Old 360Q's

[church]

Dereklefflew you asked about replacing the spring catch on Strand Century Lekos here is what I have done in the past.

I have only had to do this once when one broke and I could not get a spare. My solution was to get a "flip clamp" that you use on the Aluminium PAR 64 can and retrofit this to the diecast lamp housing. This was done by holding the lamp houseing closed. Placing the closed clamp on the lamp housing so that it crossed the joint. Marking around the outside of the clamp with a sharpie. I then seperated the clamp. Placed the first part of the clamp on the housing using the sharpie marks to align and marked through the two holes onto the housing. I repeated this on the other side of the housing. I then drilled all four holes using the correct drill for the pop rivest. I then used the long pop rivets to attached both parts of the clamp. This works fine on my unit. If you are worried about the strength of the clamp and the weight of the lens barrel then I would use two clamps spaced two inches apart.

If you have a spare original clip from the spring clamp then I will have to go into my garage tonight and have a look at my fixtures to figure it out

hope this helps

 

[derekleffew]

Thanks, church. My question regarding the latch was more hypothetical than anything. I only have one "vintage" Strand-Century 6x12 in my personal collection. It is unique in that the label on one side of the lens barrel was affixed upside down, and , boy did that cause issues with students insisting on hanging the fixture upside down, so the color frame falls out (no "Top Clip" on those units.

Your idea of using a PARcan clip sounds very inventive indeed.


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[church]

Dereklefflew no problem. I have 6 of the strand-century 6*9s in my collection. The lens barrel also fits the Strand Lekos. I took a look at the how the spring clip is installed and here is how you change them. You have to remove the lens barrel and then unscrew the tube from the diecast housing. Now look carefully at the diecast housing and either side of where the spring clip fits into the housing you will see two holes that are only about 1/64 of an inch in diameter. They are alongside the chrome pin that the spring clip is mounted on. These holes are actually the centre of a dowel pin. you can actually tap these out with a small parrel punch. The dowel pins will come out on the inside of the housing. The chrome pin slide out inside. The dowel pins hold the chrome pin in place. Once the chrome pin is removed the spring clip drops out. Replacement - as they say - is the reverse procedure.


I can relate to the problem with the label being on the wrong side causing confusion for students. It also really shortens the life of the EGE lamps.

 

[derekleffew]

I can relate to the problem with the label being on the wrong side causing confusion for students. It also really shortens the life of the EGE lamps.

Mine is an axial unit, and takes EHD, EHF, EHG, or FEL. Lamp orientation is not an issue, but I do object to colorframes and pattern holders falling on my head.

 

[church]

I agree gobos and filter frames falling down are not much fun. I also have the axial Strand Lekos in my collection. As I mentioned the lens tube and barrel are interchangeable with the radial leko. The spring clamp is also the same and installed the same way. Have you tried the GLA or GLC lamp in these fixtures? I have tried one with a GLC alongside one with a FEL and the GLC lamped unit gives a better light output. I am currently running them with the GLA for the lifetime improvement and don't notice the difference to the FEL.

I also sometimes swop the 6*16 lens barrels for the 6*9s from my radial lekos. BTW the hanging bracket, gobo holders, shutters and focal plates are also interchangeable between these units. I guess parts bin engineering is not unique to the auto industry. But if it works why not make use of it. It also provides a cheap way of finding spares because the radial lekos are usually given away whereas the axial leko still sells for $.