I'm looking at possibly getting some Altman PAR 38 cans (medium screw base) for a small stage for a coffee house type setting, and am wondering what lamp to use in them. It seems the R lamps are no longer made, or are at least hard to find. I'd prefer to not have the PAR 56/PAR 64 MFL style look with the oval hotspot, and more of a rounded beam fresnel look. Would a PAR38 be a drop in replacement for an R38, or is this pretty much a completely obsolete fixture at this point. A 6" fresnel with a BTL is massive, massive overkill for my needs. A S4 Fresnel with an HPL-375 is probably also in the overkill range.
Conventional Fixtures PAR 38 lamps
- Thread starterBobHealey
- Start date
The traditional lamp is the 250PAR38 in either SP or FL, but it's expensive and I've often found has an uneven beam. The alternative has been a 150 or 300W R40 lamp in SP or FL. These are still available, but more often found in ER40 or BR40 sizes and slightly less wattage for supposedly the same lumen output. You're probably going to have to go with a stage or Internet supplier, as the home centers/big-box stores are all transitioning to CFL and LED sources for these type of lamps.
I was looking at BMI's catalog specifically, and Altman doesn't list R40 for that fixture so I mostly ruled it out. If its similar to the case of an FEL in a 360Q, it would work. I could go look and see if there's something in fresnel land between 100W inky and 500W 6" PAR might work, its going to be a really tiny stage. This is my first time designing a space and designing at this scale as opposed to designing in a space (where someone else has decided the inventory).
First off, great choice on Altman PAR 38's, they shall last FAR longer than generic China PAR 38'd.
R lamps are still manufactured, however, they have largely been replaced by the more efficient BR lamp. Point is they are still available for your application. I'd be looking at R40/BR40 lamps. Here is an example of the many options available. BR40 & R40 : Light Bulbs at Bulbman..
Avoid BR38 lamps like the plague. They pretend to be PAR lamps, but they're not. They have a lighter envelope than PAR lamps, and the worst beam of any R, BR, ER or PAR lamp.
If one looks at the PDF for the Altman PAR 38 on their website, the manufacturer's suggested lamps table includes PAR, BR and R lamps. The fixture is rated for up to 300 watts so as long is that isn't exceeded it should be ok.
If you do go the PAR 38 route, a bit of diffusion can really help soften the beam.
R lamps are still manufactured, however, they have largely been replaced by the more efficient BR lamp. Point is they are still available for your application. I'd be looking at R40/BR40 lamps. Here is an example of the many options available. BR40 & R40 : Light Bulbs at Bulbman..
Avoid BR38 lamps like the plague. They pretend to be PAR lamps, but they're not. They have a lighter envelope than PAR lamps, and the worst beam of any R, BR, ER or PAR lamp.
If one looks at the PDF for the Altman PAR 38 on their website, the manufacturer's suggested lamps table includes PAR, BR and R lamps. The fixture is rated for up to 300 watts so as long is that isn't exceeded it should be ok.
If you do go the PAR 38 route, a bit of diffusion can really help soften the beam.
Its some things to think about. I've also thought about the LED route. The space wants me to give them a recommendation for how many 20A outlets they should have installed for lighting when the electrician comes to pull power. This is for a small stage in a small room, so only going to have 3-9 fixtures max.
90w-120w halogen PAR 38 lamp has long been been the very good replacement for the 150w Watt Incancescent lamps. 100w Mostly does so, but 90w is more commonly used.
BR/ER/R crap aside, you can even still get not needed 150w PAR 38 lamps now when more efficient such as very long life or diechric versions as available still.
As a fixture type, many of us in the industry in a small room have made magic with in help by a PAR 38 can. Can replace with other stuff like a PAR 46 if short snout more inkies, but not commercially available. PAR 38 still has a slot in short throw use I think and the 90 thru 100w halogen flood versions would be best.
Gonna take another ten years before people like me and tons of others begin to loose the minds eye image of what an incandescent 150w PAR 38 flood looks like in use. Was so a base of design standard that it was a basic concept standard for design that everyone could see a mental picture for. Sorry, but if useful I have just short of two cases left of them.
To those that are not used to the 150PAR38FL, not a problem I suspect. For those that are used to it, the above at 250w, or under it at 90v would tend to lead to 100 or 120w.
Less a question about a missed lamp in lots more efficient options now, than a question of forced to change and perhaps too many options to choose from as the real problem forced into.
BR/ER/R crap aside, you can even still get not needed 150w PAR 38 lamps now when more efficient such as very long life or diechric versions as available still.
As a fixture type, many of us in the industry in a small room have made magic with in help by a PAR 38 can. Can replace with other stuff like a PAR 46 if short snout more inkies, but not commercially available. PAR 38 still has a slot in short throw use I think and the 90 thru 100w halogen flood versions would be best.
Gonna take another ten years before people like me and tons of others begin to loose the minds eye image of what an incandescent 150w PAR 38 flood looks like in use. Was so a base of design standard that it was a basic concept standard for design that everyone could see a mental picture for. Sorry, but if useful I have just short of two cases left of them.
To those that are not used to the 150PAR38FL, not a problem I suspect. For those that are used to it, the above at 250w, or under it at 90v would tend to lead to 100 or 120w.
Less a question about a missed lamp in lots more efficient options now, than a question of forced to change and perhaps too many options to choose from as the real problem forced into.
Going to be using dimmers such as Leprecon ULD-360s. So it comes down to 1-4 NEMA 5-15 outlets. They want to be able to put the stage in 1 of 3 corners. I'm figuring out probable lighting loads so I can justify having 1-12 outlets installed depending on distances, building power feed, and opposition to central dimming with multicable run as needed.
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