot. Funny thing, today I was doing something bad for me - blocking wind with the left hand while using a lighter. All in a sudden the palm of my hand got burnt from it! Oh, Oh' Ouch... Who knew dried Liquid Skin was flammable... Once burnt Liquid Skin pulled off... just a slight surface wound and don't even feel the cut the rest of the day, but took the night off from finishing the light anyway for time to heal a day.

Luckily this one will only be a museum piece. I normally have flat fields with most lens train radials I work on for museum or donation - but don't normally bother bench focusing step lensed radials for the museum. (Bench focus the radial lens train leko's until I get board of this - they are donation... bench your own lights.) There is a 6" step lens version tba to get... Imagine this same 15" cannon of a light and only a 6" lens on it. Will see it tomorrow and perhaps take it home.

Iris's such as "modern style" used on Altman's, I take apart and grin and bare them. I have a jig for re-surfacing them, and enough of a stockpile of good leafs, that's woth while to make a new assembly of them. Strong Followspots, given the pound rivets holding them together in one version, once in a while I'll tinker with them, but often just steel whool, or Scotch brite pad with them before re-coating- they don't re-assemble well. Iris is a necessary but semi-despised adventure. Funny, the pre-1928 Iris is normally in finding in good shape and easy to work on.

A note thought about today. Carbon arc PC fixtures were dubble wall in heat sinks. Incandescent lamp PC fixtures, even if a 1Kw lamp.... didn't need a double wall heat sink/housing to them. So a way as if antique fixture collector for the old PC fixtrues.... if it has a dual wall of sheet metal between the lamp and yoke - it is probably pre-1916 in dating. We are talking a full inner wall from base bend to housing bend of a second sheet metal insulator.
 
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