opening a flat (door) 180deg automated

[Crisp image]

Hi Brains Trust.
I am up to my new build and it calls for a panel (front of a building to open out 180deg to revel the interior.
I would like to do this mechanically but am a little unsure how to do it.
Options include motor and chain cogs (low voltage and using a motor controller) motor with small cog and door with larger cog to give mechanical advantage or using actuators to make the door move. It would require 2 for it to open 180 deg as one would only allow a 90 deg turn.
The doors will be either 3 ft or 6 ft wide and 8ft tall. it could be supported on the moving end with a caster. Materials would be 3x1.5 in frame and a covering of 1/8 MDF so not really heavy.
Has anyone done this in a amateur setting?
Any advice?
Thanks
Crispy.

 

[dbaxter]

A couple of assumptions for what I'm thinking - the 8 ft. height is the top of the wall/set piece that the panel swings over, there is some room behind this panel for an arm extension. So, mount the panel to its hinge point using cafe swinging door hinges (or the like) with the springs disabled. That will give you the 180 swing. Mount an arm to the top of the panel that extends say, 2 ft. wider than the panel. Do your cabling such that you can pull a cord from the end of the arm backstage. As you pull the cord one way or the other, the panel will swing back and forth. You should be able to figure a way to winch the cord with a motor or two to automate it.
I hope you can picture the panel and arm from the description. Sort of like a "T" with one side filled in. Rather than the hinges, you could pin the panel top and bottom depending on your floor and back wall.

 

[RonHebbard]

A couple of assumptions for what I'm thinking - the 8 ft. height is the top of the wall/set piece that the panel swings over, there is some room behind this panel for an arm extension. So, mount the panel to its hinge point using cafe swinging door hinges (or the like) with the springs disabled. That will give you the 180 swing. Mount an arm to the top of the panel that extends say, 2 ft. wider than the panel. Do your cabling such that you can pull a cord from the end of the arm backstage. As you pull the cord one way or the other, the panel will swing back and forth. You should be able to figure a way to winch the cord with a motor or two to automate it.
I hope you can picture the panel and arm from the description. Sort of like a "T" with one side filled in. Rather than the hinges, you could pin the panel top and bottom depending on your floor and back wall.

@dbaxter Wouldn't common "back flap" hinges give him his 180 degrees without cafe style double acting springs to contend with?
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard.

 

[Van]

Will there be no typical door molding on the side to which these door <s> are opening?
Are they opening On stage of Off stage? it affects how the motors are placed and hoe you can hide the gear.

I did a set of auto opening french doors a few years ago but they only had to go 90° on stage. if they have to go 180° on stage with a molding surround you'll need to look into using a cabinet hinge that allows for the door to move away from the face of the flat as it swings open, if you want a true 180°.

 

[dbaxter]

Ron - Sure, if it doesn't matter where the thickness of the panel goes. I was thinking of the cafe hinges so the panel would be on the same plane in both directions. A trip through the Rockler catalog would probably show some special cabinet hinge to do the same thing.

 

[bobgaggle]

Ditch the wheel. If you build the door stiff enough you don't need it and don't have to deal with the hassle of an uneven floor and how to hide it in the framing.

I would also forget hinges. A pivot on the top and bottom will do the trick. Useful because if you mount them to the top rail of the door frame and the floor your screws are in shear rather than tension... Since you want full 180 you'd have to mount them a little proud of the door skin. You can buy them but I've found if you have a welder its much better to make exactly what fits your needs. It also allows you to put your gear on and keep it concentric with your pivot. If you go that route for the automation...

 

[Crisp image]

All good ideas so far. I like the top and bottom pivot idea. If I go with hinges it would be normal run of the mill hinges because it does not matter if the flats stick out a bit from the front.
There is no problem having a stiff framed door because It will be skinned both sides. It was only to off set the counter balance of required. It really should not need it as everything would be mounted on a wagon that is 4ft x 6ft.
If I get something working I will post it up here for comment and refinements. I will most likely get some play time next week at some stage to test some theories.
Regards
Crispy